JeffTT

Life is GOOD, a catch up is well on the cards ( pm sent)

Here you go recircs explained http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?127063-Recircs-revealed-Inside-out-feature&highlight=Recirc+valve

Worth remembering a boost leak check does not find issue`s with recirc valves as they can leak back into the system, the upshot of this is no obvious leak but an issue with low and pulsing boost, will find the link to a thread of mine that explains it. Jeff

Before suspecting the injectors you may have fuel getting into the cylinders from another route, a very common issue is the fuel rail damper, when the diaphragm in this fails it drops fuel into the plenum after switching off that gets sucked into the engine upon restart and can cause a non start from flooding or just hard cranking with a misfire that clears when revved, of course when the engine is running the fuel is been burnt more quickly, it does however have the ability to cause an occasional pulse misfire and effect the fuel pressure stability. Testing the damper is simple, remove the vacuum pipe attached and wipe you finger over the end of the pipe if its wet or smells of fuel then it leaking, do try this several times after been left, when its running and before and after a run as the little blighters can just leak intermittently, replace it and all will be good and often the improvement extends across the whole running range which is great as they are not that expensive. Jeff

Hiya, still around for tech help.... Jeff

Get yourself one of these, not expensive..

Ho Hum.....

Mmm.........yes.

What do you think ? :sad:

Just read this with interest as it mirrors a lot of thread of similar content on here of recent times, the boost leak testing you guys are doing and the info you have seen on pressure levels with the recommended 5 to 7 psi as a max. With 15 years of undertaking boost leak testing with a professional compressor and air line I can confirm to of never blowing a seal, never ever in fact. the trouble with testing at low levels is only the obvious leaks from open ends on vacuum lines etc will show out, loose clamps will often hold tight at low levels and require a higher testing pressure to find those, and by their nature will also require a higher volume of air to find them not just higher pressure, this volume is not possible on foot pumps or small compressors designed for inflating tyres, they simply cannot replace the lost air quick enough. This was often evident when we did a boost check on a customers car who had already done a low pressure, low volume test and thought it was all ok until we did our test using the garage compressor and would find problems with turbo cuffs etc. So unless you have the facility to high volume boost checking you will not know for sure if you have high load / boost pressure leaks other than struggling boost, boost noise or especially with boost controllers pulsing boost at wide open throttle. Going back to the 5 to 7 psi boost test level as max...why? when the standard system can be easily run at 15 psi and higher, the pipe work prior to the turbo gets tested also when leak testing and this is more than capable of holding 15 psi as is the cam end seals and rear crank seal. so 5 psi really is not going to cut it, similarly if there is a huge leak like a cuff off at an inter-cooler then it would be impossible to find with foot pump or small compressor, best bet is to get into a garage with a compressor and most important good knowledge of the engine pipework layout as there are common placed where they leak. (PowerZed)

The pcs valves which are not spring loaded are non genuine ones, personally when I bought some of these to try I chucked them in the bin as cannot see why Nissan would have spring loaded them and after market did not...... the price tells the story after market are cheaper but appear to be incorrectly equipped, Buy from Nissan and buy from the UK as ones from certain states in the US are different according to the emissions control laws there. Old ones that still snap shut would normally be deemed to be ok and the cause of the tick over smoke be elsewhere, however its worth changing them and the rubber pipes including the two front ones as they have velocity reducers in which can get blocked, the old pipes will most likely fall apart / crack when removing which can be the cause of air leaks and the PCV system not working correctly, further more after fitting new valves you need to cover at least 300 to 400 miles before all residue will be completely removed and only then can you make a decision on if they have cured the issue or not.

"two" should be spelt too, makes all the difference.

Standard TT clutch release on the left as others said and the one on the right looks like a non turbo, however have seen some after market clutch units use the non turbo one on twin turbo`s instead of changing the bearing carrier ( shorter ). Jeff

Reverse switch is quite high up the box, be easier to ease the loom tails to the switch down a little snip it off and run a clean pair up to the connector behind the drivers headlight. Jeff

Yes it is weird to share the circuits that way? always was a quick check of mine when zeds had gear change issues or non working cruise control was to put it in reverse with ignition on but not running see if reverse lights came on, if they did not it was the same fuse for the box reverse lights and cruise. Jeff

Check the dip stick tube, turbo return as well as the turbo oil feed line and the aforementioned cam cover, mostly do-able in situ with the dip stick tube been the hardest to sort out. Jeff

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?127063-Recircs-revealed-Inside-out-feature&highlight=Recirc+valve

Thanks Groover for bring this to my attention, Dean I was not ignoring you, logging in on my phone is a mare when on wifi at cafe or bars is a quick connect check and off affair, will endeavour to reply to your email address when logged on to a more secure connection which should be in a day or so. Regards Jeff

Confused dot com........confused dot com............confused dot com........confused dot com...........confused dot com........confused dot com.........confused dot com

Always thought it a shame Nissan incorporated the ugliest reflector known to man in the center of the light, only the side front repeaters are worse. Jeff

No. Jeff

No worries, yes the parts are available here usually, saying that Nissan are defo scaling down their UK stock now and so you have to stay ahead of the game sometimes with pre-order`s, lee will sort it for you easy enough. Jeff

You might want to look a little harder in the UK there are some hidden gems here, recently looked at a an early UK manual with 32k on the clock, looked good enough to go into concours show without anything to do and sold for £8k I know to some late 96/98 imports already here and on this forum you would get for that kind of money and you can touch before you buy! Jeff

Bang on correct Chrisbasildon! was reading through this to see if anyone knew the answer, been a while but have done dealt with this problem a few times in the past, in fact used to keep the spring and ball bearing in stock as its was often the case the ball bearing gets mashed when the spring breaks, little money for the parts but dropping the box is the only way to access it, at least its not a major gearbox issue. Jeff