siraff

cheers andy. if i dont go for a single it'll be 2 very big ones that'll have to be mounted in a different place anyway (probably higher up and more toward the front) so would they still be better than a single? im not that fussed as long as i can get a huge ammount of boost out of them. the other thing is cost. i can get the T51R for £1300 new but for say 2x T68's im looking over 2k. also, with the one, i only have to have a 3-2-1 exhaust manifold made then the rest is all singular (boost pipes, intercooler, intake manifold, etc) also saves money but importantly in a cramped Z, space. (2x boost pipes, intercoolers, cooler-intake pipes, etc take up more room). i must admit that, at first, i wanted to keep it TT partly to keep the spirit of the engine and i was worried about response, etc. totally agree with you about the longer pipe being bad but where the engine is and how small the car is, you're really limited to turbo choice in the standard mounting place. 20G's make a really fast Z but there are a few VG30's making well over 1000bhp in other applications where turbo space isn't limited. im not after that much (though it'd be nice) but i'd really like to get over 800bhp. oh, and im on about wheel power, not BS power. i'll probably be using a porsche transaxle to take the brunt but we're also toying with the idea of a viper 'box 'cause i like the 6-speed idea. i've seen too many skyline posts saying "i killed my g.box", etc or i'd use one of them. still in the planning stage after 8 months. lol cheers. si.

(the rather long bill with lots of big numbers on it, most likely).

sounds daft but is there any fuel in it? dunno about the clutch. elmo's slave cylinder thingy idea sounds about right to me. if there's fuel in it what about a manifold leak? who did you lend it to anyway? just get a Z mechanic to sort it and send them the bill. lol

dot cotton?

gotta say thats happened to me a few times too. usually i get my big ideas, ask for opinions and because people havent gone there before they take the mick. i dont see the point. i put up a thread earlier asking about internals and as far as i know, no one has replied to it yet but when they do i can guarantee that it'll either be someone who really knows what they're on about or the usual ninnies making out like its pie in the sky, it'll never happen, etc. wander why its taking so long for the VG30 to get to the power levels of RB26's, 2JZ's, 13B's, etc could it just be that some people are too set in their ways? someone got the mick took out of them on here a while back after asking about how to make his Z faster just because he was 19(i think) and everyone was saying he'd never be able to afford it. as far as i know, he went and brought a skyline instead. if i hadnt been on here so long i must admit that i'd be very sceptical about joining based on the impression some on here give. 'course, the long termers and normal people are dead good and there's still a bit of community sense. lets try and keep it and hound the d1ckh34ds instead. si.

68852.

never had any dealings with them so cant comment but i presume it would ahve been posted? if so was it squashed in the post? wont have done it any good. otherwise it could be just seated wrong on one of the ends. oh and 6psi sounds like safety boost so it may also be a totally un-related prob but considering you just changed the pipe, that makes it suspect. good luck. si.

sounds like you still got a leak in that pipe somewhere or in another one. i'd check it again if it was me. si.

hi all. im going to go mad with my manual over the winter and next summer and as im going to try to make it a bit of a monster i'd like all your opinions on what internals to use (best, strongest, best value, etc). i'd quite like a stroker engine but i'll settle for a stock size that'll take HUGE boost. dont care at all about lag, etc. i got an auto for knocking round in now so im going silly with my other one. im looking at a single turbo conversion (dont laugh, i've thought it out and made the enquiries - it CAN be done) or 2 big ones. also, i want it to be able to rev higher (even if i have to have the boost trail off) as this will help with keeping the big turbo/s spinning. im going to need some pretty tough internals to cope with it and since thats the first part of the engine that will need building, thats first. all help, comments, suggestions i'll be greatful for. not bothered if it takes a year or 2 to build. i got a spare Z so i just want this one to be the best i can make it for me. oh, and i can get what i think is a very good price on a HKS T51R SPL so that may be the turbo of choice. thanks in advance. si.

de-cats, mig tips and 1.3 bar without any fuelling, timing or other change. bang. oops. lol

just had another thought. what about the de-limiter thingy? would that slow the speed sensor signal by a tiny ammount therefore confusing the hicas? i'd love to know why it does it. si.

sheeps clothing? 300ZX? hmmm. must be some vicious looking wolves near you. lol

over 1 1/2 tonnes of car vs 3mm? of strip metal? i'd sue the hell out of them if they did that to mine. the incompetence of the AA, etc never ceases to amaze me. si.

dont know with the Z but thats a common prob on vauxhalls. its the idle control valve on them. if the Z has one of these, i'd presume it to be the same thing? if not i'd say a vaccuum pipe or pressure sensor of some kind would be at fault. HTH. si.

how much do tranny's or rebuilds cost anyway? would it end up as cheap to convert it to a manual? si.

sorry to hijak but: Stella, what kit is that and where do you get one, please? looks like the most subtle wide-arch (usually a contradiction) i've seen. i think most wide-arch's are over the top but i really like that one. si.

i dont know what it is but my manual does that too. not very often but occasionally. i presumed it to be something to do with the hicas having a moment so i've ignored it. i always thought the hicas has a speed crossover point where it works at low speed but switches off after X-MPH. so then i thought i must be crossing that point, causing the hicas to work or stop working depending if im slowing down or speeding up. the other thing i used to get (due to a dodgy de-limiter, now sorted by a JD'd ECU) was that at 100mph on the speedo, the clock would drop to 0 and the lighter steering and hicas would start working. NOT big, clever or funny at that speed. almost makes it pointless de-limiting because the car becomes so nervous you cant really use it past 100mph. HTH but if anyone knows for sure what happens can you let me know, please. thanks. si.

oh and i think the US ones will have pre-tentioners built in due to US crash regs or something like that?

quick question... i have 2 J-spec Z's. is there anything wrong with the belts in the doors that i should know about? are the UK ones better in a bump, etc? cheers. si

i have both and basically the auto is better at cruising or for town work but the manual is a fair bit quicker and when you behave uses slightly less fuel (they both drink like fishes though). the manual is deffinately more fun but the auto is easier to get on with and more relaxing. if its a second car deffinately go for the manual but if its your only car i'd agree with the others and say just get the best condition one. as for the money you pay, you still see some Z's with loads of money spent (usually later ones) going for 10k or so but you can get them as low as £1500. basically you usually pay for what you get and a £1500 Z will most likely cost you more than a £10k one over 3yrs. all the better if you can get them cheap but these cars cost a lot to maintain properly and if someone has spent thousands on keeping it in good nick they will (quite reasonably) want some of it back. look to pay 3-5k for a nice one (depending on age, spec, etc) but the manuals do hold their value more so pay a bit less for an auto of the same age, spec. HTH si.

i think he means that he had to go to the boot (at the back of the car) and there wasnt any smoke (he still had the car running). that was last night but this morning he's got smoke. as for the problem, i have no idea unless an unlucky small animal crawled up the left pipe in the night and got stuck, only to be toasted this morning hence the bbq smell. otherwise its a Z so could be turbo seals, headgasket, lambda sensor, PCV's and about another dozen things that will make it smoke. sounds daft but it could even be a dead catalyst? good luck anyhow. si.

craig: it isnt really a nice one. lol its been bent at some point and it hasnt been patched up very well. aswell as that the chassis drives all over the place (feels like a rear shock just isnt connected). on the good side it runs very well and has NO smoke at all when hot or cold, on boost or off and no rattles. the 'box seems smooth and kicks down ok (never had an auto Z before so im comparing it to a 4.2 jag i had years ago). no nasty noises, etc from the drivetrain. it wobbles and judders on the brakes above 30mph but is fine below it so it isnt discs (more likely the front ARB link got broke in the crunch and no one fixed it). but somehow it has an MOT and seems mechanically sound. looks a bit of a mess though. front wing is fouling the headlight and the back 1/4 looks like its been sprayed with a can. shame really but its only my knock about car untill mine is done so i'll get the chassis sorted and just use it. its better than the bus. lol

oh, and about 60psi would be nice. still after sponsors :o)

im greedy so my list is very very long but im more the power and control type than bodywork. i think i'd go for a subtle bodykit just to set it off (veilside skirts, etc.) no big wings or mad bumpers, just a little smoother and more pronounced. then.... a multi-link racing suspension set-up on a one off tubular chassis with integral rollcage, 2x T-88 or T51R's, wiseco/JE/etc ultra low comp pistons, full JUN 3.2 stroker bottom end, dry sump conversion, 2x race oil pumps for the engine, seperate oil pump and resevoir for the tubs, solid state (no timing adjust), higher lift cams, vernier pulleys, titanium (larger) valves and dual springs, solid lifters, EGR blank, 2x high pressure water pumps for the engine, seperate tank and pump for the turbos, all oil, water, p.steering pumps, etc alloy, all lines braided, no balance bar, ported/polished heads, one off exhaust manifolds to the relocated turbo's, one off (seperate) intake manifolds, 2 rows of injectors (one smaller than stock for bimbling around town off boost and the other 880's or so), top range ECU (dont think it really matters which one - i think the set-up's more important), dual external wastegates, 2-2 exhaust (no link in the middle), 2x high pressure fuel pumps, 2x electronic fuel pressure regulators, 1x low pressure fuel pump into the surge tank, 2x huge chargecoolers with CO2 spray, tripple stage nitrous oxide with one to keep temp down on low power gain, one big one to get the turbo's spinning before boost then a bit less but still decent while they do, 2x huge radiators (one in the front, one in the back), 2x huge oil coolers (one for the engine, one for the turbo's, faster steering rack, adjustable camber, leather seats, fresh paintjob, nice wheels (19' ish), VFD dash, organic/ race clutch, carbon/titanium driveshaft into the porsche G50 transaxle, AP/Brembo to do the stopping with massive disks and ducted cooling pipes to the brakes, standard Z climate control cuz its bloomin good. dont know if i missed anything but im sure i did. like i said, i'm a greedy guy. BTW, if anyone wants to sponsor me to get this Z built........ LOL

put back to silver with proper lights and nicer wheels then get a decent engine in it and i dont think it would be that bad. it does look well done but it also looks bloody awful with that colour scheme and i cant see the point in tarting a relatively slow car and not bothering with the performance, brakes, suspension, etc. i'd much rather see it with that much time and effort put into making it do something instead. just my 10 penneth. si.