lymon

99% of all fuel injected nissans use the exact same temp sensor

disconnect the VTC solenoids (2 plugs, one at the back of engine, one on the side of the engine, near the cruise control actuator) if the sound is gone or a lot less with the solenoids disconnected, it's the vtc springs.

idle: 0.8 bar minimal 3000 rpm: 3.6 bar min...around 4 bar is normal

the speedsensor signal goes directly to the speedo dial and the electronics in the dial convert the signal into a pulse signal which is then send to all ECU's In a lot of cases the cause of non or intermittent working speedo's is caused by tiny cracks in the solder joints on the speedo board. Resoldering the joints solves the problem (in most cases) Also before you start replacing the speed sensor it's best to measure it's signal at the speedo with a multimeter first (signal is an AC voltage)

here's another single, but slightly different approach: Although I won't mention the fact that it probably needs to have the melted timingbelt replaced after every run or so :D

> Nah - rack bushes cheched out OK out of interest , did you check them using the following procedure: Put the car on a lift (4 posts, as it's important the car still sits on it's wheels) And while having a helper turn the steering wheel from side to side, you check from under the car for any movement of the steeringrack. (there shouldn't be any) If the rack moves, be it even very slightly: replace rack bushings.

most likely one or both of the steering rack bushings have gone.

The stock oil cooler system is oil pressure regulated...not temperature. A cold oilcooler after a long journey is not uncommon. It needs approx 4 bar of oil pressure until there's any decent flow through the cooler. Nissan did this, to minimize any further oil pressure drop in case of oil loss or pressure loss. Best way to check if the cooler is functioning, is to check it when the engine is cold. Let the engine idle for a couple of minutes and then feel the cooler...it should be warm/hot. if it isn't it could indicate a oil pressure problem or a problem with the secondary oil pressure regulator, which regulates the flow to the cooler. This sec. pressure regulator can be found on the oilfilter bracket. It's basically a spring, which operates a small valve which opens/closes a small orifice, to allow oil to the cooler. >> having hot running problems (water temperature >80C normal running, rising to 90C+ during idle). between 80 and 85 is normal operating temperature. above 95 is when it's starting to overheat. above 105: turn engine off as soon as possible if the overheating only occurs during idle, it usually indicates a faulty fan clutch or blocked radiator/condensor fins.

>> There are other splicings within the relay box, is taped splicing OEM? I remember reading somewhere that it can be. in this case it isn't they sure did a good job messing up the wiring there ! it could be your AC system is refilled with R134 some time ago. One downside of this stuff is it makes the AC system run hotter and needs better cooling as the stock R12. As a shortcut they sometimes "modify" the aux. fan to be on all the time. see if you can restore the wiring to how it used to be ? Probably solves your fan problem also.

might be a switch/solenoid problem then. best is to follow the procedure as described in the service manual: http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=st&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=31&design=default&total=98

sounds more like a problem with the pump. are you sure the belt isn't slipping ? have enough PS fluid in the reservoir ?

C will work fine in most TT Zeds B is slightly shorter and recommended for cars running uprated boost.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/article_detail.asp?articleid=703

stick with stock ;) PFR6B-11C or PFR6B-11B

Maybe your car suffers from a "budget" speed delimiter, where they've just cut the speeds signal wire on the ecu connector. and..yes, the rpmlimit also depends on the speed signal. there are 2 rpm-limits, one for standing still and one for driving. the one for standing still is normally not changed in most aftermarket chips and left at approx. 5700 rpm. JWT seems to have changed it in some of their chips and both limits are set to the same value.

>> Question: Does anyone know if this would affect mapping or anything ? >> Doesn't the ecu need to know what gear your in (by speed input?), and if so would this affect performance ? it will affect performance, as the ecu uses the speed signal to do some *fine tuning* at different speeds and it's also one of the parameters the ecu uses to determine if the VTC system needs to be used or not. A missing speed signal will also have a great affect on the HICAS, autobox (if you have one) and powersteering.

costs around 1350 EUR (~ 900GBP) from Nissan Europe and around 1000USD from Nissan US. partnr. is 31100-51X02

> anyone got any suggestions? should i try resetting the ecu? if the engine stalls in the idle speed menu or during a powerbalance test, the base idle is set too low. follow the instructions as described in the manual to set the base idle correctly.

>> the bleed nipple on the outside? 350Z & Skyline GTR33/R34 calipers have 2 nipples (both in and outside)

check the linkage and transmission mount Also make sure the shifter linkage bolt is not overtightened

check the TPS voltage and see if the AT kickdown-switch is functioning (with a conzult)

this is a knife-edged crank of a Zed, so that's what it should look like:

spoke to several transmission/drivertrain experts and all say drivetrain loss can not be represented as a static percentage. Drivetrain loss is a static figure and depends on the type of transmission/differential/wheels and number of links/bearings before the power is actually put to the ground. for a Manual Zed (both NA and TT) the loss is approx. 33kW/ 44hp and for a stock TT this would be approx. 15% of the total fwhp, but for a zed that puts out 550 rwhp the percentage loss has dropped to 9%. For a stock NA it's closer to 19%

oops, sorry... should have used a screenshot in the first place ;)

> Can anyon tell me what part 25911-40P11 is for? ** edited ** These are the available partnumbers: 25911-40p10 : TT, MT 25911-40p11 : TT, AT 25911-30p10 : NA, MT 25911-30p12 : NA, AT