Smithy

The whole point of my post originally mate was cos you stated that you would UPGRADE to the Doolz, i was pointing out that was not an upgrade at all. If you really want to research the Q45 then go on the SXOC forum where it is wildly used, Skylines seldom do and the reason why:- The Skyline single turbo version uses similar MAF to the S12,S14,S15 and later scooby, they upgrade generally to the Z32 simply becuase the engines are not really capable of more, if they are, it is then an engine swap, in the case of the skyline, the GTR version. The GTR's themselves (twinturbo's) tend to use 2 MAF's, again they would be hard pressed to outflow 2 of them together, should they think they have over 800bhp then they do engine management. There are 2 things that determine a MAF#s flow, the volumetric internal size an dthe plaacement in the plumbing system ( how close to the turbo) The skyline GTR with 2 of them and right next to the turbo, would never have a need to go Q45 size. The Q45 will flow in the region of the very high 500's can be plumbed in in 10 mins on a Zed and then just requires the mapping to suit. At the end of the day, you can only do what you think mate, so best of luck. cheers smithy

Your getting a bit muddled with all this mate :) The doolz is not an upgrade compared to the Twin JWT version intakes. Doolz uses the readings from just the 1 MAF, it uses a second dummy one simply to balance the tube length of both sides, it will not allow the MAF to produce a stronger signal to the ECU beyond the MAF's limits. It can also in some cases be problematic in the UK due to our typical british weather as it sits so low down. The JWT Twin cone kit splits the MAF's signal so as to produce stronger a stronger signal to the ECU beyond the MAF's limits, hence more power. Where you mention a couple of samco bends, not quite that easy either, the top end pipe where it would connect is 63mm diamter and the MAF end 78mm diameter, at 134 deg it would be a special build silicone and you could wait 2 months for it being a reducer, however it's worth trying..... Easiest solution is in fact the Q45 that you asked about before, this will flow 20% more than a Z32 MAF and requires a simple 90-78mm reducer and wired in, your SAFC gadget would compensate for he Q45, however JD mapping it would be better. Hope that helps smithy

Alls i would say is the discs are some heavy buggers to ship in the UK let alone from the US, So shipping will be costly, add that to the overall cost of the kit and you may as well get dannys big brake kit, advantage being that should you require replacement discs, from danny or anywhere else they are easily available, the ones from the US unless you know what car they are from, you won't easily replace them, another advantage of dannys kit is should you wanna fit the GTR brembo calipers at a later date, they wap straight on, with the US kit you may still need to fabricate summit. cheers smithy

Well as you know UK bumpers have fog lights in the bumper, if you wanted to retain that then your bodyshop would have to cut out and fit for you or you can wire up an existing rear light as a fog or fit a fog lower down under the bumper, your choice :D Am on my 3rd rear bumper skirt and shes a UK spec, no probs with fitting. cheers smithy

Who told yer that ? all the rear skirts unless stated otherwise on lukes site and pretty much any other site, will fit either UK or jap spec bumpers. Requires a little tiny mod on the UK number plate area and thats it bud, piece of cake to a bodyshop. smithy

It is worth it mate, as you know N/A discs(aftermarket) are not plentyful, they are a thinner disc and would benefit some from decent TT discs and fitting the TT calipers once overhauled. Add some new fluid and braided lines and jobs a goodun ;)

Auto manual debates have dragged on for years on this forum and others ! it all comes down to preference, try and drive both to get an idea, in the case of the auto though, drive it for quite some time to get a fairer idea of it. I've owned both and like them both equally but for different reasons and thats what it comes down to. In essence am afraid yer question is like how long is a piece of string to be blunt, sozzzzzz :D smithy

1st one mate, however you can move away from those figures a bit and when getting BIG wheels and wide, the offsets can be a lot different. smithy

Hi mate, just replying to yer PM now, but back on this noise, you've also got the extra parts required to run different Cams, so kinda puzzled why there is still a noise. You've had Heavy duty valve springs, cam sprocket adapters and the heavy duty VTC springs, these are what are used to minimise the noise when using bigger cams. You could always ask did they fit the new supplied rings when fitting the cams. cheers smithy

Hi mate, sorry for get backing to yer email, i don't get much time on the net recently! Anyways, as mentioned above the idle air control valve seem likely, see this link from tt.net ( don't forget they are left hookers, lol) http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/iaa/iaa.html Should you decide to do an ECU check http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html Noise wise, could be either ABS or fuel pump noisey. Oh can't see any of them being related to a water pump fitting :) cheers smithy

Can't comment on Z1's clutch as in link as i know no one with it, only thing i will say is the blurb about it being an even softer feel than the RPS sport has gotta be *****cks, simply because the sport is exactly same feel as stock! when new you might possibly feel a very tiny bit of heaviness but other than that, its's as light as they come :) If you went for the RPS sport and say a JWT Flywheel, cost would work out around the same delivered as the kit your looking at. cheers smithy

Hi mate, the vast majority of proven cams are the JWT ones, however even the stage 1 cams require as an extra :- Heavy duty valve springs (£180) cam sprocket adapters if your a pre 93 (£20) and heavy duty VTC springs (£20) thats all ontop of the price of the cams, which is not something many, even with high BHP have fitted. Oh and Z1 charge 400 dollars core charge as the cams are reground from stockies. Go for a nice subtle rebuild mate, you'l be happy with that :) smithy

2 paid for through paypal, address details are with payment. cheers smithy

Still wouldn't really work mate, @310mm it's only 14mm bigger than whats already there, but mainly thicker than anything else, the drum design would not allow for the fronts to be used. You can get bigger rears from stoptech or there is a company now working on bigger rears for zeds and 200's using the Zed 4 pot caliper. cheers smithy

As i said in PM mate, when the parcel arrives, look at the invoice value, add the shipping cost and then convert the final total to pounds, you pay on average 21% of that final amount for customs and in some case a fee of £10-£20 for handling. cheers smithy

Erm the rear discs are actually bigger in diameter than the fronts! the fronts are thicker though hence the 4 pot caliper. smithy

In some cases ANY seller in any country will in order to make the purchase as cheap as possible for the buyer, it's what makes you go back for more if you get a bargain. Of all the companies in the US i have dealt with for 9 years, i don't purchase from Z1, so can't comment. As you have seen the parcels get split up and 1 can go astray or in the case of the turbos, there is so much in the box which is weighty, it is not unusual for bits to be missing and small hole in the box to be found, so double check everything when it arrives ;) cheers smithy

It is rare to get a call from customs late at night, but certainly possible. Chances are it is UPS it has been sent by and the clearing agent is calling you, also yes many are foreign speaking too... Next time they call, they will have the details of sender ( this may not match who you think you bought it from, cos it may have been drop shipped) but more importantly they will have the tracking No., simply ask them which coureir firm is handling it and log on with the tracking No, they gave you. Amount they are asking for is also pretty much correct, it just means that your parcel has been correctly valued, for markgixxer to pay the amount he has, shows it was under valued, which is a dodgy thing when you have over 3k in parcels to arrive ! or he has only been billed for the packages that have cleared. EDIT, just seen yer 2 new posts, lol fedex do not always bill you later and call literally any time for the wonga. You should stil be able to locate parcel even with a "transit" feel free to PM and i'll look if yer like. cheers smithy

Excellant bit of advice there bud :bow: Powertrix ones also come with instructions including pics for fitting. It is also worth mentioning a couple of misconceptions as regards adjustable upper arms. Arms listed as r32/z32 are actaully R32 fitment, whilst they will fit the Z32, the offset where it fits onto the body perch is NOT the same, until the late 90's people fitted r32/z32 arms because of the closeness in their fitting and Z32 only arms were not readialy available. Kuah from SPL in the US discovered this and had his arms manufactured to fit just the Z32 only but using sealed koyo bearings, Powertrix then followed suit. Both SPL and Powertrix state the material used for manufacture and the static load rating of the arms, other companies do not! also they use sealed bearings whereas most cheaper ones use grease nipples. For more detailed info on the importance of using the correct arms, click link below and enlarge if need be to see picture of what can happen if using the incorrect arm. http://www.powertrix.com/Camberarmsinfo.JPG Oh and driftworks, who state none of the important relevant info on their arms, charge 185, plus delivery ? for r32/z32 arms, for the sake of 20-30 quid is it worth it ?? cheers smithy

Oh no, thats even worse than what i put, sorry folks :D smithy

Rules state that if less than 10 years old, it must have the SVA test which cannot be done on a car with an engineers report, which the Zed doesn't have, so it's 2009 until a 99 spec can be brought in and registered on UK roads. smithy

Yep you can wire it in yerself fairly easy, i expect the US looms to be the same as the jap spec ones, so in theory you could pay the extra for the extra bit of wiring and see if it works for you, as far as i was aware only Coz offered the pre wiring plugs so i guess your guy may get a good discount from him perhaps ?. The garage that fitted mine, wired them up in 30mins complete with relays to enable staying on when using full beam, so point being, if yer don't get the wring plugs with your lights, it really is an easy task to do ;) Just a thought, lol, just check if US zeds use the same bulbs as jap specs in Aus and if they do, you know the wiring is gonna be the same then. cheers smithy

I've got the 99 spec ones in my 89/90 Zed, they come with the HID bulbs already installed and the ballast attached to the base of the unit, the unwired version you mention, is just as above and with either 2 or 3 wires tailing off for you to wire into your existing loom, the wiring is same as if you were fitting an HID kit, so no problem to do ;) Though mine is a UK spec, alls the same except 1 wire on the main loom i believe, also wired mine through relays so that when i switched to the full beam light, the main beam ( hid) stayed on. I had HID lights installed before the 99 spec and thought that lighting was great, but with 99 spec units installed, it's even better again :D Oh and yes your right, it's the US guys who need to rearrange the projector to suit their driving on the opposite side of the road. smithy

doesn't the stud fit in from behind the hub and thats what keeps it in place ? never done one meself, but it is a very common breakage on a zed by all accounts so just curious ;) smithy

Hi mate, what engine management are you and yer friend running for the big bhp figures ? ;) smithy