groover

Looks similar to shellzx if it hadnt had a respray and different front bumper lol, in Northampton, wonder if Voddy or Ratie have seen it before http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-300zx-twin-turbo-/111201576479?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19e421661f

I solved my cylinder 5 misfire: Although i had cleaned the terminals on the injector and the plug, it didnt run well, so i decided to use a needle file on the terminals of the injector and the plug, squirted to some contact cleaner to clear the debris and it now runs fine with no misfire. So give it another go on the injector cleaning :thumbup1: I had the ohms in spec, i could hear it clicking, but as its on the fuel rail you can sometimes mistake it clicking through the vibration of another along the tube of the fuel rail. The only difference of course is that mine was sill running.

UPDATE: ok after changing the maf and running better, i had to sort out the lumpy running issue, found to be cylinder 5, i have spark, so i know its not that, so i got the needle files out and cleaned the terminals on the injector and the plug and Hey presto, no lumpiness now :thumbup: The only issue now is getting the idle to stay down, ive got the idle air at 15% but idle is 950rpm, so tomorrow will check all the hoses and clean the throttle bodies and as much of the plenum as possible as there is oily residue i can see through the balance bar holes.

For indicators? And how bright are we talking?

Andy ( phutumsch) found a supplier i believe, give him a PM, there are some sheets that can be cut to size, it depends on where the feed tracks run on the sheet.

Sad news, but then if you are going to drink and take drugs after having a liver transplant then what did he expect :thumbdown: RIP

Rain and some hard wind here in the south, although its very strong, so far not as bad as its been made out to be, however the night isnt over yet and has gradually got worse over he last hour :whistling:

If you are able to rule out he connector, the next to check is the TCU (time control unit) its an opaque little box on the same bracket as the green fuel pump relay behind the drivers kick panel. Check the connector, then open the box and check he tracks on the board, you may have a burnt track, which depending on how bad it is, you will be able to remake the track user solder and thin wire, I had the same thing happen to me years ago and lost all my dash lights and the TCU was the culprit with a burnt out track on the board. It controls the light dimming, intermittent wiper, interior light dimming etc, so next port of call for you Greg.

Dont you get sea sick anymore?

Marks Audio Corner will now be listed and known as Automodz. For all your car audio needs, interior and body modification :thumbup1:

Do the pods light up?

Car width, so it should just squeeze on lol

Thats the problem bud, i have had so many emails and sent some and get a good initial interest, but so far only a few have been forthcoming. When i mentioned in a previous thread that we are working on something, we still are and hopefully attract some good companies. however, we can have a list as long as your arm of traders, but we, the members need to support our traders, by using them and giving them business to progress. Always open to new ideas though, so dont give up :thumbup:

Ive just disconnected the battery as there is no ecu reset on scantech and no option in the free consult :thumbdown: Fingers crossed :biggrin:

I have reset the codes on scantech and the learning, but will disconnect the battery while im looking at the ptu harness.

As in many instances, we didnt hear back from the Loom company to become a trader, who also happened to be the same guy that Jaikai had been dealing with for his own. Havent heard back yet fro the the clutch company who recently inquired, but he has been away in the US all week so may get a response. Twinz product availabilty in this country already explained why in previous posts, cost of stocking all products and numbers of products too high, along with their business acumen is not appealing to any UK company. You yourself have spoken to several companies and where did you get?

Update, i got another MAF loaned courtesy of Bri (Znut) and the car runs better, however i have cyl5 down, so still running slightly lumpy and definitely down on power compared to before, so i had a multitude of issues aside from the MAF. voltage reading on both MAF's on scantech is 1.24v, yet my MAF makes it run like a pig, so must be another component in the MAF that has died. Will now re check the coil pack on 5, injector and ptu plugs and terminals and hope that it is an electrical issue and not a cylinder down :scared:

MAF diameter is 80mm, i have one in front of me :thumbup:

Whilst i appreciate that all zeds are likely to be prone to rust, is the rotting sill syndrome more associated with the UK model and how many of the membership have a UK model in comparison to Jap spec, so as usual im sure, it would depend on the demand to warrant such an investment.

As mentioned, its not normally the gauge itself but the oil sender in the oil filter area if its a TT other side of the block on an N/A under the engine mount

Also use a multimeter to do a continuity test from the ptu plug to coil packs, to eliminate a break in one of the wires.

I didnt say that you have sorted the electrical issues lol , i said if all electrical tests havent pinpointed the problem then do a compression test, obviously you havent finished the electrical side yet, but next step as Noz mentioned, take out the plug at cyl5 connect coilpack and hold the metal body of the plug against the plenum to see if you have spark, if you do then you know its not the coil packs. With balance tube back on obviously :biggrin:

If all electrical tests havent pin pointed the problem, i would look at doing a compression test.

Modelling a class T shirt :thumbup: