Alexporsche

Don't worry Andy not going to tit around with the idle screw now i've got the idle running perfect i just need to sort out why for some reason it just decides to climb to 1300???? What is the TPS and where do i find it????

Ok i've cleaned everything the AAC valve and the other two,put in new plugs. Cleaned out all the throttle bodies (again) and all seems to be running smooth exept sometimes sitting in traffic the revs climb to aroun 1300??? Oh yes and i've also changed the temp sensor..... What else could case the revs to just rise like that? Should i clean out the air filter? It's a single Apexi....... Anything else?

No mate not that bit just behind,spoke to Jeff and he's sending over 3 spare ones think they are actually solenoids........working off the exhaust gases......

Actually i'm thinking it's one of the exhaust gas sensors but i could be wrong...could this effect the idling if it's too low then try to pick it up?????

Hey Vijay new turbo's on their way yet???? The two parts sit just behind the set of about 7 relays in one box. They both have about three tubes going into them and look like two little metal cylinders. They both look identical apart from one has a white electrical connector and one is black.

Nope still no good think i need a good picture of the engine bay so i can highlight what i actually need.

Does anyone know where i can find an on-line parts guide. Need to phone the oiks at my local Nissan garage to order a part. Unless you have the actual part no. they haven't a ****ing clue! The two part numbers i'm after are the two relays that work off the emission,when the idling falls too low they pick it up but mine are shagged and just keep buzzing throwing the idling up and down....before you ask i've dismantled the AAC and checked and tested all the solenoids which are ok and cleaned all the valves.... Anyone?

Has anyone ever successfully cleaned out all parts of the AAC valve only i need to check it this weekend and want to see how difficult is to get off.It looks like a nightmare! Any tips?????????? Also is it worth cleaning out the air filter as i haven't touched it for a year or so?

Just in case anyone's interested the buzzing from somewhere near the footwell turned out to be two emission relays which try to bring up the revs if they are two low apparently the later 300's have done away with these but the way round it is first to bring up the base idle which would be running too low in my case...... The relays sit just to the right of the fluid reservoir for the brakes. If anyone else has the same problem.

Definately not a vibrator as i've a huge ***k she doesn't need one plus mine has 5 attachable heads.... So apart from that or a wasp caught somewhere tricky any other bright ideas????

I can hear a buzzing sound from near the footwell somewhere,it is intermittant but when it does the idling shifts from 750 then shoots up to 1200 then down to 600......is there an idling relay that could be loose or have a bad connection somwhere down there????

See what you mean Andy think i'll start finding out how much it would actually cost me to replace it??????????????????????? Let say i did decide to do this what else should i do while the engine's outs,anything else that needs servicing or is worth changing while the engine is out? cheers

Thing is that will tell me if det is occuring but can i link to the ECU?

Paul what's a knock link sensor where do i find it how much and how do i fit it????? Cheers

Cheers Andy thought as much,my argument is so many cars don't even have a det sensor even modern cars, so have they fitted something which just makes us feel confident then when it's taken away, we feel like we miss it and it's needed. However if there is a problem then the engine will brake,but i'm sure there are lots of other reasons why an engine could brake and no sensors to help prevent it. I don't drive the car in the week,as the wife takes it to and from work,i just fit the resistor when i'm off for a drive at the weekend.............however i know people that have a resistor fitted permanently and have done for over two years now........

Ok i know it's been done to death but i've been driving with this probably since i've had the car,now a year. Recently i tried the resistor trick and ***k me ,what a difference now it works properly,has anyone had the same problem and just uses a resistor,if so for how long and any problems since using it. Which solution has anyone else tried: A Replaced the knock sensor at great cost. B Replaced the sensor but relocated without taking out the engine C Just use a resistor. Cheers........................

Daft i know but having my cat put down after 13 years, watching him staring at me in the eyes 'till he was gone, worst day of my life.............

E-bay? If the tyres are £500 don't think i could even afford the wheels

Sold my NA last year to a nice chap somewhere north of Watford,just wondering if he managed to join the site and if he still has the car????? It was grey metallic and in pristine condition....

Best way to get full power would be in a twin turbo :o) Scotty any idea's on price for your wheels?

Cheers John Alex

When the car is cold it idle's around 1500,when it warms up it drops to around 750,when it gets hotter it goes up to around 1200 and seems to stay there until it gets cold again??????? Any ideas?

I had exactly the same thing,when the brakes wear and the pads become thin the pistons have to move a little further and do start to creak. Best thing is to put in new pads,this should stop the problem... BTW i tried everything else copper grease,cleaning the pads and everything around it,sandpaper on the pads.........nothing.........changed the pads creak goes!!!

I want that one!

Andy not tried that yet will do tomorrow: sorry Vijay it's 07760 253430