jaffa

nice, 5am set off for me then :) Mark, are you going on track?

Seals on my originals went about 5 years ago. Smoked occasionally on idle, was worst when coming to a stop at junctions/roundabouts, drove fine though :) Had a problem earlier in the year, but that was more than seals, turbo shaft broke, so oil in exhaust, lots of smoke and no boost!

looks like turbo oil seals to me

he's on holiday, as most jobs vary depending on what you want I'd give him a ring when he gets back for a price. Think he's back end of next week

Just to clairfy, the process of a proper rebuild is expensive, Jimmer rate's are actually very good!

did you get this sorted? I have a kit that's off the car at the moment, though was fitted without issue. Want me to measure the lines?

cool, just sent paypal for ticket :)

Mark, I'll have a ticket please :) also have your other pistons now, shall I post or bring with me to trax?

Most 3" downpipes foul the steering column for rhd cars

lol, I booked session E for advanced, don't think they let my sticker'd up car in the Novice session :)

will do, what session(s) have other people booked?

what time is the track session?

lol, decent tires please. A narrower, premium brand will be much better

I might come along, will confirm next week ;)

good work!

265-285 will be plenty, more important to buy a decent brand tire

I run 19x10.5 et35 on the rear with 305 tires, roll, pull and flare needed Fronts are 19x10.5 et25 with a 265, roll & pull needed on the standard arch, or fits under a 20mm wider front arch. I actually founf my rolled metal arches gave me more clearance ont he front than the wider fibreglass ones. Another point is that R888 tires are generally wider than ther brands as the sidewall is so stiff

depends what you call a 'bit' of arch work. They'll need more than a simple roll of the lip, so pulling will be needed, might need a flare on the rear but suspect if you stick to 265's it should be ok

what power do you have / want? 285 is about the max without arch work (but you need the right offset wheel) I run 305 R888's which seem a wide tire compared to other brands, a there's a lot of arch work involved combined with a right offset wheel. Those with wide arch can got up to around the 355 mark

still think it's a wiring issue or dodgy earth, have you tried swapping the sensors round to rule that out?

I would say look at the wiring for both sensors/gauges (not plumbing) an electric gauge tries to self zero, when ignition comes on, so if the switched power is wired incorrectly it's going to zero itself at the wrong place, and if that's then controlling your boost will cause problems.

90A for standard, you can get HO ones from 120 - 180+

it's slightly more powerful than mine. Works fine however, do';t expect multiple cranks out of it when you have problems. I found that it would struggle to start if left for more than 2 weeks, and if you have a drain somewhere then only a few days. Make sure you have a good alternator as well to make it charge well between starts, I've just ordered a High Output alternator to make up for the electric fan sapping so much current

I'd go with SZ, I doubt there's any company out there with more experience of working on the Z32. 2" deviation on one side of the test pipes only needs the angle to be slightly off at the downpipe side given the length.

take some pics and contact SZ, I'm sure they'll advise. I'll be surprised if there's an issue with the parts