groover

i was working from a 5 band resistor where band 4 the multiplier, but it does make sense that the ohmage is too high, 4700 i im surprised you got any light at all lol Send me an EMAIL groover@300zx.co.uk with your address i have hundreds of 470 and 520 resistors, i will send you a pack. Cheers Graham

Should still be bright, have you made sure the dimmer is up full on the dash? What are all the colours on the resistor, you may have too higher resistence making them dim. Also and i have had this in the past with red leds where the positive and negative had been reversed in the led and the long leg was on the - leg, is your led clear so you can see the diode shape in the dome? long leg + should be the small filament in the led.

You need a resistor on an led to prevent overheat and complete destruction of the led. Place the resistor on the long + leg of the led. They then will only light one way when plugged into the dash or pod. Yellow violet and red is 472 ohms so should be fine.

All the best Stu, have a great day :punk:

Oil? We thought that about Iraq and look where thats got us lol

Biggest mistake ever breaking up the British Isles, we would still have to fund Scotland if they went independent, so they only want to be independent of rules and laws, infact some of the laws are different up there, but cant see what the benefit is, or is it because i dont really care lol

You probably wont be able to re solder the whole track, too much heat, be better off cutting the track that is hanging off and buy yourself r a repair kit, which is basically a metalised paint pen and redraw the track http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_203667_langId_-1_categoryId_255229

Not a nice sight to wake up to in the morning, i feel for you Dean, but sue Network rail and you might do alright out of it all.

Time control unit in the footwell, im only suggesting the route not the main cause. Check the tracks on the rear window and the plug.

Are your wing mirror heaters after market addition wired to the rear demist button or factory? Check the tracks on the rear window for any obvious breaks or deep scratch, check the wire and connector to the window and make sure the plug hasnt semi snapped off. IIRC the rear demister runs through the TCU as its a timed device turned off to prevent overheating, check fuse.

Happy Birthday Chris, hope you are enjoying it :punk:

The viscous fan is supposed to be turning or do you mean the electric fan? if the electric fan is on constantly then your left temp sensor is either duff or corroded connection. It will affect the fuelling, so check that first.

Yes Dave you are right, i have a pdf convertor anyway that deals with it all lol

You can also open up the pdf file, highlight. copy and paste to word.

Move the invertor for the dials away from the dash bunnacle more

Bernie must be a nightmare to work with, he doesnt seem to do bugger all in this series, lets everyone else do the work, considering he builds engines lol

Yes they pay for the banner too, a trader has an option to have a banner at extra cost, but we are having a discussion at the moment to change the whole trading arena for the benefit of traders and members.

MJP sells them here :yes:

FYI Adrian Flux are an insurance trader on this site and not a sponsor.

Have a great day Daz, nearly catching me up now you old bugger :biggrin:

you dont need the convertor with UK clocks.

Top up through the filler pipe, using a funnel and hose. Use dextron 2 or any atf fluid.

His wife wasnt Glory Hole, by any chance:lol::lol:

Try JeffTT at zedworld, he may have one in ready to go.

The after market ally or TT rad is thicker than the N/A, iirc you need to modify the bottom brackets to fit, top brackets just stop it moving about and as far as fan shroud, i binned mine, its not essential on an N/A for cooling and have noticed no rise in temps in over a year of not having it.