SMW1

Although I don't own the car and haven't done for some time now. I'm very happy you're getting her back to how she should be. I look forward to seeing the pics video :).

Ah you need to apply some red instant gasket to the bottom of both ends of the balance bar.

They don't actually send any reading until the car is warmed up. If they are still giving this reading once warm, you need new ones. They should fluctuate on acceleration once warm.

Yes. Any kink in the pipe enough to stop the flow of fluid could stop it working completely.

Was it ok before engine removal? If so surely it's gotta be something simple. Does conzult show any errors?

I gotta say, those wheels are very nice, But really like them in black rather than Silver.

Maybe he forgot to put oil back in it after he finished rebuilding :)

Comments added within the quote beow in Italics

Do you have a UK model or 3 point rear seat belts?. If not you'll need these. There's some on e-bay at the moment fairly cheap.

Also check the fluid, you may have an air lock.

Not sure what's happening here. The power is coming straight form the battery witha massive gold plated fuse in the engine bay. You also have seperate fuses for the cap and AMP on the left size of the boot. So it should not effect anythingin the rear. The only piece of ise that is not standalone is the head unit. I can only imagine that the blue cable (i.e. the cable that sends the signal to the amp and back to the stereo is shorting out somewhere). Also check the earthing strap on the amp. This should earth out to the boot area to the side of the fibre glass housing.

When it cold can you rev above 3000 rpm? if not then it's going to be MAF related. I doubt it's PTU as you have a series II.

Ohio is famous for it's steaks right ?

Pay her now and if you would have saved, spend the money on a nice present for her mum. If you loose money steal a bottle of beer when you get there.

No Euro tunnel for you then :)

Not this one then :)

It was custom, but went mouldy while the car was sitting for 2.5 years. I tried to clean it up but mould and grey leather didn;t blend too well so I put the standard one back on :(.

You don't like your big shiny one then :)

Is this an original strosek?

I would suggest Nismo 555's, 704's or Boarder 850's with fuel rail.

Just put another RPS max in and turn the boost down to 12 psi :) Sorry I shouldn't joke. I feel for you mate, you're not really getting what you paid for here.

Oil & Water pumps ? File out excess flash welding in water channels (block) & Replace block plugs ? AIV removal ?

I would have to agree. it's a stock car with a nice interior. Not worth £12k IMHO.

Check your gear shift bushes while you are there, you may need new ones (test by wobbling the gear stick whilst in gear it should not move much from left to right, if it moves then you may want to replace, if it feels like it's in nuteral, you're well past your sell by date :) ). Makes a massive difference to the way gear changes feel.

As already mentioned. First thing to check is the fuel pump. Do you have vaccum in your tank?. Open the filler cap and listen. If you have vaccum then it's likely your pump is working, but you should hear this as soon as you turn on the igntion. Check for pressure in the fuel lines after the fuel filter. Once you have established the pump is ok, next check the cas to make sure it clicks as you crank the engine. If you get to this stage and all is well you need to make sure your cylinders are getting fuel.