jaffa

i was interested in the pad dimensions so i could compare to other BBK, as though they are 8 pot the caliper looks quite small. I'm quite interested as it seems an easy way to move up to 2 piece disks.

Smithy, What size pads does the kit use and any feedback from people with it fitted to the 300zx?

could be tempted... :)

I'm with MCE with an agreed value policy

power seems right, maybe should be a bit higher at that boost. You've disconnected the correct plugs, and reconnecting them will in turn give you more boost as you discovered. The juddering could be a small vacuum leak re the O2 sensors, they're not used when the engine is cold so that's not what's causing the juddering

it looks soo boring drag racing in an auto! still, he looked surprised when the clio came back :)

only one way to find out, get yourself to next z club drag day :)

Should be picking her up next week :dance: Then I can start running her in...

Macca, I hate being drawn into who's faster than who, but how much did yours weigh? I'm guessing around 1650kg? Only asking as there's not much real data around with actual weights rather than dry weights quoted in magazines PS when will the fuel pump work be finished :)

a good set of pads make a big difference, but those same pads with the R33 setup are even better :)

sounds great to me, hopefully mine will be similar (without the drivability issues!)

fronts are ok, though you'd probably want a 5mm spacer for a better fit. Rears are too wide unless you have a wide arse, max is about 10" on the rear on stock arches. The offest is quite high too so even you roll the arches you'd need 10-20mm spacer on the rear to stop it hitting the suspension

have you diconnected the stock boost solonoids? I would: 1) ensure they're diconnected 2) turn off the boost controller,(equivilant of 0% duty) this should net a solid 7psi if there are no leaks. 3) fix leaks! 4) If there are no leaks, then you've got the plumbing wrong, it's very easy to splice into the wrong vacuum lines. 5) Also ensure the length of vacuum hose is the same for both sides to the solonoid and back to the original lines, you want to keep things balanced. 6) set duty to 40%, then work you're way up. PS you should hit 1 bar by around 3.5k rpm when everything is running right! Then the car will be quick :)

here's the guide I used http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/avcr/avcr.html

no, ecu will make no difference to the duty level needed. Zeds with similar mods will need around the same duty level too. Do you have any vacuum leaks?

lol, you're impatient. I have my AVC-R set to around 40% duty to hit 1 bar. With fewer mods and when I first set it up I think it was around 60%. Are you sure it's configured correctly?

what happened?

these are from the Macralren F1 race car, not the SLR. They're cheap as they're memorative, not functional

no, R32 are the same as the Z32. Only the R33 & R34's are upgrades

the front one is the coolant expansion tank. The one pictured is the washer bottle for other models, but as you say, yours is in the back

i though you had to have adjustable tension rods when using adjustable camber arms?

they are well suited, but you'd need a lot of complementing mods to make the most of them (forged engine, manifolds, injectors,intercoolers etc) They are bigger than the GT600R if you're referring to the Z1 models. The 600R is the same as the GT28R, still a good turbo, similar to the JWT530BB PS I have them as part of my inprogress build :)

if it's the one i'm thinking of it's a sr20 from a 200sx

ouch! you must be missing her

how long have you had it off the road?