SMW1

Yes the series two PTU is a straight swap for the series 1. All connectors come with it. http://www.courtesyparts.com/22020-power-transistor-unit-ptu-harness-1989-1999-300zx-z32-p-182593.html It's a nissan place in the states. Or if you are feeling lucky. http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=300zx+ptu&_sacat=See-All-Categories But as I mentioned it's probably best to borrow a known working one first to make sure it's this problem.

Shrek, just a quick pointer. When you take the balance bar off to remove the rear plugs. Remove the o rings that sit between the balance bar and the plenum on both sides. These are easily missing and then fall out when replacing causing boost leaks that are hard to locate. A little semi red on both sides of the o ring when refitting will save you a lot of hassle ;)

Definately not stretch bolts. Although when I had sticking valves in the first year of ownership. The biggest 300zx garage (at the time) decided to use stretch bolts on my head. Fine for a bit until warm and then I pretty much lost the whole tank of water in about 35 seconds. So happy to confirm from experience they are not stretch bolts :)

It is starting to sound PTU related if it's dropping a cylinder when warm. The series 1 PTU (one on the left) has an issue with the solder joints inside. The PTU controlls the signals to all 6 coil packs. When the PTU gets warm a solder joint lifts up inside the unit and breaks connection to a coil pack causing it to misfire. When the car cools down the solder drops back in place and reshablishes the connection to that coil pack. If you can borrow a PTU from someone you will establish if this is the issue. No point in buying loads of stuff and wasting money until you find the problem. Get chummy with someone who lives near you and help each other out. You'll soon be up and running again and this time go the distance.

PCV valves maybe on their way out. If not then something else is weeping oil into your system. Other possible cause is turbo seals

If you want to use a different MAF, other than Nissans Z32 Original. You're looking at an expensive remap and a rolling road session. This will cost a lot more than a 2nd hand MAF. As others have said stick to the original and you can't go wrong.

I have to ask... you say you had a major service and then it went to the mechanics and had timing belt, water pump etc. Pretty much all of this should have been included in the major service. If not, they have charged you for a major service and just changed the oil, plugs, air filter and fuel pump. Anyway back to your issue. A few questions about the senario. Was it wet outside when the problem occurred ? Any other symptoms when the problem occurred i.e. smoke from the back, unusual noise, wheels locking up etc? A boost leak wouldn't usually cause the engine not to start are there's hardly any pressure on the system. It would cause lumpy idle (hunting) and poor performance but you should be able to get it started. Unless one of your main T/B hoses has come off. First of all. Check the 4 main hoses and clamp are in place. Check the connectors are securly connected on the following: MAF CAS PTU TPS Once you've checked then post back and we'll give you some more to check.

As you have already checked the fuel supply a few other things to try: Remove the fuel pump relay. Check for injector clicks (screw driver to the injector and handle to the ear). Next check the plugs are firing (Remove a coil pack and the plug and earth it out on the plenum, crank the engine to see if it sparks)

Doh !!!. That should have been help topless decide....

Xbox 360 or PS3 ? Pro's and con's

Why is it that everyone selling a slightly modified Z on Ebay or pistonheads also addes this line "It is probably one of the quickest and best handling Zs in the Country" It's fooking not. Do some research and stop assuming that because you spent more than a grand doing it up it's the fastest there is. Does my noddle in.

Everyone has thier own opinion on BOVS. Some people like them, some people don't. Lets just get a few things out in the open. 1) BOVS do not increase your BHP. 2) BOVS vent the excess air rather than pushing it back into your system. 3) There is a theory that BOVS realease excess back pressure on the turbo's thus causing them to wear at an increased rate. 4) BOVS make a loud noise as they release the air. 5) If not set up correctly or pressure springs on BOVS are worns, this could create turbo chatter (aka turbine stall). Now, some people love this noise, but this is VERY BAD for your turbo's. If it's just the noise you want and they are set up correctly then go for it, it's not going to hinder or improve the cars performance but if that's what you want don't let anyone stop you. Just make sure they are set up correctly to avoid problems. I personally had them on my car as I started getting goose honk from the recircs. I believe that the standard recircs have a limit on how much pressure they can hold before they start to wear, therefore people running much higher boost will usually find themselves changing them for after market recircs or bovs.

Do you have a picture of your car?. It may be know on here and if it has a JD chip it's quite likely it belonged to a previous member of the forum.

Two ways to fit. Replace the recirt valves with BOVS or get bovs tapered into the hard pipes. People only usually fit bovs when thier recirt valves start goose honking. So it you are fitting them for fun, make sure you save your recirt valves if there is nothing wrong with them as they will sell nicely on here to people who don't want BOVS. Have a look at HKS SQL's they are very nice sounding and easy to install.

Welcome back.

Only on gay spaceships.

Recorded it :). Will watch it with the wife tomorrow night.

If that's the same dyno, I think the dyno is only good for 530. We flat lined it on our 14psi inital power run and was told that we couldn't do any more power runs in fear of breaking it :D.

Petrol ? :)

In all honesty mate, I really would like to come down and help out and if it wasn't for my two year old I would come over this weekend, saying that... if it wasn't for my daughter I probably would have never sold silver streak in the first place lol. Internet / phone line support is the best I've got at the moment. :(

All the injector and coil pack connect plugs are only a couple of years old and were wired into the existing harness. The PTU & CAS connections are pushed in correctly right?. It's worth checking for the injector clicks first. Then I would personally then disconnect a coil pack one at a time and see if the engine tone changes. If it doesn't then take the coil pack and plug out disconnect the fuel pump relay and put the plug in the coil pack, connect it up and earth it on the plenum while someone cranks the engine. Check for a spark. No spark, then you need to test the wiring to make sure that it is getting a signal from the PTU. If I remember righty the injectors have a constant live with an earth pulse to fire them. I'm not 100% sure if this is the same way that the spark plugs are fired. Either way I'm sure you just have an electrical issue with the hunting. I can't see it being a compression issue or a faulty plug / injector / ptu.

I so want to take some time out and just get myself over to yours to sort these issues out for you. It's starting to sound like a misfire now. Especially if when you do a conzult cylinder test it fails. I'm scratching my head on this one.

Just a quick question. With the engine running, but with the car at a standstill, do you still get the problem turning left and right (in nuteral with handbrake on)? If so, then it's more than likely the pump than the rack. you did connect the belt back up correctly right?

Not sure what the cardboard is there for???. That's just goingto get wet and go soggy. There is a resistance setting on the multi meter. You can turn the setting to that and then you can put one end of the connector on the earth terminal (with the earth still attached) and another on an earthing point on the car. It should read 0 if it reads anything different thenthe amp is not earthed out correctly.

The protection around the twin pops. Unless additional protection was implemented after me, I only know about the splash panels under the engine (which I think may have been removed by the next owner to me) and the perspecx plate under the headlight panel. The problem with the Doolz is that it's big and sticks out. You need to protect it from moisture. Because if it gets a little bit of moisture in it you will find it hard to start after a rainy day and also you'll be in the situation where it doesn't idle and won;t rev above 3krpm. This is due to the maf sensing water in the air and getting confused. Now was it PSI or BAR. 1 Bar = 14.5 psi