dougal200

my fronts are 17 x 9 et 20 (with spacer) and rears 17 x 10 et 38 and i hope these will be about spot on

thanks boldy, hope yours is going ok, any pics of your fuel pipes etc

fingers are ok for the moment mate, have you been using the sandpaper the correct way up:tt2: Having a bit of a night off tonight as it is our business' 3rd anniversary. back on it tomorrow

as far as im aware nissan only used clear laquer, but i could be wrong. something that you should also know is that you must not rub down the base coat at all or else it will look different to the area next to it. it is designed to be a matt finish that only goes glossy after clear. the only real way to repair clear over base is to rub it back and respray ideally feathering the base coat into the next panel then applying the clear over that. of course i you arnt after a perfect result you may just want to spay some more clear over then rub back and pollish. ps 2k paints contain cyanide you have been warned- wear at the very least a carbon canister mask, i would only wear an air feed, but its your body not mine. hope you dont take this as me trying to put you off but i dont want you to be disappointed or even worse dead

bit of an update for tonigh but no photos as its a bit boring. ive been cracking on with sanding down the high build and got about half way round the engine bay. its a swine of a job as there are so may complex curves and tight spots. for those that dont know the basic technique is to apply a dust coat of a contrasting colour to the primer as you can see in my last photo. you then keep on sanding untill there is either no red (i used red as the dust coat) or you break through to the etch/metal underneath. if the latter occurs you have to re apply some etch over the bare metal and then more high build locally over the area. when all the dust coat is gone and you still have paint all over the area you have in theory a totally flat panel ready for top coat. im using 600 grit wet and dry paper and in this case im using it wet. if you are using a none 2k high build i would advise using it dry as celulose based single pack is hydroscopic and you will end up with water under your top coat which will result in blisters at a later date. that is unless you have an oven. ill post up some pics tomorrow

its only a bit of harmless banter, i love all zeds really:rockon:

cool ,thanks mate our cars are the same colour at the moment:thumbup1:

all you lwb lovers are in denial, admit it you secretly prefere the swb:yes:

thanks mate, is it usual practice to blend them into the sills or are you blending them into the bodywork totally?

your not wrong with the time consuming bit mate, must have put around 100 hours into the engine bay alone. hope it looks ok after paint, in a bit concerned about this as i need the finish out of the gun to be spot on as polishing the engine bay will be a complete pita if i have to rub down any orange peel or runs. on the bonnet and doors etc i have not been to bothered as i can just wet sand then then polish. might get a guy at work to give me a hand as he is an ex pro painter

actually while i think of it carmad do you have any pics of how you side skirts fit inside the door jam along the top of the sills. im planning on a set of your new skirts for the swb when they are made and i have alot of prep to do in this area. i dont want to have to do a perfect job if im going to cover it in skirt.

i may need some pictorial help with that for a few of the brackets etc. got most of it sussed though

well a few updates for today after getting on a coat of etch last night and some seam sealer i sanded off the excess sealer and reapplied some etch over the sealer left to dry for a few hours i then mixed up about 1/2 liter of 2k high build got out the airfed mask, gloves and suit. 20 mins later and this is the result left to dry for another hour or so and on goes the guide coat so tomorrow night once this lot has been left to cure ill be getting out the wet and dry. still hope to have the top coat on this weekend, perhaps even get the subframe on etc but still got to finish under the arches. now im off to bed

its the breather from the tank and goes into the carbon canister

the swb is also quite a bit lighter, i would much prefere my fuel tank in the middle of the car than sitting out the back like a big petrol filled bumper. owned both, swb wins every time and has a better boot space

well got the engine bay finished and sprayed in etch today followed by a little bit of seam sealer where needed. no photos though as my camera died. tomorrow night should see some 2k high build on there followed by an evening of rubbing down. should be good for top coat by next weekend, also need to polish/clean up the suspension bolts that show through in the engine bay so the front suspension can go back on and make the car mobile. ill post some pics tomorrow

have you adjusted your tps (throttle position sensor) lots of links to that somewhere

Thanks guys. The v8 is a lexus 1uz from an sc400 or sourer std they make about 280 bhp but are very restricted.the engines are enensly strong and even put nissan engineering to shame. its all alloy with 6 bolt mains, dohc with one cam driven of the other by a gear. its very light for its size. Its actually a supra gearbox sitting on top without the bellhousing but it does look alot like a supercharger, which you can fit there. my plans for the engine are to either twin turbo it using some gt28rs' or a big single holset. the fantastic thing about the engine is its ability to resist detonation. you can run about 15psi on decent sized turbo with the std compression ratio meaning you dont loose and of the engines emense low down grunt and the turbos kick in real early. i will probobly use water injection with it to. power would be in the region of 500-600bhp but with epic torque. it was going into my s14 which is a longer term project put on hold while i "tart up the 300" getting a bit tired of working on the car every evening now so once the 300 is done with the vg back in i might just work on the v8 when i feel like it and see which car i feel like putting it in. going to crack on now, that engine bay aint going to paint itself.

hope so mate, it was only going to be a quick refresh to be ready for the shows this year, at least it shoild be ready for next year. got a big box of stainless allen heads to go on it. not sure how well it will go down at shows against cars like the beast or beegees chrome mobile, its going to be very subtle.

was that quick enough? thanks mate, love your project too

here are a few pics of the rest of the car rear 1/4 with antena welded up all ready for high build talegate with spoiler holes/wiper arm welded up passanger 1/4 still needs some work interior- what can i say. the trim has been recovered in gray alcantara and is stored in my house, retrimmed the factory recaros to match. some goodies in the cupboard ready to fit all hinges sprayed up gloss black ready to fit along with the mirrors and handles (in the box) tempted to fit this- lexus v8 being adapted to run two t28s all front suspension shot blasted and painted 2k satin black doors, bonnet, tagas, 99 spec bumper,headlamp panel etc all painted and stored away as i dont have the space/time to do it all at once one final pic my 99 spec converted lights (fitted before strip down)

for anyone who is interested here are a few snaps of where im up to on my restoration/customisation. ive mainly focused on the engine bay as that is what im doing at the moment engine bay was taken back to bare metal, this is just about the last of it pas pot has been moved to here to here, hicas has been removed, inner wing deseamed/smoothed. all holes have been welded up (except a few that i still need) same goes for this area too, there will be nothing here except the brake servo/clutch master cylinder Alot of work has gone on in this area, the battery tray has been removed which revealed a few holes where the battery had leaked, the upper suspension mounting had also had a bit of a bash at some time and had distorted the reinforced panel. i cut out the whole panel in this area and replaced it with one cut out of my breaker. all spot welds drilled out etc and welded back to look factory-also checked to correct chassis dims. you can see which panel i mean as its red (weld through etch primer) same goes for the passanger side, i have replaced the headlamp pod aswell, it had been repaired to a good standard but i was not happy, it would appear my breaker had a bad bump (bent the chassis rail) but they had replaced the headlamp pod with a new nissan item so this was grafted onto my car aswell. all looks perfect now. the fusebox will go under the nose panel on the inside of the chassis leg opposite the pas pot both chassis rails have been given the smooth treatment too fuel filter has been moved down here where all the aiv stuff used to live, the stock fuel lines have been tweaked to pop up under the chassis rail where you can just see the little notch. the fuel lines will then go up through the panel above (where battery used to be). ill use a jic bulkhead fitting here so in the engine bay i will have aeroquip type braided hoses with propper connectors in stealth black onto an adapted fuel pipe. tomorrow i will spray the bay in a final coat of etch, then seam seal a few bits. might even get on to giving it a coat of 2k high build. Colour will be pure gloss black. im going for a very stripped out look in the bay, no wires showing and nothing but the engine to see. colour scheme will be stricktly black and silver/chrome/pollished aluminium. hope you enjoy.

looking fantastic mate, ive been trying to decide if im going to stick the vg back in my shell once its restored or go down the v8 route. i have a lexus v8 in the corner that was going to go into my s14. one question, how did you clean up the overflow tank so well

infact i forgot, i have a swb and its at the back. need to engage brain

i would like to relocate mine under there but its going to be a bit cluttered, already got a fuse box and pas pot going there