jaffa

not for me, but very cool and would be great for a show car. PS I would minimise your websites next time :)

standard oil cooler setup? If so, and the readings are correct, the temp is probably a symptom of the high pressure. The standard cooler has a high pressure feed

I may come along, won't be able to confirm till much closer to the time though

lol

jap slapper was having a similar problem, not sure if he got his fixed or not

just looked at previous page and remembered I'd offered you the leak checker, sounds like you need it!

any boost leaks, with the stock boost actuators off and boost controller on zero you should still hit 7psi ...

might be worth trying a new set in there, when were they changed last?

sounds like a missfire

Nismo one opens too early, ok for a track car as it can start cooling earlier, but in the winter, the car won't get up to the right temperature

you'll probably need a few very hot cycles to get rid of all the residue from the last issue. Dont worry about it yet.

No mate, not for you :)

I think you're overcomplicating how the turbo changes the map. the Map will be based on the amount of air the engine consumes and the effiency of that engine The turbo helps drive the air, bigger the turbo, the more air, but usually accompanied by more lag. Though getting the right compressor/turbine ratios to suit the engine means that some work better than others

I use EventTires, they're mobile so will come to you :)

That's a big topic, have a look on the garret website, there's a few tutorials on how turbo's work and how to read the maps.

a quick google reveals - http://www.powerstation.org.uk/

you can run one as a dummy, however you then need to change your ecu so it doubles it up for you. Also you can get idle issues as the IACV only feeds from one side

not that straight forward, you'll need an AFC or SELIN to combine the signals from both

I'm going to guess it's rich somewhere, wait till you get your wideband connected then you can monitor it

Hi, I think you need to understand how a boost controller works, then the above will make sense :) Essentially, the controller, in your case the ECU, is wired into a solonoid which in turn is plumbed into the vacuum line going to the wastegates. The zero setting, means the solonoid is fully open, and your turbos wastegates open at their normal pressure, this is know as actuator / base boost. When you want to run more boost, you increase the duty cycle of the solonoid, which reduces the air going to the wastegate so it opens later. By opening later, the turbo builds more boost

quick thoughts from my side, you want VTC enabled at 0% because the map will interpolate tha values, so if load was 10%, it will be enabled. I would guess the boost is being managed by the Emerald just through the map switching rather that the separate boost control switch

I run 8's and they're perfectly fine potterting arond town too. Only time they meessed arond me is when I had too rich a tune so they fouled quite quickly, soon fixed that though. The Copper plug sounds interesting so I'll read up on that

no, if you switched to 2 MAFs and the Selin at the same time then 'add' is the correct setting. Best get your setup checked out by either John Dixon or Noz on here so they can check the chip out at the same time and make any teaks if needs be

how many MAF's do you have, and did you have split pipework before fitting the Selin. If you did, your chip is probably doubling the MAF voltage aready, and what you need to do is set the Selin to average between the two.

Hi Noz, If you're looking to build a team you can include me as I'll be going unless there's a clash with summer holiday (kids ehh!)