WillieO

Not sure how you can diagnose valve stem oil seals with engine known for more likely blowing turbo seals when given the gun a bit too often. Your smoke on idle is more likely to be down to turbo seals. Fixing turbos or valve stem oil seals is still a big job and engine out normally either way. Where are you? There is a garage in Bonnybridge with some experience on zeds. BTW turbos dont have ceramic spindles. Think you are thinking about another car with ceramic turbine parts. Also even though a stock zed turbo can be upped to about 1 bar it is about all it can take and dont expect it to last very long with that kind of loading used regularly. It also then needs a remapped chip to fuel properly and boost jets or a controller. Similarly with your transmission. Plenty to search for on here for more info.

When its cold the viscous coupling oil is thick and does therefore transmit more drive to the fan and when well warmed up it slips properly. When the car over heats however a bi metallic coiled sprin clutch expands and locks the fan up so that it is 100% driven. If you've got it off you should be able to see the spiral spring clutch.

Duff injector(s) on 2nd rotor or maybe still poor seal and not enough compression. Trust he proved it had good compression?

doh Kevin already said it

If its the original zed metal key its made of titanium which is not magnetic. In fact you cant get them any more and when you could they cost $100 or so. Think you better have another fish for it!

watch that Euro DIN bhp is measured different from USA SAE BHP - Basically Euro are bigger bhp or USA ones dont count water pump and ancilliaries loss - whichever way you want to look at it

zorst and intake make 10.5psi according to Stillen chart

mines an Aug92 series 2. Wasnt the suede stuff on the bottom half of the dash and doors one of the changes?

You can swap em. UK manual and auto has the same engine oil cooler and series 2 on has an additional trans oil cooler in front of that on autos.

by Geoff Get on decent bit of clear road set it at 90, Brake to disengage it, slow right down like you would for some dual carriageway lights. Get to about 30, select resume and see how long you can hold on before you go for the brake. This is extremely childish and only to be tried on a clear road but its weirdly exciting having the car get on full boost trying to get back to 90 asap while you are just steering it. If you tell your passenger the throttles stuck wide open and let them see your foot is off the gas they tend not to take it too well:0 Course you cant do this with a manwell

There is also the prop centre support bearing to consider. By 10 years old the rubber bellows support for the bearing is harder than a witches mammary and beginning to perish and break up. On mine it had sagged so that the bearing was sat on the mount support instead of cushioned in the centre. The bearing itself was sound. Symptom was vibrating felt thru the seat worst around 30 - 55 and it improves as the car warms up with some heat in the rubber. Cost around £130 for the part and up to 3 hours to change it.

If your zed has been in storage for months before you got it it can have slight gunging up on piston rings and valve seats etc. This will all clear after some days and weeks of driving and it'll get smoother and tighter on compression. So dont over react and dont roger it with too aggressive driving either especially when cold or we'll be hearing about your blown turbos next :)

138k miles Castrol RS 0-40 purrs like a kitten, doesnt leak or burn it and original turbos quite happy still. Its the thick stuff that blows out crank seals and gaskets. Think about the body - high blood pressure and too thick blood is a bad thing init;) Thick oil might diguise a rattly engine but it also saps power. So some still dont understand what 0W or 10W means?

Oil Viscosity Weighing in on engine lubrication By: Wayne Scraba/autoMedia.com Most people are familiar with oil's Viscosity Rating—10W40, for example. However, very few know that the "W" refers to "winter," not "weight." And most of us have no idea what the weight-rating numbers mean other than that the vehicle's manufacturer specifies a particular viscosity. This story deals strictly with viscosity; we're saving the petroleum vs. synthetic debate for later. Oil Duties Inside an engine, oil is in a Catch-22 scenario: It has to seal rings and valves, but it also must reduce friction. In simple terms, oil has to accomplish two functions that have directly opposite requirements. The viscosity of any oil changes with temperature. The higher the temperature, the lower the viscosity—the oil thins out. On the flipside, the lower the temperature the higher the viscosity. Because of this, the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has established a series of viscosity classifications that establish oil performance at 100 and 0 degrees Celsius (212 and 32 degrees Fahrenheit, respectively). Highs and Lows Low-viscosity oils flow better than high-viscosity ones—the lighter-weight fluid is easier to pump and therefore circulates faster through the engine's various galleries. Low-viscosity oils also maintain a lower oil pressure, but the oil pump delivers a greater volume through the galleries than it would with thicker (higher-viscosity) oils. Heavier oils also tend to operate at higher temperatures because the oil pump has to work harder to force the lubricant through the system. Oil does not compress readily, so the added pressure increases the temperature. In the end, high-viscosity oils maintain a higher oil pressure, but the pump delivers a smaller volume of oil. Multigrades Multigrade oils typically begin as base oils, such as 10W. Then viscosity-index modifiers (polymers) are added in an effort to stabilize the viscosity. This allows a 10W40 oil to flow like a 10W at cold temperatures and a 40W at higher temperatures. The multigrade oils' viscosity modifiers are long-chain molecules that lessen the change of viscosity with temperature variance. In the past, the polymer additives (used to thicken the oil) were sometimes susceptible to viscosity loss. Permanent viscosity loss occurred when high shear forces (such as the relationship between the main bearings and the crankshaft) actually break the polymer molecules into less-effective smaller pieces. On a similar note, temporary viscosity loss also occurred when the polymer molecules aligned themselves in order to create a path of least resistance. Fortunately, today's additive packages have improved oil's shear-resistance. However, oils with the same rating from different manufacturers can exhibit different viscosity ratings in an operating engine, depending on the shear stability of their viscosity-modifying additives. For technoids, weights are defined thusly (stokes and centistrokes are measurements of viscosity): "SAE 30 is SAE 30 no matter what the "W" prefix number is: 0W, 5W or 10W. This viscosity in centistokes (cSt) @ 100 degrees C is with the minimum of 9.3 cSt and a maximum of 12.5 cSt.

Watch that you are interpreting the rating properly - the first number is the viscosity when stone cold - its still thick because its cold. The second number is the viscosity when its hot = 40 for RS 0-40! A 0W is better for a cold engine than a 5W and the 40W applies when its hot. Nissan says a 5W 20 is not recommended for a turbo - correct because of the 20 weight when hot - just a bit thin for hot! Remember also that such range oils 0W-40 or 10W 50 were not commercially available when this was written. also nowhere do you see 60 referred to that some of us seem to use to quieten a rattly engine - thats really on the thick side and for Texas summer temperatures! A high cold viscosity will help you blow out seals and gaskets due to the high start up oil pressure. Remember oil pressure is a guide to whether or not the engine is lubing it doesnt tell you what the amount of flow is and that is important. Thick oil will give high oil pressure and slow flow - not necessarily good! Maybe my interpretation is not 100% correct but its clearly a few percent better than some here - what confuses me now with this chart is the 20W 20 being OK from -10 to more than +40Deg C. Where's our oil expert that works for Shell?

been ok summer and winter in mine for more than 3 years - and it fits with Nissan's own recommendations

by Richard It is accepted that an auto loses loads of power in the torque converter but the manual needs 3 gear changes by 100mph and no matter how fast you think you are changing gear it still takes at least 0.2 seconds each time you do so the manual loses at least 0.6 seconds on the way to 100 but in reality it will still be beside the auto at 100mph simply because when it is in gear it is accelerating quicker than the auto. So the power lost in the torque converter is roughly equivalent to 0.6 seconds to 100mph - big deal. I have an auto btw I'd have liked a manual but still love my auto its the best auto car I've ever driven. I need to post a video of a red auto against a black manual on the strip at Crail!

There is also the risk of a single piece shaft starting to whip like a skipping rope at very high zed type speeds at which point it might self destruct - not nice - then again where in UK can you go that fast?

by Pete Just 4 gears to be exact or 3 plus overdrive plus a lock up clutch that makes it feel like it just went into 5th but its the difference between the torque converter slip and no slip. The lock up works in 3rd as well but to be honest I have never been able to feel it in 3rd tho 3rd is great for a blast round country roads with all that torque. 3rd in an auto is the same ratio as a manual in 4th.

or tyres - zeds are known for tyre roar on our rough roads - does it change pitch with different surfaces? Maybe also if you have Japanese spec compound tyres instead of Euro spec.

sorry to hear of your damage. Weekend before last similar muppet broke into neighbours Metro and succeeded in destroying the steering column. He couldnt get it started so climbed my garden fence and broke into my hut. Nicked my daughters bike the cretin! Police come an hour after I phone em next day when I discover our great loss. The zed was OK. Police call me again on Saturday. They recovered the bike in perfect condition at yet another crime scene 6 miles away at a travelodge type place! I found that they recovered it at all simply amazing. So my opinion is the police are pretty switched on here or our neds are more stupid and fitter than yows.

You can get bog std import ones for about £35 each

Dont dump em - put em in the oven and dry em out and put them back in again. Silica gel can be re used many times.

by Danny Not sure if thats 100% true. My understanding of stiffer anti sway or anti roll bars is that they increase roll stiffness in the sense that when one wheel is under compression due to cornering forces the anti sway/roll bar transmits more same direction compression to the other side so counteracting that sides tendency to go light. Result is flatter cornering. afaik the anti sway/roll bar does not actually increase the rigidity of the body/chassis in the same way a strut bar does. I guess thats not what you meant anyway sorry to be pedantic. I'm surprised at that increased roll stiffness is needed outside of a track - my stock UK on 18" seems to corner pretty flat as is. Maybe bushes are worn on any car thats rolling too much. Even new bushes can make a big difference. my2p

Better buy a latest spec Palm or Sony with good colour screen plus gps sensor add on and voice guide gps software and speed camera software plus a cheap snooper to detect the laser. You'd get the lot for around £400. The gps is magic seen it in action.