groover

Bless her, fortunately kids are quite resilient and she will forget about the pain once its all over, but yes, must be hard for you to watch her go through it. Lucky for her she has a nurse at home to look after her :thumbup1:

There have been many discussions concerning the twins distribution, the only place is twinchip in Europe, they expect too much from a UK distributor to make it viable, which is why so far it hasnt happened. Jeff at Zedworld was looking into it.

You can leave the pipe as is if your just changing the box, usually in a conversion, its advisable to get the braided hose, to eliminate the long bleed pipe to the top of the wing. Brake fluid is fine for clutch and you only need about quarter litre if that.

Sorry Kev i should have read the post more clearly lol. You can use your own flywheel bolts, new ones are very expensive, you can use some thread lock on the bolts to aid loosening. Crankshaft seal: are you talking front of engine and rear of engine, or the gearbox rear seal where the prop enters?

Catback are different lengths i think, down pipes may not, the discs will fit with no modification and rears are the same on the TT and N/A

Your basically after a clamping effect to hold the speaker onto the card, you wont be screwing to the metal on the door.

Also do yourself a favour and buy a master to slave braided hose for the clutch, about £20 and does away with the unnecessary pipework and easier to bleed. Again can be bled at the engine bay for ease before fitting.

Too high a boost maybe

Do you mean the rear crank seal or front seal? you dont need to take off the cranshaft bolt for the rear, but the torque for the crankshaft centre bolt is 216-235nm Gearbox oil sae 75w/90 and you need 3.1 litres, the bolt/plug on the drivers side of the of the box is to fill and the i found the best way to fill from a bottle, is to use some clear hose/pipe about 3ft long, feed the open end into the gearbox filler hole and feed the pipe up through to the engine bay, stick a funnel on the end of the pipe and fill. I found connecting the pipe straight to the bottle created a bit of an air lock and was a bitch to fill, unless you squeeze the shit out of the bottle. You fill till it starts to spill out the hole, basically ideally it needs to be level with the bottom of the hole. You can re use the bolts for the flywheel ( did the bolts come with the flywheel?) Auto fly only has 4 bolts. same for the pressure plate bolts. You can get the crank seal, collars and bushing for the gearstick, and manual bush from MJP, you will need to remove the auto bushing where the input shaft enters the crank and replace with a manual bushing as they are different sizes. Here are the details for the GB plate Tightening torque of bolts, if you have Nissan bolts, they will have a number stamped on the bolt, so use this for reference Hope this helps

Oh i must have missed that thread, even so, i thought the garage gave a warranty.

Jesus, that well and truly blew itself apart lol

This was Sonics old car and now on ebay for spares as a non runner , if Colin comes on let us know. I thought it had a warranty with the garage. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-300ZX-TWIN-TURBO-UK-MANUAL-TARGA-INTERIOR-BUMPER-EXHAUST-BREAKING-/251160130315?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a7a4f730b

Lukes is candy apple red, thats more like a lambo orange/bronze

You can put some slats of wood behind the panel to screw the speaker to, its seems the previous owner tried to screw it directly to the cardboard panel.

You can get a 501 led to plug straight into the original bulb holder if you still have it, rewiring should be real easy too

Happy Birthday Mikey :happybday:

Shame you spent time looking for the links on other sites, when i put them up here lol http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?128849-Headlight-disassembly

They are the same but the arm rest is slightly shorter on the swb.

Happy Birthday Dave, hope you have a nice day

The stock speakers are fixed to the door with a factory plate, its likely you are after the plate or an unabused door card. I take it the grill is missing? maybe a grill will cover the hole made for the 6x9 and you can mount a speaker back in the original housing.

Welcome back Bri, look forward to working with you again.

Isotta is nicer, i have the zulag and love it

TT injectors and a remap, but unless you have uprated the internals i doubt you would gain very much. I would concentrate on rebuilding as much of the spare engine you have with new parts, pistons rings, conrods valves etc, newer/tighter uprated parts are more likely to give you more bang for the buck as well as reliability than getting more fuel into an old tired engine imo. There are some threads on the US site listing everything needed to get some decent power but at the end of the day, it would be cheaper getting a TT engine and rebuilding that to fit in the NA.

So you went for the 90mm sitting on the outside of the ring instead of the 70mm inside the ring? Really hard to get pics as they are so bright, but as you know i have them, so must love them too :thumbup:

Hi Mo, welcome to the club. There are no zed specialists in London unfortunately, but there is D2 in Kent and a few members who know their way around the zed depending on what you are after. JeffTT at Zedworld, coleshill, Birmingham is the zed specialist.