silverfox

Hi, Just off on a quest for cheaper insurance. Before I ring houghton I thought I best find out my membership number. Where can I see this? Cheers David

I did use spray contact cleaner. Not sure exactly what sort, just some that was kicking around in my uncle's garage. The cogs in mine seemed clean to be honest. My problem was the motor was full of muck. Spraying into the vents and turning the motor by hand had loads of black stuff pouring out of it. I think it had a big build up of carbon or something in it that gave it a rough patch when you turned it. Not sure I would ever have got it perfect. Also, think the contact cleaner might have been doing something nasty to some insulation inside the motor as some tiny bits of yellow plastic came out too! I was kind of wondering where to get a replacement stepper motor from but writing off the car solved my problems! Think 4 hours should be enough although taking the dash apart may take some time if you haven't done it before. David

From what I've seen of the inside of the cluster and odo you would have no problems fixing yours with good bits. Chances are you would simply need the motor from the working odo and leave your own cogs and display bits in place. Very simple fix. If the glass on the cluster is unscratched I would like that! Whoever did the conversion on my current zed was a bit clumsy with the screwdriver!!

Oh yes, mine was a jap import NA. No special screws or tools required. But perhaps that just means it had been clocked!

On my last zed the odometer went a similar way, intermittent then dead completely. I followed all the 'how tos' on cleaning them and I managed to get it back to intermittent :rolleyes: My guess is that with a really good clean you would get it working again. Getting it out didn't take long at all. Guess the length of the job depends on how long you spend squirting contact cleaner into the motor! Good luck David

Hi Cadpaul, I'm just down the road really in Whitley Bay. Mine's an NA rather than a TT and I'm no engineer but will help out if I can. I looked at quite a few before I got mine. Lets just say the quality varies a hell of a lot!! David

Dave, When I did mine I had the car up on axle stands (to do the disks) I took the indicators out and removed the front splash guard and part removed the wheel arch liner. Much much easier then! Think I may have slightly loosened the front bumper just to get anough space to lift the lights out too. There is a 'how to' somwhere that shows the location of the nuts/bolts somewhere... Dave

OK, Think my car is/has been suffering from several causes. The most noticable problem I had was a really bad shudder when pulling away when cold. This seemed to ease when it got warmed up. Thats what prompted me to start looking up threads on vibration problems. I was told when I bought the car that the drive shaft bearing had been done (although I have no documentary evidence to back this up) The obvious thing to try next was the rear gear box mount. Did this and it maded no difference to the shudder. The other symptom I have have is a vibration I can feel through the seat as I pass through the 2-3k rev range. I think this eased a bit when I did the gear box mount but has gone completely now with the new wheel bearing. Didn't do the bearing because I was concerned about vibration, did it as I was terrified the wheel was going to come off. It was truely knackered, wobbling all over the place. Think my shudder problem is more engine related. I haven't got rid of it completely, but cleaning PTU, tmpe sensor & TPS contacts seems to have made a hell of a difference. Read one post suggesting sticky lifter causing this sort of problem when cold. Jack, from what I read think your symptoms sound a bit more like the drive shaft centre bearing mount thing... BarryD, 90 quid sounds pretty damn good to me!! Wish I'd looked into it a bit more. I got the wheel bearing assemble and a new drive hub from MJP. Came to a bit more than that!! Guess you must have had new bearings put into the existing assembly. David

Justin I've just replaced my near side rear wheel bearings and noticed a definate improvement in vibration. Previously I had changed the rear gearbox mount but this hadn't made much difference. David

Just read this in a check list document in another post... I've just had to replace my nearside rear wheel bearing. If I'd damaged an ABS sensor would I know about it from warning lights? Would it just be obvious? Cheers David

Nope, not mine. Mine was a bit more like this ... click! the last time I saw it :cry:

Well, if the red import happens to be my old NA I would love to get my new speakers and stereo back that I didn't get a chance to salvage before the insurance man collected! :( Still have the facia for it though! Wish I had kept track of it, loads of bits I would like to still have! :rolleyes: David

Bloody hell Mac! You left your crossing a bit late! ;)

...and some quite nice pics to share. Having cleaned the PTU, thought I would take the zed for a little spin up the coast. Was heading up to Berwick for a night on the beer. Came back today, roof off along the Northumbria Coastal Route - very nice. Stopped off at Lindisfarne... Probably the closest I will get to contenders for the proposed zed calendar! ;) Trying not to think about the salt water on the causeway!! :( Apologies for the poor photoshopping in the first one! David

Well Pete, you weren't wrong! Spent a long time on Saturday cleaning the PTU and TPS. What a difference!! :D The nasty vibration I was getting pulling away when cold has gone completely! hesitation - gone! Only problem I have is the tickover when cold seems to be 'seeking' a bit. Droping to almost stall then picking up again to about 1.2k. Also tickover when warm seems a tiny bit high, round 900 maybe. The ECU would have been reset (had the battery disconnected for about an hour) Would that explain it or do I still have some work to do? Might just do the grounding kit too! Cheers David

How did you get the lenses apart? I tried and gave up for fear of smashing the glass. I was attempting to heat up the sealant with a hairdryer David

why aftermarket rather than the black leather OEM one? the OEM one fits perfectly! Sure I've seen them on the courstesy web site David

Hi Cos I've got a similar problem with mismatched keys and locks (although I do have remote central locking) Will be interested to hear how much of a pain replacing all the locks is. Also curious about how much a set of locks with a titanium key set you back? David

Cheers Pete, I'll have another go. Looking forward to that new car! :D

Is there a technique for disconnecting the connectors to sensors in the engine bay? The ones I'm thinking of are the ones with the bit of wire round them like the ECU temp sensor connector - that I broke yesterday :( Decided not to have a go at the PTU one until I found out! Cheers David

D'oh! And I thought I had the full set! Never mind :rolleyes:

Hmmm, I've got the jack, the chocks and the wheelbrace. What should be in the tool kit?

Just to echo some of the points made (in earlier replies at least!) I started off with no experience of working on cars when I got my first zed less than a year ago. Since then I have done... oil changes replaced brake disks brake pads and shims cleaned and converted headlights changed wheel bearing and hub All with the advice and links from here (and a bit of help from some friends). My advice is read up on the subject and have a go. The money I'm saving in garage bills is paying for a nice collection of tools and a bit of petrol for the days its back on the road :rolleyes: David

I can live with the spooky pull when I turn off the ignition but it would be nice if they retracted properly so I didn't get them caught in the door when I shut it :( Is there anyway to tension the spring (or whatever makes them wind back in!) or lubricate them? David

glad I'm not the only one! :) very strange...