jaffa

think he meant being nosey rather than it was noisy! No problem helping you out, won't be long till she's back :)

O2 sensors will only cause problem on part load, should be fine at full throttle...

if the water pump is seized it would have over heated if you went more than a few miles

Dude - pay more attention :) Stock manual turbo's are 0.63 A/R already. They are bigger than auto tubs, hence Noel commenting on them Decent FMIC or SMIC with 2.5" pipes. I would say most FMIC on the market are rubbish and have the flow going the wrong way so be careful 2.5" exhaust minimum. 3" downpipes if you can afford, otherwise 2.5" again there More fuelling, 555 inj - stock fuel pump is fine you'll need to run more than 1bar to get over 400 Manifold is not 2.5", just get the MSP/AMS cast ones

Let me say this one more time don't bother with the Nismo stat, it won't help you

Yes I've run a Nismo stat, doesn't make any difference to the peak temp under load, but in the winter the coolant temp never went above 62! Do you have a slam panel to force air through the rad rather than letting it bleed over the top? I suspect the abflug nose panel is having the same effect? Is your base timing correct? this can also impact running temp? When you say heavily modded, can you elaborate and say which ecu/map you're using?

is the stat fitted correctly? don't bother with a nismo one, car never gets up to temp in the winter! find yourself a shroud, and maybe borrow someone else's viscous fan incase it's starting to fail

A bit on the high side, is your fan locking up correctly and still using the shroud? Keep it below 105, the real killer is the oil temp though so you should keep an eye on that too

Stock turbos with decent manifolds will out breath the injectors, Noel ramps up the fuel pressure on his car to compensate, but since you have the 555's then fit them so you have some fuelling to spare

I would suggest you fit the 555's ...

are the current ones failing?

What's your budget, and also future power goals. You could get something that can max out your current setup, or go bigger and unlock as you do other mods. Be wary of 'hybrid' turbo's as they often don't deliver any better, or are much laggier than needed for any performance improvement.

Hi Bob, can you confirm the tubs so I can update the dyno thread. Earlier in this thread you mention GTX 3071 but I thought they were 3076?

These were removed from the widearse, good for 600-700bhp. No smoke and no leaks, wheels spin freely with very little play - £500 Matching decat pipes also available, as seen here - £75

Thanks Bob! Fuel tank bulkhead finished! This arrived too, a lightweight Alternator mount DS pump mounted and some daylight pics of the FMIC with DS to check clearances

I use the hexagonal stuff, the formed plastic ones are good but not exactly cheap

looks good, get yourself an undertray fitted ;)

There are arguments for both, in gear acceleration will be quicker and more responsive, but you need to change gear more often, or keep the lower ratio and just ride the torque

You launch that often!

you mean Silverline ;)

£400 Pedals available at extra cost if you want to do a conversion

Excellent 60ft time, what tires are you using for that?

Hope you do Japshow today, sure it will surprise a lot of people. I make it 624ftlb and 738 hp, can you confirm these are hub figures and I'll update the dyno thread :)

Excellent :D

As Andrew says, you need to look at the backlash setup really. If you hve poly bushes you get a bit more noise, a bit more again going to solid bushes. I have solid subframe and diff bushes with a stock diff and it's not as loud as yours as a comparison. Choices are live with it or get the diff out and setup again