SMW1

Happy birthday Jay. RIP

Checking my bank balance :x

Doh, can't edit as a registered user. Z32 Coil packs are unique and although they look the same as Pulsar and GTS ones, they will not work on your Z32. The stem lenghts are different and I believe the inner coil dimensions are different too. If you can't get hold (borrow) of a set of know working coilpacks. Try and get at least one and swap it out with the 1st cylinder coil pack. Drive until it judders again, then swap that with coil pack 2 putting the original coil pack one back. Rinse and repeat for all 6 until you find the faulty coil pack. If it still does it after swapping out all 6, then you've proved that it's not a coil pack problem. It's a lenghty process but eventually you will find the fault.

Unplug the connector on top of the coil packs. Undo the bolt either side (2 in total). Pull the coil pack up (may be a bit stiff). You may as well remove the plugs and have a look at them to see if they look ok. They should be fine as they are the platinum ones and have a only been changed April last year (60,000 miles lifetime average).

If you have wet MAF, then it would run lumpy from the start and won't run much over 3500rpm. If it's coil packs then it could cause lumpy idle. You have bran new coil pack connectors and a series 2 PTU on there. Coil pack problems would show up on the conzult. Plug the conzult in and take it for a spin and see if you can replicate the problem. Then see what conzult says.

Plug the laptop in mate and see what the alarm thinks it's doing.

Your fan is wired up to an ignition live. You need to get this changed so that it is on a thermostat. The way your clifford alarm is set up feeds an ignition live to certain areas like the fuel pump in preperation for remote starts (inteli start) it may also be activating the fan. Once you switch the fan to a thermostat controlled rather than ignition controlled it will not only solve your disarming problem, but it will also be set up correctly.

The other option you have is to bypass the MAF. £200 for the parts and a good few hours labour. I know one or two have done that here and quite a few in the states and AUS. The power silverstreak is putting out is pretty close if not over the limit for a single maf. The doolz was purchased not just because it looks nice and is shiny. It was put on there purely for performance ;)

You have three connections form your laptop to your car. Conzult (plugged under bonnet release handle) Traction Control (Accessed via the glove box wire loom) Clifford (again accessed via the glove box wire loom) The wires for the traction control should all be in place at the ECU side. The LEd should come on unless you have a break in the led wiring. I believe one of the wires to the back of the LED may have come off. Pull off the pannel and check that the wires to the dial and the led are connected ok.

Your ECU is socketed, but the map you have is set up for doolz twin pop. If you want to convert back to a single intke then you will need a remap as at present it's reading from your passenger side maf and duplicating the values. Your drivers side maf is an actual maf but acting as a dummy. I'm not sure if it is a working maf though. So your best bet is to borrow a working maf from someone and swap it out with your passenger maf. If it fixes the problem then you need to replace your current maf as it appears to have developed a fault. (plug the conzult in next time it starts to do this and see if you get an error from it). If it still does it with the borrowed maf then you will need to get yourself splashguarded up as previously mentioned. Maf + any kind of Moisture = bad running.

If that's the case and this is what you have. There's no way you will be able to fit that with your Doolz set up.

I'm sure I had one fitted to it before the engine build. At which stage I had the stillen front end. So all the bolt holes should already be there. You may just need to pick up some of the screw fixers (i.e. sqaure clips that fit over the holes in the bumper.

Moisture in the MAF. Sorry for late reply.

Nice on. I was paying £825 with Sky. I'm 35 with full no claims bonus. That's with all mods declared, an agreed value of £15k and a like for like replacement.

In that case you can use the existing wiring loom and just replace the sender and gauge. At the gauge end inside the car the connections are all done using red bullet connectors so you can just unplug the existing gauge while leaving the loom in place. You will then just need to fit a few more female bullets to the new wire loom and plug them in. (remember what colour went to what wire :) )

Leigh, if the reason you are swapping it out is because the gauge is not reading correctly or fluctuating when warm, I would recommend that you also swap the sender unit that you should get with the new gauge. Most of the guages will have the same wiring format and consist of 3 or 4 wires as follows: Ignition Live Earth Sender unit Dimmer (i.e. dims the backing light of the gauge when you turn your side lights on). The dimmer wire is the optional wire that not all gauges will have. The existing wire from live and earth can be used and the sender wire can be kept in place and just reconnected at both ends to the new guage and the new sender unit. You will usualy find that if there is a fault with the gauge but the needle still moved then it's the sender unit that is at fault. Possible causes for fault or incorrect reading relating to the sender could be. Air lock in the water system preventing contact between sensor and water. If the gauge comes to life when the car hits a bump or going up or down a steep hill, then this is most likely the case. Incorrect earth connection on the housing of the sendor unit. This will make the sensor flick betweeen the actual reading and a much higher incorrect reading. Wire fault from sender to Gauge. A kink in the wire or exposure to the core of the wire causing it to earth out on in the engine bay or the firewall will cause fluctuation of the reading. Another fault could be that if it is running alongside a strong power current, this would also cause a flucuation of the sensor. Sensor failure, this will usually give you no reading at all.

Yeah, Stuart Waterman (profile pic is myself, wife and daughter). I don't log on much but will make an exception.

No pics yet :)

I'll PM you my number. If you have any issues or need any help, I'll do my best to assist.

The bubble switch broke, so I was unable to turn blackjack off via the keypad. It was replaced shortly after. Hopefully Gubby has passed on the laptop I gave him. If so it has all the software on there, i.e. clifford software, conzult and racelogic TC. So you should be able to have a play and turn on what you want. i.e. remote start, blackjack, autoarm, battery level check start etc etc.

Please remove me from the list as I gave the conzult and laptop away with the car when I sold it.

Anyone on here do power kiting, Kite surfing or kite boarding ? Just started getting into it and looking to get myself a couple of 2nd hand kites. I've had a couple of hours on someone elses Flexifoil bullet 3.5m quad line with handles, really enjoyed it. Managed to get a few seconds of air time as well. Looking now to buy myself a bullet 2.5m and a blade 4.9m

In regards to after effects, I'm having a little sinus trouble at the moment but I think that's because I'm still trying to get rid of all this shit that's clogged up behind me nose and under my eyes. I've only just got my hearing back to normal after having the "water in ear" symdrome for the last 5 days. So it's sarting to clear but still a pain in the butt.

Or think they have had it but not been confirmed ? Myself, wife and daughter have all had our arse kicked by flu a week ago. Headaches, aching body, stomache cramps, runny nose, cough, sore throat, sneezing and server tiredness. We didn't go to the doctors but were ill for a good 3-4 days and spent at least one of those days bed bound. Anyone else ?

You have a very similar set up to what I had on mine. First check to see what wastegates you have and what they are set to. The default for the hks ones (JWT530bb's) is 13psi. We couldn;t get mine past 13psi to start with but it's all about adjusting the gain. Once you start increasing boost by adjusting the gain, keep going and eventually you will get there.