groover

Yes mate the O2 sensor flange, just catches the steering rod. Turning right is fine, but it squeaks when turning left or pulling away hard, so rubs just enough to score the paint covering on the rod. A bash with a hammer to gain the few mill clearance or get the flange moved and hole welded up.

So minor Gary that it should have passed really, considering what i thought it may fail on, but yes should fly through on Monday.

Its the same garage Dave, they got rid of the idiot that was responsible for the first blunder, then it flew through last year with the same guy who tested it today, so unless he forgot, who knows. I did prove the age there and then and he was happy with proof, so just the japspeed manifold rubbing to sort out. A few things i thought he might pull it up on, he was fine with eg: my battery has never been secured :turned:, my front torsion bar, bush is split as it was last years MOT ( i have new bushes to go in) but he passed it, one rear exhaust mount is missing, i had it in the boot just incase, but no he let that go. Must have been in a mood today :devil:

As above really on two stupid items, one was the examiners fault = emissions, i had to prove that the car was 1990 let alone trying to explain that the zed isnt in the database, but he said now that they need proof for a pre cat test. I took it to him last year with no problems, so i wonder why it should be any different this year :thumbdown: Second item, which to be fair i knew about, but after double checking everything was working i totally forgot to sort it = the japspeed drivers manifold touching the steering rod :oops: forgot to hammer it :cursing: Anyway its going back in monday for the retest which it will now pass, so im not too unhappy :phone:

My little one loved it, cheers for the link Jane.

Happy Birthday Chris, have a good day

I knew that lol The static rolling radius is the distance from the middle of the wheel to the road surface when the car is stood still, which is about 5mm. So after calculating the percentages the difference in speed is 3.0% slower than the stock tyre So when your speedo reads 60mph you will actually be doing 61.8mph.

I think the percentage difference for the speedo accuracy is negligible with the extra 5mm wall height, something like a couple of mph over at certain speeds rather than under. I did see the calculation somewhere will try and see if i can find it again.

Welcome Rob, nice looking zed, be good to see some more pics when you get the chance. To place rides in the member section you need to be subscribed for that facility im afraid. Enjoy the forum and theres lots of useful info and friendly peeps to help out. Graham

Either you have put the fog switch on by mistake, although that will only light up the side lights and fogs if fitted, failing that then there is a little black box behind the drivers rear panel in the boot, its a rear light control box, people have had some problems recently with the little box.

Happy Birthday Jimmy, have a good one :pint::pint:

Auto to manual conversion in here http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=53 I got rid of all the excess unnecessary pipe work and bought a master to slave stainless clutch hose from the zcentre for about £20, so much easier.

All the best Jeff, hope you have had a nice day

Happy Birthday mate, have a nice day

Nice to see you back Jimmy, hopefully get to loving the zed again eh. :thumbup1:

Happy birthday mate, hope you have a nice day.

I doubt you have 16 flashes, but try this A/T Diagnostics: 1. Have the engine at normal operating temperature, in P with the overdrive switch on. 2. Start engine. The AT light should go out after 2 sec. 3. Turn the ignition off. 4. Move selector to drive D by using the Push Release button. If not equipped, use the brake pedal 5. Set overdrive switch to OFF. 6. Wait 2 seconds and turn ignition switch ON. 7. Wait 2 seconds and move selector to 2. 8. Set overdrive switch to ON. 9. Move selector to 1. 10. Set overdrive switch to OFF. 11. Depress accelerator pedal fully and release it. 12. The codes will begin to flash. Theres one long flash that signifies the start of the sequence. Following should be 10 short flashes. Then it repeats. Error Codes Key: All 10 flashes the same = No error codes detected. 1st flash longer than others = Revolution sensor is shorted or disconnected. 2nd flash longer than others = Speed sensor circuit is shorted or disconnected. 3rd flash longer than others = Throttle sensor circuit is shorted or disconnected. 4th flash longer than others = Shift solenoid "A" circuit is shorted or disconnected 5th flash longer than others = Shift solenoid "B" circuit is shorted or disconnected 6th flash longer than others = Overrun clutch solenoid circuit is shorted or disconnected 7th flash longer than others = Lock-up solenoid circuit is shorted or disconnected 8th flash longer than others = Fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or A/T control unit power source circuit is damaged. 9th flash longer than others = Engine revolution signal circuit is shorted or disconnected 10th flash longer than others = Line pressure solenoid circuit is shorted or disconnected All the same with no long start flash = Battery low, been disconnected, or control unit has just been reconnected.

The little white box ( TCU= time control unit) also controls the light dimming for the dash, i would get hold of another TCU and get your intermittent wipers working again.. Most likely a burnt out track in the TCU, which is not uncommon, but most likely the root of your recent problems.

Hi and welcome to the club, seems like you have some work to do, but nothing impossible. Sills are available from MJP our trader here on the forum. Get some pics up when you can so we can see what she is like. Cheers Graham

:happybday: many happy returns:happybday:

:happybday: Have a great day :happybday:

Its rear light control box it senses a bulb out through the circuitry and lights a, bulb out light on the dash.

Hi Martin, the drivers TB is the same on both models, the pass side on the TT has an extra vac pipe inlet.

Generally the services to members section is only a listing, it is available for someone who is offering a service that isnt their main core business but has a service that is useful for members, like me doing led conversions for those who want them. Yours will fundamentally be a business, although not fully established yet, you can offer your services to the members initially as an ongoing service, but you will not be able to directly advertise via a website link, so would be listed in the directory as a member offering a service. To be able to fully advertise as a business with links you would need to upgrade to trader status at £100 per year, then you would get your own section to advertise and promote the business in. You would need to be subscribed first anyway or email me with your contact and business details if you want to become a trader groover@300zx.co.uk Cheers Graham

Once subscribed, we can add you into the services to members section until your business takes off. Then as a bonafide business you might want to become a trader, the fee is £100 per annum, but you then get your own section in the trade area of the forum, which is dedicated solely for you to promote your business.