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Standard seats aren't they? Retrimmed in alcatara in the middle and standard leather on the sides.

A quaffe diff and or leader gears will help more than a power boost aswel won't it? You,ll lose a bit of top end speed but its doubtful you'll ever get near that on the roads. Like has been said, getting these things off the line is an art, I have yet to master. So anything that helps with that is favorite. You got the right car? 0-60 being your thing? Imagine an impreza or an evo would do it far better. I chased this with my 1st Z. Not an easy 1. Cheers. Danny

Is say the skyline or 350z brembos are fine. Are you going on track? That always adds demand on brakes. I have the R33 brembos, with ferrodo da2500 pads and dba discs and they've been fine on road and track. And I'm running over 400bhp. Think I'd probably upgrade at some point but they're serving me well. Cheers Danny

Cheers guys. Don't know if my mechanic fancies doing the spacing stuff. And quaife don't do it either so is there anywhere in the northwest that can do this. Want to be getting it all sorted this week. I've got a spare diff ready for the swap. Hope this diff is worth it. But got play in my current one so changing it anyway. Thanks again. Danny

Hi mate, I'd given up on this thread and assumed I'd be conveying on my own. I'm just up the road from you in horwich. So the numbers have just doubled.when I find out what time the track session is I'll be in touch. Mines in the garage at the min. Hope its ready. Cheers. Danny

Popular diff then. No one got one or had any experience with one? Or does everyone put an n/a diff on. I don't wana do that. Cheers Danny

Few questions about diffs. I'm looking to get a quaife ATB on my car. Firstly, any reasons why not? Anyone got one and is it worth it. Second, i believe I've got to send my diff casing into quaife so they can fit it and space it etc. Is this so? If So I was thinking of getting a diff from a breaker, send that in, then its straight swap when mines getting done. Final question, my far was an auto TT. Now converted to manual TT. And is a UK. Apart from the oil cooler, are there any differences in diff casings. Cheers in advance. Danny

Anyone from the northwest areas convoying, or even goin to the japfest this year. Ill be going down early, depending on what time the track session is this year, has been daft oclock in previous years. Have thought about going down the night before and staying over if its mega early but just want to see what everones doing. cheers danny

the todays post then search option works. cheers. danny

Cheers for the advice guys. Looking like the specialityz sump i think. Just for simplicity. do like the idea of pre-oiling that the accusump gives, but every engine ive had and most other engines manage fine without that feature. Anyone any idea how much they work out at imported and roughly how long it takes to arrive. Got a lot of work on hold waiting for that to arrive. Have emailed them with similar questions. Will keep everyone updated. Although its one of those things that you dont know if its working or not. IVe done a few trackdays and the engine hasnt blown up, or even dropped oil pressure. But its worth it for peace of mind. Thanks again. danny

Can do everything else but can't search. Any ideas? Cheers Danny

I just thought that if the cooler was upstream of the sump and was massive, then it would hold just enough to keep supply going untill the bend was over. But im only guessing there. So the sumps looking like the one. Bigger the bette? and more baffled the better i assume? danny

Ah, never thought of that. Can it not work part charged. To be honest, have favoued the baffled sump option for simplicity aswel. have done a few trackdays with no problems already, probably due to the massive oil cooler keeping things flowing. If oil flows in that direction that is. cheers though, keep it coming. danny

As title really, know there are many threads about each. But im wondering, for the occasional trackday and general spirited driving and a highly modded engine, which is best suited. My car has full interior, dont want an oil can in a footwell or anything in the boot. Wana keep what practicality it has. So things i wana compare: Cost of each. Ease of use/servicing, i like regular servicing and dont want it to be 8 litres at a time. How good each is at doing there job of protecting from oil starvation. Availability. And anything anyone wants to add. any advice welcome. thanks in advance. danny

There's a thread in advanced tuning under 'crankcase pressure' by silverbullit. he's done it and a few others on there. ill be doing this later in the year. most turbo cars running higher boost use oil catch tanks. the standard setup isn't up to handing the extra blow by and as said, the intake charge isn't clean and running higher boost you'll run a higher risk of det. not an expert, just the way it was explained to my by an expert while on a rolling road. Hope this helps. cheers Danny

I have the gr2871rs with all supporting mods. Not what id call laggy. Although not had the full effect of them because I need new actuators (so not all supporting mods). But they boost very smoothly and progressively, mines used mainly on road with occasional trackday. And not much will touch it in a rolling start race. Do need massive cooling though, water and oil cooled so both rads will need to be up to it. And I'm only comparing to a Z with standard turbos running 14psi. Fast, but a nowere near this beast. Probably a random post, but just my opinion of the disco potato. Cheers Danny

I've had two different ones on two different Z,s. The blitz DSBC and the greddy project e01. Both top pieces of kit in my opinion. Recon the profec is the best for user interface because it has a decent screen for showing boost and other things. Think they're both dual solanoid though, which I believe means they can react and adjust the boost twice as quick as a single solanoid. I'm no expert but that's my opinions. Not a part I would want to do on the cheap. they do a very important job. Cheers. Danny

learnt to drive in a: 1 litre nissan micra, T reg. car i drove for my 1st year: 2 litre nissan QX, N reg. 1st car i owned: Nissan Almera SRi 1.6, N reg. Then: Nissan Almera Sport + 1.8, 51 reg Nissan almera GTi 2.0, R reg Nissan 300zx 93 UK TT manual, K reg Honda Civic Type R, 06 reg Nissan 300zx 94 UK TT manual, L reg. Plus a few run arounds in between. Slowly working my way up the nissan ladder. And i hate to say this but the best car ive ever owned was the civic type R. Everyday fast, usable, reliable etc. But the Z's just win your heart.

About 3pm on the hard shoulder southbound just after chorley, looked kitted. Typical, the 1st Z ive seen on the roads for months and it was broken down. Hope everything was alright. Looked nice by the way. danny

Cheers mate, yeah, hope so. Dont like intermitant faults. Cant relax till in know what it was and solve it. Bring on the experts. thanks danny

Well i was in the car today and its fixed itself. I notice that when the problem was there that i couldnt hear the boost solanoid as it came on boost. And even if i turned the boost controller off it made no difference. Back to normal now though, would still like to know if anyone has any ideas about what might have caused this. Its bound to go again. cheers danny

Since i got my Z out of its winter storage, the boost has been acting wierd. Before it went away it would peak at 18PSI then tail off as the revs rise. ( know why, thats not the problem). I have a greddy profec e01 and an aftermarket boost gauge. I havent changed any settings or touched anything under the bonnet. So the problem, The eo1 and aftermarket gauge are showing different readings. The e01 is down by 7psi, and it seems its trying to control the boost accordingly. If i turn the engine off but turn the ignition back on, the gauge reads 0psi, but the e01 shows -7 psi. and this goes on throught out the rev range. So at peak i get 0psi on the eo1, and about 10 (just under 0.7 bar) on the gauge. But, now here is the really strange bit, if i boot it, boost does as above, then if i let off, and boot it again, boost will hit closer to 16 psi on the gauge and about 7 on the eo1. Oh and just to make it even more difficult to diagnose, sometimes (rarely) ill get in it and the gauge and e01 are reading the same and all is well. HELP!!! Many thanks is advance to anyone who want to tackle this one. Danny

Well its happening again. Must have been a fluke that when i changed the little white box, they just happened to be behaving. Anyone got any other bright ideas because now i have changed absoloutly everything. And the few auto electritions ive asked dont want to know. I know this seems like a small problem on the grand scale of things but its bloody annoying. Someone please help me. Cant believe that this problem happens on so many Z's and no one has a solution. cheers danny

I have R33 GTR brembo brakes front and rear, and have a full set of new pads to go on. Anything unusual about the skyline calliers i should know about? Ive done pads on standard 300zx brakes and loads of other cars, just nothing with brembos. Cheers danny

I thought it was meant to hold full boost all the way up the revs. And ive also been told that the new actuators can be done in situ, just a ball ache. Im in the same boat, mine would spike to 20psi but be back down to 14 at redline. Cant wait to get it done and mapped. I think forge said about 165 quid each for actuators, that was for custom ones for my GT2871's. So must be similar. cheers danny