Alexporsche

I'd pick up a secondhand sump fit that!

Plymouth!!! I used to live and go to school there St Boniface college up at Crownhill also used to have a flat on Mutley Plain and work in a restaurant called Sardis just behind Derry's Cross...

You came all the way from Canvey Island he must be good!!!

Hope you don't mind Ryan?????? Anyone used Baggins at Z-Tech for any work? I'm having a new det sensor and chip upgrade Saturday so want to be sure it's done well.

As the idling has been very slightly up and down and i'm a little more than fussy when it comes to having a car that runs perfectlyin the last few weeks i've done: PCV valves New plugs AAC and the two other valves Throttle bodies Clean out idle screw New temp sensor TPS on it's way will fit this weekend. Checked the resistance between the connector and the ECU from the Det Sensor and it's fine.....checked the resistance between the connector and the Det Sensor and it's ***ked. Baggins is fitting a new one and a chip Saturday.....

Is it ever worth re-locating the det sensor or should it be replaced in exactly the same place where Nissan intended?

I've got it down to £590 F/C 5000 per year parked on a drive... Insurance is completly unfair can we not have some sort of club insurance sorted out very very cheap!!!! I had a Porsche 928 4.7 litre car and it was only £220 a year a huge very fast automatic yet so much cheaper. We need real classic insurance at real classic insurance prices.....

Vijay i phoned them and they will insure me but for £600 a year!!!!! Last year it was only £300 as i had a rusty old classic car sitting in a lock up in Ealing which i hadn't started for 4 years but as i decided to sell it hardly anyone will insure me because of the "2nd" car nonsense. If i had a rusty 2nd car sitting outside doing nothing it would be £300 again!!!!!

Anyone seen these on ebay.com Seem like a complete bargain @ $39.00 + $13.00 shipping!!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7929309043&category=33736

And all is quiet........ If i bought anything from a shop new or second hand and it didn't perform it's function as stated on the box or in an advert i would politely ask for a refun......... In law it has to do "what is says on the tin" if it doesn't the law is broken! Why don't we have a poll first should you say who it is/isn't??????? Look at the result and decide by the majority? We are a forum after all......

I need to check the wires between the ECU and the connector a slim hope that this is the problem and throwing the code 34......also i don't want to blow up my ECU therefore i want to double check how to check the resistance. From the female plug (one with temporary resistor) Connect one side to a good earth,the other side to the ohmmeter (red) and the other sidee of the ohmmtere (black) again to a good earth????? It should throw up a resistance of 500k ohm with the engine running.... Is this correct???

nice one Vijay will check the wires tonight fingers crossed it's that then finally get a boost controller+ecu upgrade!!!!

Is there anyway of checking the resistance? Do i check the female or male side of the wire......or both for that matter? Is the profec easy to fit???

Ok if i did decide to fix this first how much is a det sensor and how much to fit a new one?????

So therefore it will still retard the timing if det occurs but only up to 3500 revs? Is there a chance the det sensor is ok and it's just my wiring between the ECU and the det sensor that's faulty? So you would reccomend fixing the det sensor before fitting a boost controller???

Anyone else run a Greddy Profec II boost controller? What do you think of them? I know it only has two settings but is a variable boost really important as i know i'll only want two settings...off or full!!!! Also even though i have code 34 like most does this matter when fitting a new chip and boost controller? Will it by-pass the det sensor when fitted? Does the boost controller make a huge difference to performance? Cheers

Thinking finally of boosting............. ECU upgrade first followed by boost controller. All works fine apart from code 34...... if i just use a resistor instead of pulling the whole engine out and fixing, can i use the boost controller???? Also if the resistor blew would this make any difference? Finally how much should i pay for ECU upgrade and boost controller and which boost controller should i use....is the Greddy Profec II recommended. I want a small and compact controller.......

That's exactly what i thought in fact you'd hardly notice it looking at the tyres but because the tracking was out the tyres were worn badly therefore pull to the left. I also had some annoying vibration which also disspeared after new tyres. Just use the spare and try it on both fronts just to be sure put it on and drive down a straight road see if there's any difference....

Yep pretty sure it does i'll double check later though. Could the TPS cause the idle to drop or just to rise?

No dump valves and the yellow connector is fine? I tested the resistance for all the valves out of the car,should they have a current applied while i test them?

Hope Andy can answer this one. I've taken out and cleaned the AAC, IAC air regulator,checked resistance and all is as it should be. I've also checked both plugs on the TPS and they are not corroded or dusty at all. The base idle is just under 900 which seems fine but sometimes it drops to around 700 which feels too low and it still rises to 1200 for no reason???? Could this still be the TPS?????? Is it worth replacing?

Mine had the same when i bought it i think these cars are very sensitive to worn tyres..i replaced mine and the problem dissapeared completly. If they are worn slightly unevenly it may cause this.....how old are they?

Which means if it's not plugged in ok the revs will rise for some unknown reason???

What does it do?

Little black rectangular box,if i was looking at the engine it sits to the left of the left TB????? Cheers Andy