jimmer

Taking the rad hose off will only drain the rad and the very top of the engine.Youll need to remove the drain bungs on the side of the block.(bottom of engine either side in front of engine mount brackets).The engine needs 9ltrs of coolant to fill it according to the w/shop manual.

my ears are still bleeding from the noise.Shame the exhaust had to go on :D.Not sure your nieghbours would have approved either Simon.

Was that car on pistonheads if im not mistaken?.Recognise the number plate.Glenn on here had J2 EDX on his car.Been busy with that bud.Good on ya.swap the downpipes around.They are on the wrong sides.

Its very unlikely to be alarm/immobiliser related.they disable the cranking or fuel circuits.Have you checked the camshafts are turning,take the oil filler cap off look at the cam and crank the engine to see if it turns.It may have stripped the cambelt.Its common for belts to go on start up as they are under a lot of load.Fingers crossed its not that but its worth checking.

Coming up the m27 from Portsmouth saturday evening around 18.30 and passed a black z heading the other way.Anybody on here?

Big no no.Oz white wheels on a red lancia integrale goes but not yer zed bud.Funki will back me on this one for sure.

Are you sure you cant hear the electric fan running due to a bad conection on the temp switch.The temp switch is the one with the yellow plug on it on the water elbow at the front of the engine.If its unplugged or the connection is dirty the electric fan will stay on and as this is one of the sensors the ecu monitors (code 13) it can cause it to go into safety boost mode which would give you a reduction in power.

Same here,Mines also not black,g reg with 4 exhausts.and i was not in keynsham either :D.So cant help you im afraid !

Im so glad your happy.Many thanks again for the kind words.Got yourself a cracking zed there mate.Could have roadtested that for miles and miles :D.

Its the same thing.Just some peeps call it by different names.Truckers always refer to it as double de clutching.Thats from the good ole days of eaton twin splits and fuller road rangers.European truck boxes are syncromesh now.

Starting a car with the clutch down increases wear on the engines thrust bearings.Better to shake the stick left to right to ensure neutral then start it.The amount of load caused by turning the primary shaft and layshaft is negligible.

I was at Ashley down college today to collect a van and a canary yellow zed was in the car park,It had a black and yellow interior and stock wheels.Never seen it before?

You had the cas plug off? may be a dirty connection.Worth going back over all the connections to make sure they are clean and secure.Usually something daft in my experience.

A 265 would be stretched on a wheel that width.A 285 would be the best fit or 275 minimum.

Wow,Great find Mike,that motor is amazing.The figures for that conversion must look like a phone number.

Stock nissan sender goes straight in here and should not touch the steering u/j.Done it several times after fitting ball bearing turbos with braided lines and never had a problem.Its close granted but wont touch.

Do a compression test on the engine,Post up your readings on here.It may just be the pcv valves with some luck(fingers crossed for you).Check no 6 first,passenger side at the back as it is usually the first piston to suffer bore or ring problems which allows boost pressure into the crankcase which pushes the dipstick out.

yeh i had to read it again to get my head round it.But he deffo said it was spitting oil with the filler cap off. "Today I noticed that the dipstick had popped and checked for vapours from the oil filler. There were no vapours, but the oil was spitting out in small spots and I didnt know if the is normal or not, as I have never run the engine without its oil filler cap on before".

Dont panic about the oil from the filler.The camshaft runs directly underneath and acts like a waterwheel and will spit oil up with the cap off.

You want to get the rear wheel bearings done asap.They are a cassette type and if they have play it means they are on the way out.

Good luck with it chap.I dont want to put a damper on things but valve trouble on zeds is not as common as ring/bore failure.If cost is a major issue then get a good s/hand tested engine for your car.

To do the test at home is a little awkward.Youll need a compressor and some sort of adaptor so you can blow air into the cylinder and keep it under pressure.the cylinder must be at tdc on its compression stroke so both valves are closed.If you get air leaking out both valves you be on tdc between the intake and exhaust strokes.You should remove the dipstick and rad cap so you can check for escaping air.Keep the throttle plates open also.If you can hear air out the dipstick tube,your rings are leaking,if you get bubbles in your coolant its the headgasket,if you have air escaping out the exhaust its the exhaust valve and if the air comes out the plenum its the inlet valve.Expect some air to escape out the dipstick as the engine is 20 years old but just compare it to one of your good cylinders.if you dont want to do this,add a teaspoon of oil to the low cylinder.If the reading comes up like the others the chances are its the bore/piston if it stays around the same its a valve.

On a zed the test is done with all the spark plugs removed,the engine should be hot.And remove the fuel pump fuse also.The manual states to open the throttle but the balance pipe will be off anyway.

You dont mean your not getting the valve guides checked for wear and the seats re cut seriously?? If not consider the high compression your new pistons and tubs will be making and the tired pitted valve seats trying to retain the pressure. You should add vtc springs,pcv breather kit,new bridge hoses,thermostat and crank sprocket to your list.And as previously stated you want to change the cambelt and tensioner with the two idlers.

Happy bruffday Mr Pickwick.:duffer: