JeffTT

To clarify, all UK zeds had electronic rear shock absorbers as standard, they did not have the switch to operate it though like in the US, which incidentally they had front and rear electronic shock adjust. The UK cars utilised the first click of the handbrake to activate the " harder" setting, well stronger rebound, the units were very expensive and often when it came to changing them, Jap spec non adjustable units were fitted, the valving on the Jap spec ones were equal to the harder setting of the UK one`s. Given the taller springs ( and ride height ) and softer shock settings on the UK model it is the reason they then fitted larger anti-roll bars to try and control it. Jeff

Just to clarify, the old R12 refridgerant gas was phased out under governmental pressure for environmental reasons and according to where and what you read its impact on ozone depletion etc. is the main reason, that said 134a is just the best of the worst rather than a perfect solution..... politics really. So in back in the real non political world there are some real differences as far as system impact is concerned. Before going down the route of changing the entire as system, get hold of some port converters off e-bay and fit them to the pipework ( easy ) go along to the ac man and say hey can you do a check for leaks using a cheap inert gas. Once checked and vacced down ask them to add some pag oil to keep the compressor happy and add then a volume weight of R134a that is slightly less than the volume weight of R12 on the label at the front of the car. Then when complete and all running with nice cool ac, be happy it cost you just £50 to £80 rather than hundreds to change the system, yes it is a compromise and maybe only 90% as good as a newer type system. Jeff

Bought this about 15 years ago on a day trip to France one Christmas, and yes it has 300zx cars in, I even bought more off ebay to add to them .....ahem. Jeff

Just to clarify, having replaced plenty faulty / worn UK diffs ( with cooler ) and next to no jap diffs ( without cooler ) in the workshop then the cooler would seem to have no effect in real life use. The pump is operated by a temperature sensor in the diff rear plate and is set so high its is highly unlikely to ever trigger the pump, Nissan clearly thought it was needed and then deliberately set it up never to operate, plain weird ? Delete if leaking will be no issue at all. Jeff

Fuse in the drivers side fusebox above the accelerator pedal, marked up as ASCD A/T control Jeff

Oh I see, I always removed the gearbox first then the engine in the workshop, I know Jimmer takes the engine out leaving the gearbox in, just a preference thing really and of course both myself and Jimmer work from 2 post ramps not on the floor which makes a world of difference. Yes with the prop, engine mounts, side pipework and rad moved lifting the engine and pulling forward will give more access to the bolt from the engine bay. Jeff

No the engine will not move forward without removing engine mounts and side pipework etc. Try undoing the radiator top mounts to allow movement at the rad pipes, the hoses going to the throttle bodies and boost pipes from the turbo`s ( if tt ) and then jack up the engine at the pulley and the engine will tip backwards and the gearbox down giving access over the top with long extensions. Jeff

Undo the rear of the gearbox, prop, gear lever linkage and gearbox cross member and pull the gearbox down so you can access over the top with long extension bars and a good fitting socket, leave a couple of loose bolts in the bottom for safety. Jeff

Just for your info, the standard oil pressure sensor can be changed without draining the oil as its sits above the sump line. Jeff

Nice one Joely P, Devvny, don`t write of recondition units, there is solid industry built around these and alternator rebuilds, the technical merit of a full overall should be as good as new, hence 12 months warranty and a nice wad of cash left in your pocket. Jeff

The connections to the injectors are the ones that go green, and its very likely a problem with an injector connection more than a a coil pack, you will of moved the loom slightly and pulled a tad on the injector cable hence making a good connection again. Jeff

I would hazard a guess your speedo has a kph to mph conversion as the issue your having is very typical of a failed converter, the needle been stuck around to the right is just because it cannot power back to rest. If you take the cluster out and remove the glass you can blow on the needle and it will return, that is how light they are. The converter will be either added on the back of the cluster or loose and wired into the loom, as a temp measure you could take the converter out of circuit, the speedo will read in kph again but will prove the problem, a new converter from here >> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-300ZX-PULSAR-SKYLINE-SPEEDO-CONVERTER-DELIMITER-SPEEDOMETER-CONVERSION-/120446038718 Jeff

Easy fix here >>>> https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?128022-power-window-repair-(inside-out-feature)&highlight=window In the meantime if you need to raise your window, with ignition on hold the up button and bang the door inside centre with the palm of your hand whilst keeping the window up button pressed, most times the banging of the door makes a temp connection to get the window closed. No need to totally remove the door panel, just unclip the bottom and ease out and you can look up inside and get to the module. Jeff

http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/clock/clock.html Center Console Clock Repair: Most of the older Z32s have problems with their clocks. The display gets too dim, or goes out altogether. With the cost of a new OEM clock above one hundred dollars, most opt to put in a turbo timer or some other small electronics in the prime console real-estate, install an audio head unit with a clock display on it and call it a day. Fixing the OEM clock is surprisingly simple if you have some soldering skills to replace some resistors buried inside it. NOTE: this process will not work for everyone due to the fact the old 181 ohm resistors may have failed to the point where they allowed too much current to go through the board and damaged some other component. It is definitely worth it to try, can't be made much worse. Tools/Parts: flat head screwdriver soldering iron (not a soldering gun) solder (rosin core) 2 180 ohm 1/2 watt resistors de soldering wick (not shown) to help clean up excess solder multi meter, not required but can be extremely helpful Procedure: 1. Remove the clock from the dash by removing the front console. There are two screws behind the trim plate above the top DIN slot (1.) and two more behind covers left and right of the top vents (2.). The clock is held in by 2 Philips head screws. Unscrew it and unplug it. Take the front and back covers of the clock apart by inserting the flathead into the slots located on the bottom of the display area (3.). Twist the screwdriver and it should loosen up the plastic tab. Do the same for the other side and the front plate will come apart. 2. With the 2 covers removed, the plug will be on the back cover of the two halves. Forcefully press forward to remove it out of the slot that's holding it in (4.). NOTE: It can be rather hard to remove so go easy on it as well as remember the position it was on for re-assembly later. 3. Separate the top and bottom boards. There are 6 pins to de-solder (red dots in 5.). De-solder them and carefully place a screwdriver between the black plastic and the bottom part of the board to CAREFULLY pry them apart. It will not come apart easily. If it is too difficult, try to remove as much solder as possible holding the 6 pins in place (6.). 4. Take the board with the glass display and flip it around. Notice the 2 flat, black, resistors marked with a "181" on them (2 red dots in 7.). These resistors need to be removed. Actually, the only one needing to be removed and replaced is the one connected to the cathode heaters on the display. However, I would replace them both because if one fails then there is a possibility they both might be defective. Try to remove as much solder as possible holding the resistors in place. Remove the 2 "181" ohm resistors by removing or breaking them off the board with the flat head screwdriver. NOTE: Be careful not to slip which will cause the screwdriver to damage another part or scratch the traces (metal paths) on the board. 5. Once the old resistors are removed, measure the length of the new resistor wires to match the circular prints which are approximately 2-3 mm below the old resistor solders. I would not re-solder the new resistor in the same place as the old, because when they were removed, they may have damaged the traces under them (8.). Solder the new resistors onto the board carefully. Make sure the resistor wires aren't touching any exposed parts cause it might ground and/or short out components . Do the same for the other resistor (9.). 6. Put the top and bottom halves back together and re-solder the 6 pins. Place the plug through the back cover and snap it back into place. Place the clock snug into the back cover and then seal/snap together the front cover to combine the to halves. Go back to the Z, plug it in, turn the key to the 'On' position. If done properly, the clock should illuminate like new.

as per link> https://www.gov.uk/government/news/mot-changes-20-may-2018 Jeff

Could just be variation in component supplier, as the model got older and manufacturing savings were been made it is likely Nissan were sourcing from more than one supplier. Jeff

Yep Nissan Cambelt / parts always and here is why >>> https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?130325-Nissan-V-Blueprint-Cambelt-showdown&highlight=cambelt Jeff

nope !! lol

Jeez that is criminal !! Factor in the cost of a full repaint before buying eh ! Jeff

Nice ! Jeff

Was last MOTED five years ago, looking at the pictures, the write up and the background information its already hit its best price at £1,500 that car will be a money pit for sure ! breaker Jeff

Get some cctv cameras up !! Jeff

Yeh sure, its a numbers game as you say, more likely than not just software mailing system rather than any human input other than at the initialisation and of course if they catch someone in their net, near impossible for police or any other security services to catch these scammer`s, in far off countries where law and order is .... well less than perfect. Jeff

Quite, some of them must get through to some though ?? that said many of them are so badly written and have crazy back story they are verging on insulting. So double delete and gone !! Jeff

Yes the " my husband was killed in a military take over and I have £40 million in an account I need to transfer to the UK, can I pay it into yours and we split it 50 /50" Yes right on ................NOT !