groover

Rad is really easy to remove, obviously drain water via the drain plug on the bottom drivers side of rad, remove top hose and bottom hose, remove the two brackets on the crossmember and the rad will lift out. Mind the rubber mounts on the bottom of the rad, may fall off and drop under the car and you may forget about them till its to late lol. Headlights: sounds like a short or open circuit on the lighting ring, if the fog/switch was touched, start there first to eliminate it from your search.

You say it fails at the same speed everytime! is that with or without the convertor on each dash? If not it may be an issue with the speed sensor in the gearbox, try the clocks without the convertor, although in KMs it may well tell you if its the clocks or the convertor

Section half way down the page here http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=48699&d=1244586707

Many clocks suffer at some point with one issue or another involving the speedo or oddometer. A duff convertor or insufficient contact on the screws is one cause. The screws have a wax like coating which needs to be cleaned to make a good contact. The wiring should be standard 12+, 12- 2p for signal, obviously green/yellow spliced which is the orignal signal in. Another problem is dry joints on the speedo board itself, not the plastic film on the back of the dash, but around the R10 resistor tracks on the board. You will need to take the clocks apart and take out the speedo dial removing 6 screws for the turbo and speedo gauge and one at the top (100k). Resolder the tracks with new solder and hopefully job done. http://pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.321

Ideally for the iacv yes, needs to be up to temp. Setting the tps can be done cold as its an electronic adjustment, but may as well do both at the same time, TPS first though.

Happy birthday mate, if you fill in your date of birth in your user settings, then you can get a HB thread automatically next time lol

No you just need to reset it, use a multimeter to get a reading of .44-46v, unplug the tps feed, start engine, then plug it back in while engine is running, the ecu should then read it correctly. If you need to adjust the iacv, unplug, adjust the idle screw till just before stalling, plug back in iacv plug and the ecu will then take over the idle.

As above, i think you can put the pas pulley on in reverse, to bring the angle out, but best to use an N/A belt and pulley.

The only mods they are interested in are performance enhancement mods,having alloys, stainless exhaust are considered a replacement according to my ins co anyway. I did declare a whole list of stuff last year and didnt make any difference on the N/A

I have always wanted a zed since it first came out, but couldn't afford it at the time lol. Its not a car to me, like an everyday tin can on 4 wheels, its a passion and i love it as much now as the day i bought it in 2007. I'm fortunate enough to be able to do all the work on it myself, which may make the difference to those who cant and i can imagine its a pain in the ass when something goes wrong and you have to take it to a garage, but at the end of the day its a 20+year old car and cant expect the reliability of a new vehicle, although if well maintained there should be no reason not to have the reliability. Apart from a handful of cars imo, there isnt alot on the road that gets any where close to the presence and looks of the zed. I will be keeping it till i die and probably have another with it, either a TT or V8 conversion :thumbup:

Happy Birthday Ian, hope all is well in your world. :happybday:

Mine with a car mad lip and fog ducts, in primer still :whistling:

Without doubt you have the series 2 aircon pod and ecu lol

You know what, when my whiteline drop links died after two weeks ( garage didnt grease them) i ran for a while with no front anti roll bar and felt no difference whatsoever lol

Quite apt though for Mark :lol::lol:

As above OBD no good for the zed

If you are using a series 2 air con pod, ie pic of the seat in the window, with a series 1 ecu you will not get the ambient temp figures in the window, just some dashes. Series 2 pod and ecu, you will get a pic of a fan in the window and direction, when pressing the buttons along with the temp figure, but no second digit ambient temp figure.

TT is thicker/solid than the N/A one iirc

Yes still works but the readout goes to pot lol. And you wont get the features without the ecu.

Matching the marks on the backing plates is one thing, getting the correct mark for the crank is another, you may be as much as a tooth out at the crank which will make all the difference. On a genuine belt there are 5 timing marks to get aligned and if as you say you used a non genuine belt ( no timing marks?) you will not get it timed properly for love nor money as the amount of teeth between each mark is also a major factor.

Nice to see you are still sticking with her Dave :thumbup:

Targas fit the same, just the UK ones have a foam border at the front, which means you cant fit jap sun blinds without removing it.

As above, with a non genuine belt, you probably havent got all the timing marks on and they are crucial for lining up with the sprockets. The timing marks on the rear plate are for reference points only. If your cas is turned fully then timing definitely out.

I assume they are being made, you can reply to the email, sent by SFS, if Anthony isnt around ( as said due to health reasons)

Heres one http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.558 But i did see another somewhere referring to taking the mechanism apart to fix the spring, will try and dig it out Link doesnt go where i want lol, find interior/seat belt retraction