Smithy

Jap spec TT's have the gearbox auto cooler going through the rad. You can fit a UK spec engine cooler in place of your existing engine cooler and then your small current engine cooler is used for your autobox. smithy Doh edit, should have read Richards post first beore, dohhh lol

Don't you have a cooler attached to your radiator? smithy

Hi mate, as you know 2 main reasons for lack of performance in exhausts, is length and bends. Can't do much about the length on a Zed unless you exit at the front lol, hmm That's why when you look at the Labree in the attached pic, you can see what they do at the Zeds most restrictive part, then reduce the severity of the bends as they go into the back boxes. B+B and SpecialtyZ also do this and tuned their Zeds whilst developing the systems they make. I've a SZ one and is top bannana :tt2: Anyway looking at the other exhausts in the pics below which are simply copies of the stock system, hence their cheapness to manufacture, you can see why yes, quality and decent systems, but don't deliver the goods when chasing those ponies. All this bumph, could be no use to yer, but maybe not, least you know what you need to look for in your intended purchase..... Good luck which ever way you go. Smithy

Flippin eck mate at 250 bucks and at a loss, yer should have just bought a Fidanza or JWT one.. Smithy

http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html smithy

Assuming all the above, no matter what you feel it's only at revs, unless you get on boost, that slight delay in revs could on show in another way and is the true indication, so you'l be in a better position to fix it. Other than that, do a diagnostics, it only takes a few minutes. But 100% you need to get boost, to know if your in safety boost or not and help determine problems.... smithy

No it doesn't, anything you feel like at simple reving the car like a flat spot, once on the road could be a lot different, in short a flat spot now, but far bigger problem when driving, then that will more with a diagnosis . Safety boost would also not cause a flat spot unless you knew what caused the safety boost, which you have no idea you have until you go on the road. IMO if yer engine is running and you have checked all connections are good and can't see any signs of a boost leak and have done a boost leak test, then the next step MUST be to drive it and see what materialises, if anything! Fanny arse around trying to fix summit that you don't know exists before you drive, could make something simple, far worse.... smithy

Stick em on, no issues and no probs fitting them. smithy

Standard is 87mm. Because your heads have been skimmed the gasket thickness you have is stock, the next thickness size up would have been better to get things back to the same. Cometic gaskets start at 88m bore size, worth checking your invoice or box the pistons came in to see what size you have, 87.5 or 88. Ideally bore size of gaskets should be a min of 0.5mm bigger than the pistons. smithy

I think towards the end of your post you clearly answered your own initial question mate :-) smithy

John himself does custom maps with your car at a rolling road and on teh road if need be. Your doing well with that power and on the standard MAF, do you know what spec your turbo's are yet? as in size, or model type etc smithy

In that case if you want simples without chasing the ponies and effective with decent returns, a decent pair of hybrid T25's which are a 4 bolt standard design and will do yer nicely. Again ask turbo dynamics for a price. smithy

Thankfully your not aiming for masses of performance here, so in short you have many options turbo wise. If your looking at costs whilst the engine is out, then for sure do the turbo's now, injectors can be done later with not much labour cost involved when funds are available, if not now. The 600's listed above are pretty powerful turbo's for around 600bhp. You need literaly any 5 bolt turbo to suit the power level you desire, the JWT530 is a nice quick spooling and not to big either. The options at Z1 are endless, if you wish to purchase in the UK, then turbo dynamics do a great t25/t28 hybrid in 5 bolt design and is a very quick spooling turbo. I run these and only a few others that am aware off. 414bhp and 475lbs of torque. No idea on cost though. Oh and manifolds tbh unless your going greater than the 450bhp area, save yer money and add to the cost of owt else. You will see little benefit with manifolds unless you go for the likes of the 600's and bigger, manifolds are shown to really only be restrictive when chasing bigger outputs. If you really want them, then the AMS or Mike smith cast are ideal. You could port your existing ones too if you wanted! smithy

For the 11b's i've never really known them to gapped other than as they come. But some have re gapped the 11c for higher boost. I'd leave as is, i run them like that @18psi. smithy

Thats the 200sx S13 model mate, the earlier version with a 1.8T engine and 2 pot calipers, the S14 is the bigger 2 litre turbo model and looks like the new silvia, in a way lol But yes the S14 cars use the same caliper and pads (fronts) as us. smithy

Well the chip is within the ECU and the chip can be easily upgraded for around 100 quid. However the only mods done are exhaust and intake, yes it would benefit a bit from a chip, it certainly isn't neccessary for the stuff the guy has removed, he's simply made things a bit tidier in the engine bay with less things to go wrong and none of it increases power. Decent advert and not a bad price if as good in the flesh, nowt there i would be fussed about, so check it out if interested. smithy

Change it to what? absolutely no need to change the ECU at all for removing those items fella, makes no difference smithy

Check the EBC listing online mate, pretty sure you'll find the info their and i have a feeling have supplied porterfeilds before to a GTS-T Oh Zedwizz, don't want a nice shiny stainless fuse cover for yours do yer? Smithy

Japan's limit on their cars was 280bhp, for all types... smithy

As far as i was aware the GTS-T uses the same as the GTR32 which yes both use 296mm discs and same calipers as ours. smithy

You MUST already have an upgraded chip with that spec fella and it all depends on what spec/size your turbo's are?? that will determine the extra sort of power levels of 150bhp. Oh and if yer running a true carbon carbon twin plate from RPS, you'll never gain enough power to wear it out, it is literaly desigend for the mega mega high powered zeds and is gauranteed to take what ever you can throw at it. smithy

yes mate that was why i put the link up :cool3: smithy

This any use to you fella http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showpost.php?p=1284614&postcount=1 smithy

That will be your MAP sensor surely fella? Dan's asking about his AFR one ( air fuel ratio) smithy

If you've found the PTU and CAS, next step is to simply clean very thoroughly the connections on these units and the wires that connect to them. A very fine small screw driver to scrape away any crud and contact cleaner or WD40. If that still fails to start then only by swapping the PTU is a sure way of knowing it's faulty, but we can tell you how to test the CAS if she still won't start. Or you can do this other test very easily yourself in 10 mins and should tell you the problem http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html smithy