SMW1

If it does come to setting it up again. How far away from Romford are you ;). Not sure if you know but the HKS actuators you have on those JWT530bb's are set for 13psi. You may need this information for who ever is setting it up.

On dyno to use ? or what to run on the dyno? Dyno to use, shouldn't matter they should all give roughtly the same readings unless they have been tampered with. Would be good to do a Surrey Rolling road meet, that was good fun. not sue if Jimmer has been banned yet for re painting the car park :) I would personally see if you can get a couple of runs in with a cool off period between them. Start with about 17 psi and raise 2 psi after each run checking fuel levels and listening for any signs of stress. Your car should be good for up to about 24PSI on Optimax. But obviously this has never been tested so I would take it easy to start with. At the end of the day the dyno is just a number. The fact that each of us enjoys improving our cars and adding the personal touches to make them our own is what counts.

Which unfortunately means that it doesn't currectly qualify up there with the big guns (They are the rules, I know because I made them lol (shot myself in the foot with that one:gun_bandana:). I really hope that Yewcheck gets it on the dyno when he's sorted the oil leak. I've never seen the extent of what it's capable of but I've always wanted for one of the new owners to get it on the dyno and take it all the way. Unfortunatley the day I got it mapped was also the last day of my ownership so I never got to put it on a dyno that could handle the power.

Light - Check the handbrake cable is not pulling at the Cat sensor. Radio - Code should be written on the paperwork. I've no clue what the code it :( Electronics - The boost controller will probably need to be set up again. I would take a note of the settings etc, before you pull the plug. Alarm - not an issue if you have saved the setting on the laptop, you can just plug this in and upload the settings when you are back on line (same with the traction control).

Lift it mate, otherwise you will have to remove subframe, engine mounts etc.

Don't forget to remove the belt as well. You won't be needing that any more if the AC is coming out.

Lol Dave, you think there are lots of wires and connectors!!!. You are already missing a fair few. You do not have AIV or PRVR. The EGR has been blanked off and removed. You also have an under plenum bypass. So that's a fair few of the main ones you don't need to worry about. There's not much else that you can remove unless you want to disable the HICAS and remove the A/C.

Very interested mate. Always good to see the cars your've previously owned and how they have changed / are changing.

Nah they are standard gaskets mate

I actually bought three point rear seat belts and the rear quarter pannels from a UK model at the same time. Saves the customising of your existing pannels. I think I still have them in the shed as I know I never fitted them.

Everyone has thier own method, but as mentioned lifting a little bought it inline and relieved the pressure. Since Yewcheck is doing the same thing on the very same car, there's a good chance that the same tactic will ease the removal.

You can do it with the engine in, but as mentioned above to get it done right and reduce risk of it happening again then it's an engine out jobby. Saying this you have GD manifolds on that which stick out a bit more than standards so theres even less room. I don't believe you'd be able to ge the manifolds off fully without the engine out. Also make sure the blts are kept in the correct order as one of them has beeen modified to fit with the GD downpipes.

Any other Issues mate, don't be afraid to call. I know when you are trying to get things sorted and get stuck it's fustrating to have to wait for a couple of hours to find the answer. If you ever get in this position give me a call and we should have you sorted in a couple of minutes.

Dave, As you probably discovered by now, you don't have Cats on Silver Streak. You do still however have the CAT sensor probes in place which are wired up next to the where the cats should be (the flexi pipes are around that sort of area now). What you are seeing is the cat sensor occasionally touching the body work or exhaust and therefore earthing itself out. This will make the cat warning light come on as it connects with Earth. Very easy fix, you just need to get under there and locate the sensors and insulate them and tie them up a little better, I have these all nice and tidy but believe the the owner after me had the Diff replaced or repaired, so it's very likely they have been messed with and have started to work themselves loose. In Summary, it's not a problem, just a pain when lights come on and off for no apparent reason.

Leave the plenum on mate, it's easier to use that to tie the lift ropes round. Otherwise you need to chain up round the sump. Just disconnect the Matrix pipes along with PAS, AC and all wireing harness (i.e. sensors, plugs etc). Little tip for the Gearbox. Lift the engine about an inch to relieve pressure on the gearbox bolts. Then dropp it a few inches to access the hard to get to bolts.

Thought I'd post them here. A few Ideas I was playing with when I had the car. Rear spoiler removed. Front headlight panel standard

Unbolt one side of the rear bar then swing it up to allow you to remove the false floor with perspex in it.

Dave, You'll need to change your sig now :) "IF ITS YELLA ITS FASTA , BUT NOT AS FAST AS THE SILVER ONE"

This model never had cruise control fitted as standard, so no it doesn't have it. The red switch was wired up. I think that Leigh took it to the garage to get all the wiring checked when he had an issue with the alarm so the garage may have removed it. If you have a multimeter you should be able to locate the live wire that was connected to it. If I remember correctly the switch is not earthed itself. it's earthed off the rear lights therefore you'll have an ignition live in and an ignition live out. It may be a good time to get a blanking plate for the left hub where the switch was and wire it to one of the other switches in the center console. One thing to make sure of is that you put an inline fuse in both sides of the switch. The reason for this is that the rear lights work off a black box (located in the boot on the drivers side behind the panels), if you manage to wire it up incorrectly you are more than likely to blow the relay in the box. The box is sealed so you will need to obtain a new one. Usually around £10 from a 300zx breakers. Problem is that the relay also controls the rest of the lights in the rear cluster, so you will need to either inline fuse it or bypass it completely. When was the last MOT, I'm sure it's had one since I had it done last. Or is it due now?, I can't remeber how long it's been since I sold it. It seems as though Silver streak has either been abused or uncared for since I sold her. I'm glad that you own her now as I know you like to take care of your cars. In terms of what the car would look like with a standard nose panel. Persoanlly I think it looks better than the stillen 4 slot that on there at the moment. I have a picture on photo bucket that I can dig out and load up. I'll have a look around to see if I can find it.

You're breaking my heart !!!! Good call that man.

~Red switch in the top panel of the light module. Unless someone has moved it. The bulbs were wired with double element bulbs so that the rear lights are double up as fog lights when the switch is activated. If you haven't got the switch there anymore. i.e. someone after me removed it, then yes, no more mot's for you until you sort it.

You may want to remove them from the car if you are going to attempt this method :D

Good to speak to you last night Dave. Hope you get the little things sorted without too much hassle. If you need some phone line support again, feel free to give me a call. Most of all congratulations and enjoy "silver Streak", I know from your previous cars you'll give her the attention she deserves.

If you read further it mentions that the factory starts the milage at 999990 or something similar. The miles are then put on at the factory, the trip counter was supposed to be reset at the dealership but was obviously missing in this case.