groover

Or an inline fuse to the stereo from the acc feed.

Accessories fuse in the drivers footwell

What about an N/A?

Have a read through this Craig, might give you more of an idea http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=99309

Ok, you still have the convertor connected, yep disconnect it so its back to stock and you may find the problem with the steering cured. You can either buy a more expensive convertor than the ebay cheapies or do what most do and go for UK clocks

Could be the alternator, spray some contact cleaner or lubricant water penetrator in and around the pulley. You might have some grit or crap in it.

Its normally the other way round, the power steering will go heavy if the speedo signal is intermittent or fails. The duff convertor would have caused it while connected, but wouldnt have caused anything after disconnection. Is your speedo consistent? ie reading all the time and at what speed or when does it happen?

You can get them for half that price from HK, you wait a little longer, but thats where the seller would have got them in the first place. The festoon fitting needs to be 31mm unless you are going to be hard wiring.

I dont like that shape, looks a bit dated now, i love the newer shape, DB9 or DBS.

A 1mega ohm resistor has Black/Brown/Red/Green and a gold stripe, so i guess most of the pics being used on ebay are generic pics of resistors. I ran down about a dozen of the ads claiming 1 m ohm and none of the colours came close lol. Buy some, as the price is negligible and check the colours.

As above, would love one, but couldnt afford it lol, but these guys have a creation that would fit the bill. Quantum cars, inspired by the movie, Quantum of solace, check it out and let me know what you think http://www.mi6cars.com There are some more pics on their facebook page.:drool: [img[http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=57258&stc=1&d=1290035873[/img]

Thats for a Z31, but ours do have the light control box on the rear lights. Check the box for water or damp. If its not on its slider on the rear drivers panel, it tends to end up in the bottom corner of the boot where it will get filled with water and short the board. If its really corroded or components are falling off the board, best get another from a breaker. If its not too far gone, may be able to dry it out and give it a spray with some contact cleaner. Check the box first and go from there.

Yes they are mad :wink: Not possible on stock internals, if it were, would last about 5 mins lol

We have T- shirts in our club shop, colour sizes available.

Could it be this one http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=144465

Thanks for the link Dave. Do you still have to have the plate welded or will the tightening of the nut and bolt be ok? Cheers Graham

I have at the moment an N/A auto. I have a manual front prop piece and a 1 piece manual prop for when i do the conversion. Looking at the measurements of both the auto and manual prop, the manual prop is longer, so my question is, how can a manual prop fit an auto box? Cheers Graham

Out of interest, how would you get the VG engine in the rear to work, transmission wise?

That seems a bit steep for a bit of welding, its not like replacing a couple of sills or am i just out of touch with the price of services? :blink:

I think as usual the ad has been hyped. If you had rebuilt the engine with all the new mods, i would expect it to look cleaner and tidier than it does lol Who knows for sure until its been on a dyno

Hi Chris, my current engine is tappety and the vvt springs need replacing, the prop centre bearing or UV joint is "knocking underneath like a fat kid at the door of the sweetshop" :smartass: I got an engine on a stand in my garage which ive been overhauling,from a manual car, new gaskets cambelt etc.. polished rocker covers, pipes, plenum and bypass, stainless manifolds, got rid of the EGR and anything else it can live without. It is a lower mileage one too from a known car. Then ive got the manual box to go in with a single lightweight prop. So when its fitted i may as well get it mapped properly. I could sort my current engine out, but the prop is for a manual and it will be nice to have a tidy of the engine bay when its out.

I would love to, but working in Birmingham on the 28th at the nec metropole for a party for Witherspoon and will be in the van lol

No not really, but i just got some UK door cards and getting the seat belts. I have some alcantara door panels im recovering them with, but they are also from a UK car. I dont want to have to cut the panel to fit the Jap door card, unless i have too. I got the rear seat belts aswell to replace the lap belts, but the mounting points are there for the rear.

It depends how and what the chip is mapped for. It may have had more grunt because of overfuelling on the map. I would get a chip mapped properly to suit the mods of your car, I bought a chipped ecu which has a Devlin chip, but it has an agressive map and the VVT doesnt come in till about 6000revs, which is fine if your constantly flooring it, but not good on fuel lol. When ive replaced the engine, im going for a remap.

Lol, good anecdote. I havent welded since i was at college, many moons ago and by the time i hire a welder and practise, may as well get it done by a pro.