JeffTT

Was shocked to hear this on the radio news yesterday, what a terrible shame, so young too. But then Cancer has no rules, it can bring tragedy at any age....?

Holy oly prices have gone up !! since I retired!! https://www.zedworld.co.uk/wizzz.html

Just to clarify the standard bulb is a H3 as said above but 35 watts not 55 watts, the cabling is rather small for 55 watts, it will work but could cause problems if used for long periods.

Ok the belts are ancillaries, never seen any 1996 zeds with OBD 2 port ( in the UK ) , seen many +1999 models ConZult though, kind of sure the later version for the US was not true obd 2 port protocol just a connector change only as true obd 2 is a higher layer protocol utilising canbus communication, the Obd2 term is the connector of which to which up to 5 different protocols can run on it, the zed ecu is just not that advanced, ConZult working on an adapter connector would be way more useful.

The belt you mentioned changing was that ancillary or cambelt> if the later check the timing of all cams and bottom pulley. The car is not Obd 11 compliant so the fault / error checking is likely not complete and or corrupted, you need to get a ConZult or similar to get full diagnosis and then move on from there.

Sorry just seen this, have sent them now. Jeff

Bum not sure why the error on the pics, they do show the fixings access and tabs, if you have an e mail I can send then to you. Jeff

Before looking to change the chip / eprom, a look at the mapping via ConZult would be interesting, also popping on overrun is symptamictic of other issues, air been drawn into the exhaust, or leaking injector, not seen any generic chips that would cause that as on over runn and throttle closed the injectors and fuel is switched off in line with most every modern ( ish) injection system. Check cambelt / valve timing, pulsing from valve overlap may have an impact, or even the exhaust type, as said on overrun the fuel should be switching off so check the closed throttle sensor is actually activating correctly. Generic chips are fine for stock cars with mild boost increase and will perform very well even with larger injectors and bigger turbo`s, only after this stage does specific mapping come into its own, and then its really just fractional changes, by far the biggest way to get your engine running best is to get is set up correctly, ignition timing, cambelt / timing, boost leak checks, recirc valves check for leaks, clean air filters, good afm readings, throttle balance, vacuum pipes checked for correct connections, correct spark plugs, correct oil and good loom connections. Unless your confident to check all of these and have the correct equipment then get it checked over by Jim at PowerZed you will be amazed how different the car will feel after the essential checks and adjustments are done.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPExQ-fJJm5nN5-cyrySRQUR2SvE-RhPyhNbn-U https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNjfRmLqvEJ2-UdbZsq44_GISfIDNnlBCUor0CJ https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOaZKHbsOpj_huzUUivA9tG3GD6fu6oE7rh23gS https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMFjOuz9XVEB720Rji6scKR3acleezNU38s99h- https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNUZNoth4eZKB5O8Qe2D6R8YXfevuFoSjiY-lR9

Have photo`s but cannot post them, will see if I link them from an elsewhere.

Yes turbos can be removed without removing the manifold, done it many times.

Hello hello did someone mention me ... lol

Nope never dropped an engine out that way, it was more work ?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clutch-Slave-Cylinder-fits-NISSAN-300ZX-Z32-3-0-90-to-95-VG30DETT-TRW-3062048P10/233523895969?fits=Car+Make%3ANissan|Model%3A300+ZX|Plat_Gen%3AZ32&epid=900040316&hash=item365f1bdea1:g:zsMAAOSwYoFeae~0

To prove the point, cut the cable 23 at the ecu and fit the resister between the ecu side of the cable and earth, if it is the correct resister value and installed correctly the code will be gone.

PFR6B-11C is the preferred plug and available easily at motor factors like and on ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6x-NGK-Spark-Plugs-PFR6B-11C-2684/253659950861?hash=item3b0f4faf0d:g:HqMAAOSwpj1eFbW2

Might be the cable back to the ecu now, if your happy to keep the resister in and don`t see why not after this time, the easiest thing to do it fit the resister at the ecu end between pin 23 and earth. Ece pin out here >> https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/color-coded-ecu-pin-1990-95-z32s.html

Sorry guys only just seen this, thanks from all of you, yeh had a great day as it happens, Beemer had a good day too !! cheers guys.

Yikes !

Very nice !

https://www.facebook.com/groups/105877173415141/

No sorry retired to the sun, but this is what you missed >>>

Had a custom plate made to suit the area on 99 spec bumper, never had an issue.... normal size plate looked huge in comparison. Jeff

Behind the front bumper, often does not get plugged back in, that normally causes an outside temp reading of -81 or similar, makes running the air con difficult as the climate control system is confused by the incorrect figure. Jeff

Yes agree with what you both are saying. Jeff