dougal200

you can always just pull the fuse for track work

well you first port of call would be a good service oil change filters plugs cambelt/waterpump if needed (60k or 5 years) check for boost leaks consult check all the above should get you running somewhere near factory and im sure that 90% of zeds out there would see a significant performance increase from where they were. if the car is an ex forum members car then chances are it has been better maintained and should be running quite well already next would be a cat back exhaust and performance filter which should see you well over 300hp a chip, downpipe/turbo elbows, boost jets and a remap would see you about as far as you can go on a budget but should net you around 360-380hp by this time the clutch (if its a manual) will be having some trouble so budget for an uprated item. if its an auto and in good nick you should be ok as long as the oil is kept nice and clean- an aditional auto cooler will be needed if its an import also dont forget the suspension/brakes/tyres, these cars are getting on for 20 years old and with near on 400 hp you will be wanteing to stop and corner well that should keep you busy and welcome to the club

The best way to remove a spigot is to pack the hole full of grease then find a close fitting bar and wack it to compress the grease. The s pigot should pop out

do a diagnostic and check for code 55 is normal. you may have a dett sensor issue which would retard the ignition

he still has pas pots and a few odds and sods going on. i would really like to try to go for this look. only problem is that the zed engine is a little on the big/complicated side. ill see what i can do about that

sliverbullet- tink you might be more serious about the performance aspect than me. here are a few pic to show the look in after

looking good mate. got a bit of a stealth plan for my pas pot

Just wondered if anyone has done the full works so far i have relocated battery to the boot deleted aivs,egr, carbon canister and hicas relocated fuse box to under nose pannel going to relocate fuel filter to under wing metal work wise im filling all holes, removed battery tray, smoothed strut tops/inner arches/chassis rails. basically the only thing i want in the engine bay is the engine and brake servo. has anyone done anything with the loom so it is simplified was thinking of relocating ptu to under nose (should help keep it cooler) temp sensor wires to come from under throttle cover reroute the loom that runs along the sides of the engine. has anyone relocated the small fuse box near the brake servo? my aim is to make things as simple as possible/hide wires and make access alot better. obviously im going to have to cut/extend some wires but that will be good as i will basically make a new loom. what trunking looks best?

that sounds about right. swb ones are flatter. i have some spare lwb ones if you want to make a pair:yes:

they are different but very similar. i would have thought a lwb one might sort of fit in a swb, i can check if you like

no problems mate, your best bet would be at least to get some gunk/degreaser, clean them off then jetwash them off. should get most of the real flakey bits off. As carmad says hammerite is ok as long as the prep is ok the main thing is that you are willing to do something about preserving the car a bit.

if you want to do the job properly i would recomend you take the arms off and at the very least remove all old cru/rust/paint off with a wire brush in an angle grinder etc. A coat of hamerite would do the trick but por 15 is better, personally i have shot blasted all my arms and then painted the in satin 2k but my car is more of a restoration/show car so im doing the best job possible. i have done this for all arms/crossmember/brackets. most bolts i will also have replated or i will replaced with stainless (none safety critical). speaking from experience the best treatment for the underside is to strip back to bare metal and remove all traces of rust paying attention to the seams (its where the rust will start) coat wil a good zink or etch primer then apply either stone chip or 2k then stone chip. when applying underbody protection like stone chip or schutz(underseal) remember that you are sealing in whatever is underneath so a patch of rust will be left to grow under there, even worse it that as it is covered up you will not be able to pick up on it untill its quite bad. its a big effort to properly treat the underside of a car, dont confuse it with a garage just blowing over a coat of underseal. once done inject some decent cavity wax (try to use something better than wax oil) into every concievable bit you can humanly get to. using a decent wax will displace and existing moisture in your sills etc and more critically penitrate all of the seams. i realise that i have probobly made you even more confused but i hope this goes a little way towards helping. if you want any more details then let me know. Pete

looks stunning mate, the rears look spot on, if anything you could go out a bit on the fronts and perhapse very slightly lower all round. the wheels look great though as does the paint

my other half's uncle has a stingray, looks nice from afar but the interior and finish of trim bits etc is just nasty. sounds good though. love the black one in rush hour

what is it then, i wont slate you? old and british?

if you could buy a rusty tt manual it would be well worth it, as far as i know the only bits on the body are the lower rad mounts which need moving out a bit. i cant see its going to be much harder than changing an engine. you would need all the intercooler pipes and mountings etc but they would come with a donor. if you have just the engine and box, i have all the pipes. lots of people will be able to take photos the show where all the bits go. or just stick a v8 in it

there is a diagram flooating around, think its in the faq section

ill have to meet up with you guys once the car is back on the road guess what, its black too

good work, ill look out for it in ppc

think you will not be dissapointed with those two choices, will you be getting dave walker to map it?

please do some swb ones even if i have just removed all the stone chip

the plastic bumper behind may be catching on the foglight bits

Front half of the propose is the same back is not. The rumble could be either clutch release bearing or input shaft bearing. Most likely the former

as said above, if the car has an lsd then the brake test should be conducted on the road

i want that bumper soooooo much