jimmer

i still say if its been stood it needs more of a chance before you give up.

cheers guys its good to hear peoples experiences.

Best wishes to everyone,next years gonna be tough for a lot of people,lets hope its all good for us on here.

Thanks for the repiles guys, im looking at spending around £1500 i suppose,would love to spend more but i have a load of building work to undertake in the front room and hallway so thats gonna zap a bit of lolly.I heard loads of bad stuff about how shoddy DFS Stuff is,and then did some homework on SCS and every review i found was negative,sofa damaged,breaks in months,not delivered for weeks when promised.Jesus its a minefield.I know all these places say the chairs have a ten year guarantee but from what ive gathered they usually dont honour it.

Missus took me around a load of furniture shops today :sleep1:.Jeez was mind numbing.Found a few we liked but when i got home and checked the retailers reviews :ohmy: .Has anybody on here had a bad experience with SCS or DFS ? seems lots of people have.

Youd have to be different wouldnt you :lol:

Dont you mean less as the axis is the lower balljoint ? :oops:

My thoughts exactly,dont get me wrong i loved top gear but some of the cars they are ruining now is a joke to get more laughs !! and showing Clarkson releasing r12 gas to ruin Mays air con was just plain daft,thats a fine of up to 10k in this country i was told on an A/C course.Its got predictable and rather purile imho.

just found the special notice http://www.motuk.co.uk/images/SpecialNotice05-93.pdf

worn tension rod rose joint almost for sure,rose joints were never intended for road use so pot holes etc wear them out in no time.Jack up the car and lever the tyre,youll be surprised,dont be worried about slight movement in the top arm bush as that is normal.Vosa put out a special notice around the time the 300,s started needing mot,s as testers were failing them when they were fine.

Even with that low compression it should still start eventually,bare in mind your not sure if it flooded so it may be bore washed which would explain the compression figures.Get it up and running first before condemning it.The lifters will take a while to prime up so the valves may not be opening properly.dont give up yet.How are you supposed to strobe it with no timing mark on the damper?.Put the stock one back on,set to tdc then mark the engines position,put car in gear too hinder the engine turning.Refit the underdrive pulley,check you engines not moved off tdc then mark new pulley.

Have you actually cashed the money in and what illegall drugs are you currently administering by intrevenious injection ?

A scam is where there is some sort of intelligent trickery,that e mail certainly does not fall into that catergory !! how anyone could fall for that god only knows.I wouldnt even describe that as a "scam" its so poorly devised.A random e mail offering you $14 million i mean come on please,anyone that is that greedy and sends details imho deserves to get screwed anyway.

Its more than likely the screw the pod is held with has pierced the targa drain tube in the windscreen pillar.

THe manual isnt wrong its just that hes a retard !! Lol.

More lag ?? the air is able to flow more freely with the larger cooler matey.

hi is this paul from partco ? 07867801948 give us a bell tonite mate and we can have a chat cheers jimmer

Id like to see you try and lift a 75 kg sach twin plate clutch into a Renault kerax or Magnum.Thats nearly 12 stone which is probaly more that you way i bet Mikey as you are a bit of a racing snake.And you cant lay on your back and use yer knees like a zed box either.

Iirc the rears can be failed for uneven application,Vosa word it as not rising at the same rate dont they or words to that effect ?

Z32 actuators are set from the factory.The rod is not threaded for adjustment.

Im not testing anymore but i still hear of sorry tales regarding the "discretion" of idiot testers.Tyre garages always seem the worst,some of the fails ive seen are hilarious.Rear pads are a goody and worn or pitted discs that were advisory only imho.I had a call from an employee at the garage i used to test because the tester had failed his car over a 40% imbalance on the rear,i told him thats not right as uneven application only applies on the rear service brake.The test quality varies so much between stations its untrue.

just strop the plenum in the middle,once the coil packs are out its easy,the car will need raising on axle stands,oh and by the way,this advice is free at the moment,get your wallet out and subscribe as i think you have had yer moneys worth :whistling:.Joking aside get subscribing chap.

Raise the car on stands,remove all the lower bell housing bolts.support the crossmember.Undo its fixings and the column pinch bolt(not the rack end).lower the engine a few inches and get down behind the engine and undo the top four bellhousing bolts and the earth lead,also the main live that runs to the starter will need releasing from a bracket at the rear of the engine.once shes all undone,support the box and remove the engine simples.

You sir are clearely insane :yes:.I just dont see how it is,having done both ways id say box in is much less aggro.No fluids to drain,no exhaust to drop,no prop to deal with and no huge lump hanging off the end of your engine crane.And you have to split the box anyway if your changing the engine,and refitting the box on the floor aint that great either,in the cars not fantastic granted but i can do them on my own in the car whereas trying to lift and fit a box back onto an engine is a pain in my opinion on your own.

Having done many 300zx engine removals,not thousands but more than 30 id always LEAVE the box in.I know Jeff at Zedworld leaves them in also,taking the box out is needless,more mess and more work and makes none of the job any easier.Especially if your working on the floor.Anybody that says it is is clearly insane and needs sectioning forthwith :laugh:.