SMW1

5 bar !!!!!. Fooking hell mate. You're gonna make more boost leaks than you started with. I would say 2 bar pressure is more than enough to find any. Not sure what pipes you need but I have a bunch of Blue silicone on ebay at the moment, excess form the engine dressup.

Are you guys not reading the post. He's not interested in doing the seats. Only the panels. I personally think that the sofa leather would be a good idea. You should have loads of leather there more than you would get on a hide. Better value for money especially if you are only doing the less hard wering areas.

Totally agree. I wasthnking more of not taking care of it rather than driving it like you stole it (someone's quote there but can't remember who's).

Managed to get them off e-bay for £21 :). there is also a set of rear UK quarter panels up for grabs for £15 so I'm waiting to see if we can get these as well. Saves cutting and drilling the Jap panels. Thanks for the offers though guys.

That steering well really complements the interior :)

If it's only when you turn right and not left. I would suggest that something is kinking the pipe work when you apply steering in that direction. You may need to get the front on ramps again and from a straight wheel position get someone to apply right lock while you check under for any friction or trapped pipework.

Sounds like an earthing issue. The amountof electrical issues you have had already I'm going to assume you now own a multimeter :) If this is the case. Check the earth resistance from the amp itself to make sure you have a good earth. If this is ok, check the resistance between the earth wires on the speakers. i.e. earth terminal on the speaker and then earth terminal on the amp for that speaker. Also check to make sure that the live and earth wires and not too close together when joining the amp. If they look close put some insulation tape around them and see if that reduces the boom when you power up.

Prettymuch what I said then :) Unplug the fuse. Check the standard components than no longer function. Check the aftermarket components that no longer function. Chase back the power wire to all the aftermarket components and disconnect. Test fuse again with just standard components.

It just a shame the previous owner to you abused it :cry:

Ooops a link would help

You just need this little trick :). Check towards the end of the vid.

How much do they go for these days?. i.e. the 3 point ones to replace the lap belts. I'm trying to pick some up for a mate but seen some on ebay with a big difference in price.

I'll have her back ! :winkiss:

Good to hear Dave. You're getting there.

How many wires do you have on the guage? 2 or 3? 2 wires 1 earth 1 live 3 wires 1 earth 1 live 1 dimmer Earth goes to earth Live goes to any 12V ignition live Dimmer goes to side lights Use a multimeter to test which wires you need to connect up to.

No that's not how I wired them up. In that case they are either shorting or they have been changed. I didn't want them on when the boot lid was closed because driving at night would be a pain in the butt with a blue light constantly in your rear view. Would make me paranoid and stick to the speed limit lol. I think we found the problem. If the lights are on all the time then they have a constant earth. Check the wires related to these and I think you may have solved the mystery. They will run to where the standard boot light used to be.

Just remembered... The whole rear of the car is dynomatted. Is this stuff conductive ?. I think it may be, so any exposed wires / connector are going to have an easy job finding earth.

AH that may be a clue there. If the light is on constantly but dim, it's managing to earth itself a little make the circuit complete. It's jogged my memory also. The rear neons are wired into what used to be the boot light. i.e. when you open the boot the neons will come on, when you close it they should go off. This gets us back to the speaker you removed with the box. Check / disconnect the wires to the neons where they join the boot light wires. you may have a plastic sleve that has come off the bullet connector and earthing itself out. Then if you push a fuse in while the boot is open "BANG". Disconnect the neons, trace the wire back and insulate the connections, then try the fuse again (with boot lid shut).

That's because only 5% of people actually put in a claim due to all the stuff you need. i.e. witness, picture or hole, size of whole and dimensions etc. If at least 50% of people claimed then it would cost less to fix the roads.

So everything non standard still worked when you removed the fuse? And that's the only fuse gone (checked with multi meter on resistance?)

Glad it's sorted, Serbia has nice motor between Belgrade and Nis but most of other roads are worth than ours. So he would have been in real trouble. And you don't see many 300zx's out there either let alone replacement wheels.

Just for reference. I have been helping a mate with his Celica electronics recently. He has so much aftermarket stuff we needed to get an additional fuse box and wire everything through that. i.e. take a feed from the battery get power to the box and earth it out. Then connect up each individual item to a loom and plug. You're not in this situation as you probably have about 20% of what he has in terms of non standard electronics. Either way Electronis can be a bitch but it is relatively simple whan you take a step back and think about it.

Are you sure it's related to the ICE system? It could have just been a coinsidence. You need to see what's going through that fuse first to find the issue. Take that fuse out and turn the ignition on. Try all the electrical component and make a list of what's not working. If I remember correctly the cigarette lighter, interior lamp and folding mirros are on the same fuse. Check the standard items on the car first. Rear wiper, rear squirter (or whatever it's called), folding mirrors, electric mirrors etc.. Next check the additional compnents. i.e. stereo, boost controller, guages, fog light etc. My guess is that an additional power source has been wired into the fuse and the amp now exceeds what the fuse can take. However saying this you don;t want to just put a bigger fuse in as this will cause issues. You need to find the cause by finding what doesn't work and then disconnect the additional (i.e. aftermarket) electrics. The problem you may have is that something requiring 25amp has been wired into a 10amp fuse slot. This is an issue beause it means it needs a 25amp fuse but then the existing power that was rated at 10amp are left in a situation where if they have an issue they could cause a fire due to the safty line (i.e. fuse) no blowing when it should. In Summary. Unplug the fuse. Check the standard components than no longer function. Check the aftermarket components that no longer function. Chase back the power wire to all the aftermarket components and disconnect. Test fuse again with just standard components. If all is ok you need to assess what after market components you have and think about either putting an inline fuse in between it and the fusebox (must be smaller than the fuse in the box) and maybe also consider splitting them off into different power sources if you have more than one aftermarket component that isn't working. Give me a call if you like it's probably easier to have this in writing but then hear it in person to avoid confusion.

Yup gonna be a boost leak unless you've been playing around with the Idle control Valve. Your ECU is in lerning mode so it will be a little lumpy to start with, but shouldn't be hunting too much.

Once you've sorted the majority of boost leaks I would personally reset your ECU to get it learn the seetings again. If the boost leaks have been there for a while the ecu wouldhave adjusted other settings to accomodate. Disconnect the battery then pump the clutch and brake pedals a few times each to get the excedd power out of the system. Then reconnect back up after an hour. the car will run a bit poor for 30 - 40 miles but then you should notice a nice increase in performance unless of course you still have other issues. Or you could wait for the consult software and reset it manuall using a laptop.