Smithy

That's my boy, now your learning :D smithy

Jeff, your pic looks very much like a shroud with an electric fan, is that the case? :) smithy

Massive debate this one mate, been done soooo many times too. Numerous Zeds don't have one including myself and without any issue. Some have claimed to have an issue once they removed it and some ain't. It just wasn't there to direct airflow, it was also for safety to avoid fingers in moving blades! If you car isn't suffering any problems with overheating, then leave it off :) smithy

Blown a pipe off somewhere when you booted it sounds like imo. smithy

Geez mate, i assume that was just a general remark made without thought eh? As for sponsorship, you've more chance of winning the lottery tbh. I would suggest speaking with Chris aka UNO on here, he can advise you on how online small claims work and what you have to do before using it. It's cheap and easy to do with very little effort on your part and it's amazing how quickly someone will find some money when faced with a county court judgement against them. I've used it before and it's worked for me, just be sensible with it and not greedy. smithy

Yep that's it! Good luck ;) smithy

A/R (AREA RADIUS) relates to the turbine and compressor housing. The small the A/R the quicker the turbo, however not by going too small. Rough memory is Auto's were .53 and the manual .62-64. Most replacement turbo's for the zed are around the .64 mark. That's why you can't really buy an aftermarket turbo for an auto, they are all the same. Big turbo kits tend to be higher than 64 meaning they have more puff at the end Boost wise, yes 15psi is an extreme max. cheers smithy

They are all the same size, it is Only the A/R that differs between the auto and manual. Geez i must have sold about a 100 units! smithy

Jap/Uk same size, Manual/auto same size, turbo A/R on the Auto slightly smaller than the manual. All turbo's T22b's, which is a bit smaller than a T25. Smithy

If it's a bog standard Nissan map with nowt done to it, as the boost increases, the fuel will lean out and cause Dett. A little retard on the timing of a degree or 2 would help eliminate it. smithy

Roughly the longest part is about 4ft mate and that's the middle section. You would tape both of these together to make 1 part, then wrap the back sections seperate, giving you 3 pieces in total. smithy

We already have done before, don't think we'll have a return visit somehow!!! smithy

Pretty costly that i reckon mate. Seeing as the system is in 3 pieces anyway, ask him to pack it as 3 pieces and send it parcel force. It goes as 1 consigment, but you pay less for the 2nd and 3rd piece. Cheapest option imo.:cool: smithy

An Alternator ain't the cheapest option so for the sake of 10mins tightening a belt up, it's worth a try and it's free eh. smithy

Nope not always, depends on exactly which pipe it is and tbh with boost leaks, with some small ones we tend to become accustomed too as every day driving. Deffo do a test but when the engine is warm and cold to be certain. Then let us know how you get on. Your new PTU should have new connectors which in turn connect to your old connectors. The fault PTU's had was heat within the PTU itself, hence the new style. Oh and even connectors being faulty anywhere would show up on an ECU check. smithy

10-15mins mate, couple screws, remove the connectors and job done.. smithy

Ok well i think you have a boost leak mate. It can happen that it manifests itself a wee bit worse when an engine is warm due to pipes becoming more softer with temperature in the engine. Do a boost leak test, dunno how far Vijay is from you, but pretty sure he can help you out if he's nearby, or maybe someone could lend you a tester (with instructions) Oh a faulty PTU that goes with a warm engine, generally will not allow the car to start until it's cooled down again. A good test of this is to put a bag of frozen peas on the PTU after the engine cuts out, 2 mins later it should start lol smithy

Hi mate, you couldn't post a pic of your new PTU could you? Oh and just to confirm, the car cuts out when warm, but does it start again then straight away or do you have to leave it for a while? ta smithy

That ain't his kinda work mate. He's successful because he sticks to a certain type of work. To be honest, needle in a haystack comes to mind when it comes to finding a garage who'll accept another garages **** up/cast off and even worse when it arrives in a load of boxes! smithy

Soz but if your buying stock UK wheels why do you wanna know the offset for ? you'll know they are UK spec if the rears are wider and thats it. smithy

Jesus mate your a glutten for punishement. An engine transplant will involve a fair amount of work and to get it to run right, so your gonna put masses of faith in yet another project with a garage. If you even think in the slightest about this, you MUST find a suitable garage 1st and speak with them before wasting your time and effort. Of course you need to sell all the Zed engine parts you have to fund this and cos they ain't any use to you any more. Really for a no nonsense and far less worry approach about any garage you use, a very high build gauranteed engine from the US, order it, fit it and turn your key and go, simple as that :) Buy the right spec and it will be different and of course that's where the appearance comes in to it to make it unique....... smithy

Am really sure Zedworld don't sell adjustable suspension stuff that you've got from Driftworks, in fact usually when some one rings asking for it, they usually direct them there or the usual ebay. So it was THIS week mate you spoke with them twice? the above is i what i imagine they would tell you. Anyway, am sure there will be a reason why they didn't communicate with you all the way through your dealing with them. No doubt Jeff will see this thread and let you know ;) cheers smithy

It's in the same link as you just posted! Just click the word "aero bonnet hood" smithy

Thing is mate, if you stayed with the Zed, this would be now the 3rd time of wanting to build something special. It ain't worked out for you twice now and both times due to garages involved, so with that in mind who would you fully trust to do it for you without fear in your mind of the same happening again? So with those thoughts, 1st choice has gotta be sell the lot! and then buy the Honda. 2nd choice, sell every engine part you have except turbo's, with the money you would have, buy a complete full and very high spec engine from the awesome Kyle puckett in the US and fit that which Zedworld would chuck in no bother. Then your left to find a decent mapper again. I think that for what you want to have a zed achieve power wise, your wasting your time here in the UK, sozzz Smithy

Sorry meant to add a couple of "may as wells" simply cos they are both very cheap to do now and will save a gearbox off job later on ;) Rear crank seal approx 15 quid. Whilst the auto engine one may be okay now, it's right there in front of you before fitting the gearbox, may as well do it for peace of mind in the future. Clutch thrust/throw out bearing approx 20 quid. Though you'll have one already, you would generally change this item when changing clutches or removing them. Sometimes they are prone to being noisey later on, so may as well do it while your there. Mike Feeney usually stocks these items along with the pilot bushing. Just tell him it's a TT auto engine for the crank seal and then the pilot and thrust bearing is for a manual. (obviously lol) Year is not important if your happy everything is all pre 96. hth Smithy