Noz

The trick is to both undo & retighten all the CAS bolts with the engine running. Level 5 skillZ.

Hahaha, yeah it is! Wondered what was going on there for a moment dude :pint: No, you're right. The quoted figures (compressor maps) will be regardless of external setup or application, and are based on the aerodynamics of the blades (size, trim, etc). Back in the day I've read of people stating the stock turbos were simply blowing hot air after 1 bar. Maintaining boost in a Zed is the trick to decent power. I was able to hold 1.4 bar on my auto turbos to the redline, and that was with standard manifolds & elbows.

Ah, of course. Just been through the spec sheet again, my mistake :D

No matey, I have no inclination to get into a pissing contest about basic mathematics. Surprised you can be bothered to pull me up on something so trivial :huh: One thing, though. 21psi is precisely 1.447899408 bar. Closer to 1.4 bar actually, if you wish to be anal :laugh: The point I was alluding to is that the attainable boost pressure at the business end in a 300zx TT is dependent on the setup. The only reason people think/thought that XYZ turbo tails off and is therefore unable to sustain boost is actually due to the massive restriction in the stock setup. Remove the intake piping & MAF, construct a modified intercooler and keep the charge piping as short as possible. Only then will you get a better understanding of what XYZ turbo is really capable of delivering to the intake manifold in a Zed engine bay. Aside: As a controlled experiment on the dyno, I ran a pair of GTX2680 turbos with the actuator reference lines disconnected in a drifty Zed. 1.8 bar at the intake was all that they could produce with the supplied actuators and a single intake. The car was over 600bhp anyway, so it wasn't all doom & gloom!

I did. Read back through. Crossed wires. I'm not discussing cooling efficiency or thermodynamics here. I'm simply stating that the fan shroud isn't required due to empirical findings. Every Zed I have worked with I have been monitoring temps in a "hot idle scenario". It doesn't matter if the shroud is fitted or not. And when I say "monitoring temps", I don't mean checking to see if the needle moves, I mean fully monitoring sensor outputs via Nistune. Regardless of what should be and will be happening regarding airflow, the reality is that the fan shroud doesn't need to be fitted. It's as simple as that.

No, we're talking about log files & empirical data. If running a shroud was required, I would have had mine fitted and suggest people do the same. It made no discernible difference to the temps at idle, so as far as I have seen on countless Zeds on both the dyno and the road, at standstill and at 145mph after a top speed run at TOTB, it doesn't matter if the shroud is fitted or not :) The reference to the intake pipework lengths of a WRX and a Zed was totally unrelated to the efficiency of the fan shroud on a Zed, though :confused1:

21psi is only 1.4 bar, even standard turbos are good for a peak of 1.7 bar if the system can support it (I posted Garrett's compressor maps for the TB22 on the forum ages ago, and ran this figure myself for about a year on the original 115k auto turbos to achieve 482lb·ft @ 3900rpm). GTX turbos don't start doing what they're built to be doing until 30psi/2 bar, generally-speaking. Any less than that and you've just spent a lot of money for no real benefit over regular ball-bearing units :)

Hi Vig. I've got your turbos down as 530bb items. Nothing to say that boost was reduced on the 21/09/2014, no reason why it would have been altered it to be honest :)

After the unbelievable clusterf**ck regarding my own Zed last year, I should hopefully be starting things afresh next month. The plan, as always, will be to run in TOTB! Hopefully I'll make it this time, 2015 was the first time I didn't attend in 4 years :headvswal

Indeed, a fan shroud has no real bearing on the coolant temps. My own car idled at 81° regardless if the shroud was fitted or not, and with an FMIC fitted.... or not. Regarding BOVs, it's a simple concept. The 300ZX TT has an inordinate amount of intake piping between MAF exit and throttle intake, plus long runners to the combustion chamber due to intake design. In short, a huge volume of already-metered air in a closed system. Too much for the combnination of Z32 hot-wire MAF & BOVs. I love BOVs as much as the next guy (I have a GFB RFL fitted to my WRX which has approximately 1/100th of the intake pipework of a Zed) but on the Zed they are simply not suitable. Unless running a blow-through MAF. Which I do. And still I run no pressure relief valves whatsoever.... End of the day, it's a compromise. If you like the sound/aesthetics and want to run them, do. If the correct running of your Zed is more important, don't. Regardless, make sure they aren't leaking on boost, and expect to overfuel a lot at high RPM, low/medium load when they are on the cusp of dumping all that lovely intake air. And keep those revs up when coming to a junction if you set your BOVs to dump the moment they see more than 1psi :laugh:

If there is one car that should never have BOVs fitted whilst still running the standard MAF and intake pipework setup, it is the 300ZX TT.

They need to use the proper equipment & software really. None of what they've told you is something I have ever come across I'm afraid.

Is it permanently in safety mode? If so, it will likely be the loom section for the knock sensor. If it returns to full boost after power cycling the ECU (posh words for turning off & on again), then your knock sensor could be detecting knock, which in turn could be genuine or spurious. What fuel have you been using? Use the highest octane fuel possible in these cars.

I've used UPS for years and they can't be faulted in my opinion.

Hello & welcome :)

:confused1:

How do you mean? An air-fuel (ratio) gauge gives a ratio of air to fuel. A fuel gauge shows how much fuel is left in the tank.

Just buy from a reputable source if you're worried about snides. The only Profec B Spec 2 I have seen fail was new from eBay. The PCB had "TRUST" imprinted on it, but I didn't really check for any other signs one way or another.

They all do the same basic job when set up correctly. The only branded EBCs I suggest people stay away from are Gizzmo ones. I like the GReddy brand in general. I also have a soft spot for the AVCR. It works well as a simple boost controller, but can do a lot more if required. As far as New Profec vs Profec B Spec 2, I don't really have a preference, but I guess the Spec 2 wins because it was part of my 11s MR2 setup, and handled 34psi with aplomb!

I reckon your car had slightly larger injectors, not 555s, but seemingly larger than stock. Something out of the ordinary there. The O2 sensors play no part in the fuelling on boost, only in cruise (light load scenarios). The reason your car was better with lambda feedback enabled (a rare case indeed) was due to the disparity in AFRs between the RHS bank & the LHS bank at low-load. Typically, the RHS bank runs a tad leaner than the LHS bank. Your car was the opposite of this to the point where boost started building and AFRs then tended to the norm (RHS slightly leaner than LHS). I map a lot of cars in open loop, because 300zx O2 feedback is dogsh..... :laugh:

Mapping 101: Disconnect anything that the ECU uses to interfere with your specified fuelling or timing requirements. This means the O2 sensors and the knock sensor, coincidentally 3 sensors (in total) that are woefully unreliable (O2 sensors) or inadequate (knock sensor) on a 25 year old modified (or even standard) 300zx TT. O2 sensors are simply there to create a stoichiometric (complete) combustion process (14.7:1 AFR, pump fuel). This ratio provides less NOx than leaner mixtures, so it is an environmental consideration at the expense of frugality. Catalytic converters, which we all have fitted, as Nissan intended, are designed to run at stoich, as opposed to leaner mixtures. I've not heard the "Nissan did xxxxxx for a reason" argument for quite some time! :biggrin: Their standard map for the Zed is dogshit (proper scientific term). Their lambda fedback system is dogshit. Their exhaust manifold design is dogshit. Their PRVR system is dogshit. Their AIVs are gurgling dogshit. Their coilpack connectors are brittle dogshit. Their injector connectors are corrosion-prone dogshit. Their miles & miles of intake & intercooler pipework is power-sapping dogshit. The VG30DETT is one of the greatest engines ever created, and it has (or, hopefully had) a dogshit reputation because of all the aforementioned dogshit. The RB didn't suffer such dogshit fate, even the standard R32 GTR maps are a performance-oriented smooth work of art.

Set a few up now. It's what I recommend after the Profec B Spec 2. IMO, it's by far the best looking boost controller.

Can't help with your query, but the SAFC2 should be used for monitoring purposes only. Do not use it to alter fuelling, it fudges the signal from the MAF. The signal from the MAF determines not just the fuelling, but also the subsequent timing.

My 3-digit handle from when I started getting into arcade games in the 90s. I used to live in Whitby, as a youngster I chose school, football, biking and arcade games as opposed to truancy, breaking, entering and heroin addiction. There was literally just two paths to take, unless you were a farmer of course.

With regards to the section of my quote you highlighted in BOLD, it is documented in my head from the datalogs that I viewed. The knock resistance properties of different fuels available is relevant to all petrol cars, especially ones such as the Z32 running ECUs without adaptive knock feedback. Hence why I run Momentum99 in all my modified cars (apart from my CRDI, that would just be foolish). If VPower (or any other fuel for that matter) becomes "better" than Momentum99, I will swap to that fuel, and then subsequently recommend that particular one. I would be interested in seeing the idependent testing also.