jimmer

If you really wanna piss matey off over encroaching items into zone a.Fit smaller wiper blades and he cant do a thing about it.Zone A is the wipers swept area.smaller wipers smaller swept area ;).

I work for vosa.Everytime i do an mot im working for them.Thats how they see it.Those failures are shit i must say.If a car has 4 washer jets and one isnt working i wouldnt fail it.The test asks for sufficient water on the screen.it doesnt specify that all jets must work.Some of those failures are horse shit in my opinion.Id complain but dont carry out any repairs if you do.I know for a fact that as a tester you get in more trouble for incorrectly failing items than incorrectly passing them.The critera is black and white to make it easy.What it doesnt allow for is idiots that dont know how to apply the testers manual.

Might have my new injectors by the 21st and have mine going again.Will want to stretch her legs after being off the road so long.

A power balance test is a good way of measuring how a cylinder is performing.If the cylinder is consistantly low it may point to a problem.Compression test is the next step mate.

Get some pics up of that stunning re vamped back from the dead motor.Im doing my best to spend my inheritance now.Any chance of that Jun $12000 engine stroker kit Dad ??:p

Do a search on z1.They do sell some modded returns for certain applications

If your going for the 530bb or gt535 tubs then fit cometic headgaskets. 051" thickness should be fine and compensate for any skimming

The convertor will stay put on the g/box and stop your drive swimming with dexron.

Having done this a few times :rolleyes: i can say 100% that there is NO need to remove the g/box (auto or manual) when removing the engine.Once the rad etc is out,the top and sides of the engine are stripped and all the lwr bellhousing bolts are removed.With the car raised on axle stands,support the front x member with a jack.undo its 4 secouring bolts to the chassis and undo the engine mount nuts whilst your there,Remove the pinch bolt on the steering u.j.Not the one holding the u.j to the rack but where it meets the shaft.Lower the engine a few inches on the x member so you can get your arm down the back and remove the four top bolts, and the 10mm bolt securing the g/box harness to the rear of the engine drivers side.The earth lead can be left on and pulled with the engine if you undo it from the bulkhead.Youll need to support the g/box.If its an auto do not place a jack straight under the pan,place wood under it to spread the load.Once youve done this out she comes.Just to add if its an auto remove the box to engine/engine bracket by the filter and pull out the shield.by turning over the engine via the crank pulley you can undo the torque converter bolts from the back of the drive plate.

Having cats fitted is not in the mot criteria.Passing the cat emission test is though.

Dont forget youll need higher flow injectors with the gt535s.555 would be the minimum.Even on there stock wastegate setting of around 11psi you could still max out the standard ones and kill your engine with detonation.

To fit an unmarked damper.Set your engine to tdc or "0" on the crank.Remove the damper being careful not to move the engine.Clean up the nose of the crank and re check the crank has not moved by half fitting the original damper and seeing if the notch lines up with the "0".If it does fit the new pulley then mark it in line with the "0" when viewed from above as if you were strobing the timing.Tighten the crank bolt.job done.

Can anybody confirm if the 96-99 vq30 injectors are the same fitment as the 95 300zx.Im 99.9% sure they are but would like to make sure before i commit myself.

I was thinking the same.The caliper doesnt have sliders like a single pot so how can that failure apply.I think the testers been over zealous.The failure critera has been mis interpeted.That should have failed on excessive bind if the calipers sticking.

No offence but judging by your previous efforts id dig deep and pay someone.Those faults are not common so it sounds like something you may have done.

Glad you got it sorted Chris in the end.Brake pipes can be a nightmare when they get corroded.Sometimes heat just aint enough.

Grind a flat on one side of the fitting.go careful that you dont go to deep and hit the threads.It should release the grip and allow it to be undone.

30k is strong but a twin cam mk 1 escort was rare when it came out.Now its even rarer.A well sorted Rs2 can fetch over 10k.The mk2 Rs 1800 goes for around 15k+ if its original and tidy.Your not just buying a mk1 escort but a piece of motoring history.Swap my zed for that anyday.

If you mean the figures Legrath quoted then your very mistaken.Those tubs are good for 370rwhp as he said ;)

If the missus plays up Si,Get the string vest and soveriegns on.Couple of stellas and a quick back hander works a treat mate.They soon learn not to play up.

That does sound like a big end knock im afraid bud.Pulling the coil pack off will as your mate says take the load off the piston and reduce the noise.Im not tyring to put a damper on things mate but the shells might not cure it.The crank may be damaged and the con rods can go oval from the hammering its get banging around on the crank journal.fingers crossed you may get away with the shells.If the journal has gone blue at the edges and has scoring that you can feel with your thumbnail then it probaly needs grinding.If it just has mild scoring then you can clean up the journals with some 180 grit emery cloth kept wet with wd40.Keep going till the scoring cleans up.As a final test run a 2p coin over the journal,if it leaves copper behind then the journal needs further sanding or is maybe to far gone.Any mild marks will come out using the emery.

I like to drink ailments into submission.Brandy or whiskey in large doses as many times nightly as possible :D.

They did,some Skylines had it fitted.

Do they have specsavers in kent?

Is he keeping it a secret,If i whispered he wouldnt know i told you Lol !!