groover

you can upload pics, they will not be deleted, as long as you dont try to sell, link to, or accidentally on purpose make it a sale thread of any type. I hope you manage to join before, you know what :slap:

Unfortunately Haynes never saw fit to include the z32 in their library, shame

semi synthetic is recommended, best of both worlds, As to the make, there has been alot of discussion on here, search the oil threads and in particular opie oils thread HTH

drivers footwell, next to the accelerator pedal http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=66739

Well done Kim, im so gutted i couldnt come this year, im hoping i can get there next year as long as the jae organisers announce the dates earlier lol

Already in the faq section lol, does no-one bother looking there first

thats right................ she keeps spilling it..................down her throat:x:

Yes Joel both the same, although i cant understand why i paid more at my local Nissan dealer

pm sent

That might explain it, my car ran well before i had it serviced for the first time in march 08' ( not the first time it was ever serviced, the first i had done owning the car) it was fitted with a blueprint cambelt and i have to say over the period of a year, i have encountered, det sensor (N/A so not as important as a TT) but still annoying, as i get pinking under 3k revs or under load. More recently, seems very sluggish, so it has affected other factors in the engine possibly eg: timing may be out slightly, my tps is out a bit after a consult check anyway, which wont help. It ticks over fine,but does have a bit of hesitation sometimes, but i roughly know what causes that. Could this be a possibility or am i barking up the wrong tree? Cheers Graham

Cant wait to see some pics of the cars, im so gutted i cant go this weekend, picked my new van up this morning and just finished kitting it out, working near Ipswich tommorrow, wont get back till 6am, so dont want to risk the drive on sunday with no sleep for what might be a couple of hours left of the show. Hope it goes well

Sorry to hear that Steve, im glad i had the chance to meet you last year at JAE and i would like to thank you for not only the support you gave to me, but to the club as a whole. Give yourself a breather and see what happens........ All the very best to you Graham

The oil filter is the same for the TT as the N/A Nissan part:A5208 H890C

If you are doing the odd job here and there, its not necessary, but if you want to offer the service to other members, as an ongoing venture, then worth posting your details and a brief summary of what you offer. Cheers Graham

I just bought a filter A5208 H890C and sump plug washer, 1102601M02 for my N/A at my local nissan dealer came to £8.92 total with the vat. HTH Graham

Here you go mike "Heres a copy of something I wrote a while ago on another site OK heres the rub. Lots I dont know but car air con I do. In simple terms. Old cars (pre 1994 ish) R12 refrigerant (now illegal) and schraeder type valves with a non compatible oil. New cars (post 1994) R134a and quick release fittings with PAG oil. Even if you change the fittings you can't just put R134a in the system for two reasons. 1st it runs at a higher pressure (pressure also directly relates to temperature) so the amount of refrigerant installed must be reduced. Also the old old oil will not mix with R134a so will starve the sytem of vital oil and seize the compressor. So the way to do it properly is Recover the R12 and dispose of properly. Remove compressor and drain oil. Re-fill with an esther oil which will allow any remianing oil to mix with the new refrigerant and keep components lubricated, re-fit compressor. Fit new quick release adaptors Re-fill system with 30% less R134a than it would normally take in R12 Check for leaks Hey presto done" I thank you

its Romaine's car http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=129705

I have a dremmel and i bought a cheapo from maplins. Not a lot in it and the maplins one came with all the attachments for £20 Its not as if its used every day, so i wouldnt bother spending mega bucks on one for those one off jobs HTH

Done lol

You can use bostick or uhu glue, you are trying to create a very thin film. The most important area is the centre of the dial, as the needle needs to sweep effortlessly. Try not to get any glue too near the centre hole as it will be hard to remove from the few mm of the original black face that still show by the needle. I have tried superglue in the past but it can be brittle once cold and can lift. Superglue gel is better as its slightly more forgiving with the temp differences in the cabin. So in short you are looking for a glue that has a good temperature range when cured. I even used pritt stick in the past which worked well, but make sure its brand new and not been in your draw for years, as it becomes elasticated and can leave lumps. Hopefully you get the idea. Finally, you are not looking to saturate or completely cover the whole face with glue. Use sparingly round the edge of the dial and the centre, the idea is that your are applying a flat surface to a flat surface. Just take your time and all will be good.

really easy, make sure you use the right glue, or it will lift and catch the needles. The oil pressure and turbo guages dont need to be glued, the old face comes off by removing a couple of mini screws. you would need to undo the 3 screws of the speedo and 3 screws of the turbo guage to remove from the binnacle, same for the rev/oil pressure. No need to take off needles,they slip over the existing face. Finally be careful not to bend the face as you are looking to get the new face as flat as poss. HTH

Congrats Paul, about time.................................. all that hard work paid off lol

NA Hot type PFR5B-11 Standard type PFR6B-11 Colder types PFR7B-11 I went for standard i think, cant remember i didnt fit them lol

Use a long extension bar to avoid hitting the bulkhead, i have a huge extension bar with a big handle, that would crack anything( including fingers lol)

21mm crows foot socket, or you could smash the top of the sensor to get a socket over it, if you are replacing it anyway tool from these http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q=W84008&btnG=Google+Search&meta=