veilside01702

Happy Birthday Richie........ Hope you had a good day....... :happybday:

Happy Birthday Dave......... YOU OLD GIT!!!!!......... lol....... Hope you are enjoying your trip...... See you Tuesday!!!!! :balloon::balloon::happybday::balloon::balloon: Enjoy the ride......... lol

I will second Si's weapon of choice and Soda Blast....... it will just wash away afterward and leaves a protective coat on bare metal till powder coated......

Stunning there Daz......... Worth all the hard work you have put into her....... SWEET!

I am on holiday this Saturday with family camping, But I will drive up to you next weekend if you need a hand Ted.......?? I can lift, push, pass tools..... even make a cuppa tea..... if needed...... If it means you don't throw in the towel in the final round!

Oh for god sake TED........ Have a Snickers...... you turn into a right Diva when your hungry!!!!!! Are you using an alignment tool to make sure the clutch is centred? Just to say I ACTUALLY.... went for a short spin to work and back today in my Z.......... then to hairdressers to get barnet bashed....... Cold transmission and she drives, slipping drive a bit, holding gears.... but was nice to hear her purr and driving her with dodgy transmission is still better than staring at her every day! I am content till I manage to find someone to fit the replacement transmission, prop shaft, etc....

Hi Mex, welcome to the forum..... I know Tomomontana has a breaker as well as BAZ having a few........ they should have the clips and rubber seal....... Russ

Did you mean a VR38DETT ... Lol Now that would be scary..... Nice car.... I love the look of that and seeing your work it will be done to a very high standard....

Well I got 30 minutes to fabricate / macgyver something to clamp the TT speed sensor about 225 degrees clockwise. I swapped the plastic gear on the end for the bigger NA one. I read it should be 180 degree, but turns freely upto 270 degree. At 180 it feels as if the gear isn't engaged properly, so went for how it felt rotating between 180 and tight at 270.... I used an old scooter clamp from my sons broken stunt scooter as it was perfect at 32mm ID. I then marked the old screw hole on it and drilled a hole for an socket bolt. nice snug fit, no movement.... Perfect... This way I can loosen and adjust the sensor easily... This is thanks to Andrew's help earlier today.... Thanks again!

Thank you so much for that Andrew..... I tried searching using so many different searches and found nothing..... typical.... Now at least I can Fabricate something to work..... Russ

RIGHT..... I've hit a snag..... and searched everywhere and can't find any info!!! HELP please....... I found on a few sites you need to change the speed sensor on the TT auto box as it puts the speedo out due to my car having an NA rear diff...... I went to swap my NA sensor into the TT box and found it is too big to fit in the hole..... Does anyone have any knowledge of this or how to proceed please???

I am after an Auto TT prop shaft front section.... Don't need the rear section as I need it for a frankenstein job on my NA one... Cheers Russ

So does the lighting relay click when activated? Is there a separate relay for illumination to the main lighting relay? How did they check the fuses?..... did they check that there is 12v before and after fuses?.... or just that they aren't blown? Did they test the fuse able link is still ok? You need a circuit diagram..... Check the earth to the cluster is good. You would need a multimeter and set it to continuity / buzzer, check between earth point on bodywork and earth point on the cluster. If that is good then set meter to DC voltage and start at battery. Test for 12v before and after fuse able link, then either side of fuses as they can look good, but be open circuit. Test 12v in to relay and 12v out of relay are there.... as even though they click... this doesn't mean the contacts inside aren't corroded or damaged.... Work towards dash cluster.... It could also be the lighting control switch as this feeds the lights and the cluster..... Only diagram I can find is for a ssangyong Musso....... Sorry.... Russ

Oh Man...... Met you once a few years ago with your lovely Z and now you sell her and your leaving...... All the best for the future, hope you will pop in to say Hi from time to time...? Being a Z lover and forum member doesn't mean you need to own a Z to pop in for a chat...... Take care.... Russ

Happy Birthday Graham...... as close as i could find to groover..... lol

Very nice work there sir........ looks like new......

When you refit the wires and crimp them in, make sure you trim them back enough to lose all the green corrosion and have bright wire showing and make sure it is long enough for the connector to clip back in.... If there is corrosion on where the connector clips onto, use contact cleaner and a fibreglass pen to rub / wash off the corrosion.... http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/abrasive-fibreglass-pencil-kr61r http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-contact-cleaner-200ml-n61an I used this on all my under bonnet connectors to help remove corrosion from old connectors..... Get about 8mm sticking out the end of the pen and gently scrub metal of connectors with the tip of the pen fibres. .......... Do not inhale the fine fibreglass fibres....!! It will clean your connectors nicely, I usually blast with compressed air can and then spray some contact cleaner to blast away any debris left. Then wait for it to evaporate and then refit the connector.... If not then a trimmed thin nail file ( thin cheap fibre board type pack ) will make it easy to gently remove surface corrosion from the flat blade pins in a connector.... Gently.... Then contact cleaner... Russ

Try them.... Looks like the crimps could be the same... Should fit the original block... http://www.altecautomotive.co.uk/6-way-multi-connector-including-terminals-450-p.asp

Ouch....... how good are you at soldering then? I am guessing as good as your welding knowing you..... lol You getting one from a breaker and soldering on with heat shrink or getting new connectors, cutting wires back and clipping into original connector block?

Hi taff, I just refurbished mine all round and the ones on mine were all the same thread and pitch.... but had different size nipples on the end, from the front ones to the rears....

I didn't change any duplicates..... I just added titles...... ???

I used Speed bleeders on OEM rear callipers..... M10 x 1.0 in stainless steel..... worked out about £15 each plus import tax......

lol..... I threw it up quickly then went to edit it as you posted.... :tt2:

JAIKAI............... we miss you....... lol

Errm..... the link doesn't work Jeff...... You maybe good at mending a Z... but can you mend the link???....... lol