jaffa

Do it from a roll and you'll easily win. Standing start the db9 will take it, to start with at least and you may catch up with him again.

bingo. do you still have the old one to test if it still happens with that one on? The desgin of some filters can cause this, there is a way around it by shielding the filter from direct air from the bumper (assuming you don't have the stock shield in place anymore)

most likely the bov's need adjusting or the airfilters stalling the air

do you have BOV's?

285 width tires will rub on the rears, stick to 275 and you'll be ok

nice, what's the plan with the rear arches?

Hi, I have a boost leak from the butterfly shaft seal, can they be rebuilt with fresh seals? Secondly, can someone with a TB hangin around measure the stock size of the seal. I'm running larger TB's but am hoping that the seals are the same. Dimensions of mine are I.D 10mm O.D 18mm Thanks!

3.5 bar is good for 2.5 bar boost and is plenty for most Zed :) (you allow 1bar for vacuum)

cheers guys, will be in touch as things progress :)

As per the title really, have a really interesting opportunity though would mean taking the Zed off the road for the next 12-18months. Would be interested to hear people's thoughts and experiences.

That would make sense given the solaris ECU ;) Ryan maps mine too and he's a good guy

where did you get the ecu connector from in the end?

Personally, I'd relocate the PCV system to the top of the rocker covers and see how that helps before bothering with a catch tank.

it wasn't the crankcase pressure that was the problem, it was the vast quantity of oil sitting in the catch tank leaving very little in the sump ... Castle coombe is pretty much all right hand bends and using the stock pcv area on left side of the engine for the catchtank pick up was just sloshing oil into the tank.

not done anything on mine yet, but it isn't hugely lowered either. Was looking at the driftworks hubs which lower the car by around 50mm but keeps all the geometry in line, not sure if they'll work on the 300 though.

Jimmy, have you done anything to correct the roll centre given how much you've lowered the car?

who does their mapping these days?

nice! what do you think of the solaris?

looks to be the same as the skyline and s13/s14/s15 based on this link http://www.rhdjapan.com/field-one-touch-coupler-engine-harness-extension-nissan-pt1-55225 and another company that supply them http://www.boomslang.us/extension.htm

you should decide what you think high boost is and work backwards. I have mine capable of 30+psi and base boost is 18psi as a result. If you want less boost in the wet just use less throttle!

you attach compressor to the vac line and see what pressure is needed to open it and adjust accordingly

bear in mind that if you set it too low it will limit your max boost pressure

I had a 540 estate and it was a great car, however I will say they are expensive to maintain so the M5 will be worse!

has there been any successful T-56 manual swaps? with an NA rear end that could be fun and probably still cheaper than getting an OS Giken gear and synchro kit for the stock box.

glad you at least know what's going on now but still sucks. I'll give you my theory, based purely on what I've seen posted here and Kyle's reputation as an engine builder on the US sites. I reckon that the garage set your car up without the electric fan on and cooked the engine. Realised their mistake, configured fan to come on etc and finished 'mapping' it and handed it back saying the electric fan isn't good enough. I say 'mapping' as your fuel consumption hardly points to a well set up car. Most companies are not familiar with the Zed and make assumptions. When my car was first set up on the dyno to get the AEM going, the elec fan was controlled manually and dyno operator and mapper assumed dyno fans would control temps so left fan off. Thankfully when the temps started to climb they switched the fan on! (I was on holiday at the time but ensured it was supervised by a good friend and Zed head :))