jaffa

P S I generally use event tires, there prices usually beat the competition and they come round to your house/work to fit them

fair enough, most likely ok, but depends how close the old ones were to the arches! I remember doing the same several years ago, going from a 255 to 265 rear and the 265's rubbed :(

oops, should really check what I type first! anyway, do you the size of your alloys?

prices - use the usual websites fitment - sizes are not extreme, however fitment will depend on the wheel width and offset...

so the problems I've read are viscous fan running - normal high idle - not normal small pops/thudding on idle (result of the above) condensation - normal have you actually driven the car? If you have a genuine ECU problem it'd probably drive crap, but give it a go as it may show other problems which will make the diagnosis easier. PS finish removing the AIV and make sure you don't have any vaccum leaks

the ecu is essentially a bunch of tables, it looks up the amont of air being read by the MAF and supplies an amount of fuel. The stock ecu only holds these tables up to the equivilant of stock boost, ie 9psi (note it does not do this on pressure, that would be a MAP based system). An aftermarket ECU extends these table to have additional references for more air being fed through the MAF eg by upping the boost

good progress. I remember fitting my seats, what a PIA! PS you can remove the sensors that go out the floorpan under the seats, they are the cat overheat ones.

sorry, that's just wrong. Doesn't make a difference

cool, well hopefully you've got it sorted by then but if not I'm sure I could swing by

where about's are you mate? My mother lives in Carmarthen and I'll be back in Wales first weekend of Dec

what kind of dual intake? any pics? sounds like a mismatch between ecu and intake setup

the flasher unit is different to the rear tail light sensor Pretty sure things aren't going to work correctly without it!

No idea, mine went in the bin several years ago

I would say air in the system for sure, causing the soft brake pedal. Then if revs are dropping sounds like an air leak around the brake booster

good work, I like the crow bar in the first pic :)

front bumper is a stillen with the side lights not fitted and some universal splitters added on the sides

looks like a photoshop to me

Ps suck about ztech, but seems par for the course on their work

I'm selling a forged short block for good money too, picked it from the states for a bargain, not looking to make any cash on it

For those that don't know, I did snetterton time attack with a stock short block, giving it death, revving to 7600rpm, key is having a good map (base boost, 420rwhp) However, I'll also say, back in the day, when I had stock inj, it was leaning out at 1bar. It was at spool up it was struggling, not top end so doesn't surprise me if you have a good map it might be alright. This will be a case by case thing and will depend on how efficient the setup is. An efficient setup will flow more air at less psi, so please by careful everyone

warp doesn't fix itself so sounds like you had pad deposits on the disc

have you checked other things like tension rod bushes?

They are so not a track wheel! I think bob has Volk ce28 which are about as light as you can get

Still loads under the dash to come!

if it truely is running 17psi and you have stock injectors, I would get it sorted. Doing a track day like that will damage something which will be way way more expensive than the cost of the track day