lymon

This is because the PCV system on the Zed is a not a very good design: The pickup for both valves is taken from the LH exhaust-side rocker cover and as this not the highest point of the engine, oil can get sucked up resulting in smoke and a plenum full of oil. For the LH PCV valve the air/oil has to travel a longer way to get to it and that's probably also the PCV valve that's still very clean on your car. To improve the PCV system, you can add an oil catch can or create a better/higher pickup for the PCV valves, like has been done here (but requires plenum removal): original pickups have been blocked off: new pickup has been made in the tower of the intake rocker covers: and hoses have been routed under the plenum to the PCV valves:

And some fresh high quality ATF :)

shift at will: http://www.ess-racing.com/ excellent product !

John, I'm very impressed with the quality of VIS bonnets and the Techno-R fits like a stock bonnet. The Invader bonnets I have seen had a problem with the bonnet hook being a bit too long and can not be fully closed for that reason, hence the reason some people fit bonnet pins when using that particular bonnet Although I'm not sure if VIS maybe has changed the hooks on these bonnets since recently. Regarding the use of bonnet pins: VIS recommends the use of bonnet pins and not using them is at your own risk. The VIS bonnet hook is made of fiberglass and glued to the bonnet. If the wind is able to get under it with force (under high speed) the hook/glue won't hold very long and the result can be this: http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=general&msg_id=1808131

Small addition to the above..theVIS Techno-R (as I have on my car) is an exact copy of the Border hood. the third VIS CF bonnet is an exact copy of the stock bonnet but in CF -Eric

Yes, got myself a nice VIS Techno-R CF bonnet and some Ultralite TWIN-5 wheels :D >> Anyone got any ideas which other springs are good for Zs? H&R, Strosek

I have the above combo...It's not much lower then stock suspension, but it does feel stiffer (but still comfortable) and frontbumper only hits bumps occasionally. If you want it lower, you need different springs that drop more then the Eibachs.

Stick with stock plugs. http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=74637

it will fit, but you need to grind the bellhousing a bit. http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=general&msg_id=1595122

Found this table for sale on a Dutch ebay-like site: :x:

It's a real PITA to get the clutch system free of air. if the clutch pedal feels very light, there's air in the system and you will have to keep bleeding until the pedal starts feeling firmer.

speed: 145 mph (or 232 kmh) rev limit: 7000 rpm

Have seen this twice. One engine ended up looking like yours is now, the other one was brought in because the engine sounded somewhat like it had a worn bearing, which in fact was a conrod nut that had worked itself loose..

bent valves or piston hitting the valves/cylinderhead

it's possible you have air trapped in the PAS system. it will cause the oil to leak out at the cap (especially once the oil gets hot) and this in turn will trigger the hicas light, because it senses the oil level will be too low once it has spitted out too much oil.

I have them on one of my zeds...great springs when combined with 18 or 19" wheels: when I had 17" wheels they were a bit of a problem because the drop is a bit much and it made the bumper hit about anything that was not level with the road Another minor problem is the front camber will be totally off with these springs, but this can be fixed with adjustable upper arms.

Have you checked/replaced the sparkplugs ?

yes, is the same

unplug the seperate grey connector from the TPS for 5 sec. with the engine running. this should activate the idle control valve. If it doesn't, see if wiggling the connectors that are connected to the IAA make it run different...if that's the case, it's probably a bad/corroded connection on one of more of the connectors.

Might not be the turbo leaking oil.. small signs of oil (drops) on the turbo housing are usually from leaking rocker covers...not from the turbos. a leaking turbo (eg. bad oil feed, cracked CHRA) will usually leak bad and it will gush out loads of oil in most cases.

another trick to get the pulley off when the engine is on a stand and you don't have an airgun: remove 1 sparkplug and set the cylinder at it's lowest point. Now fill the cylinder with a long piece of thick nylon rope (through the sparkplug hole) until the cylinderbore is full/filled with the rope. The engine is now "seized" and you should now be able to loosen the crankpulley bolt when done pull out the rope and put the sparkplug back.

for the stat itself it is not neccessary. you can add a tiny bit of sealant to prevent the thermostat from falling out of it's housing.

if you have help: have someone turn the crank-pulley while you "wiggle" the box into place. if you are alone: use 2 long bolts on the left and right side of the bellhousing (where the small bushings are that need to fall into place with the bellhousing) Tighten both bolts (not too tight) and rotate the crank-pulley, tighten bolts, rotate pulley and keep repeating this until the box slides into place. PS: for both methods it's important the box is level with the engine.

also make sure your battery is charged to the max. turn it over until it starts to build oilpressure (this might take over 2 minutes), otherwise it won't have ANY use at all and you are not priming the turbos/engine with oil.. NB: Try to let the starter cool down after every 30 secs. of turning over.

a manual does approx. 167mph in 5th at 6.5k an automatic does approx. 180 mph in 4th at 6.5k this is with the stock 16" wheels.