jimmer

THe manual isnt wrong its just that hes a retard !! Lol.

More lag ?? the air is able to flow more freely with the larger cooler matey.

hi is this paul from partco ? 07867801948 give us a bell tonite mate and we can have a chat cheers jimmer

Id like to see you try and lift a 75 kg sach twin plate clutch into a Renault kerax or Magnum.Thats nearly 12 stone which is probaly more that you way i bet Mikey as you are a bit of a racing snake.And you cant lay on your back and use yer knees like a zed box either.

Iirc the rears can be failed for uneven application,Vosa word it as not rising at the same rate dont they or words to that effect ?

Z32 actuators are set from the factory.The rod is not threaded for adjustment.

Im not testing anymore but i still hear of sorry tales regarding the "discretion" of idiot testers.Tyre garages always seem the worst,some of the fails ive seen are hilarious.Rear pads are a goody and worn or pitted discs that were advisory only imho.I had a call from an employee at the garage i used to test because the tester had failed his car over a 40% imbalance on the rear,i told him thats not right as uneven application only applies on the rear service brake.The test quality varies so much between stations its untrue.

just strop the plenum in the middle,once the coil packs are out its easy,the car will need raising on axle stands,oh and by the way,this advice is free at the moment,get your wallet out and subscribe as i think you have had yer moneys worth :whistling:.Joking aside get subscribing chap.

Raise the car on stands,remove all the lower bell housing bolts.support the crossmember.Undo its fixings and the column pinch bolt(not the rack end).lower the engine a few inches and get down behind the engine and undo the top four bellhousing bolts and the earth lead,also the main live that runs to the starter will need releasing from a bracket at the rear of the engine.once shes all undone,support the box and remove the engine simples.

You sir are clearely insane :yes:.I just dont see how it is,having done both ways id say box in is much less aggro.No fluids to drain,no exhaust to drop,no prop to deal with and no huge lump hanging off the end of your engine crane.And you have to split the box anyway if your changing the engine,and refitting the box on the floor aint that great either,in the cars not fantastic granted but i can do them on my own in the car whereas trying to lift and fit a box back onto an engine is a pain in my opinion on your own.

Having done many 300zx engine removals,not thousands but more than 30 id always LEAVE the box in.I know Jeff at Zedworld leaves them in also,taking the box out is needless,more mess and more work and makes none of the job any easier.Especially if your working on the floor.Anybody that says it is is clearly insane and needs sectioning forthwith :laugh:.

Im running nigh on 500 through the Autobahn one and boost is ok and not laggy so id say its ok for the money,that other is shocking.Pipes rust and the core aint up to much.

Where did you get that link from,its a bit long winded.Sounds like it was written by Haynes.There is no need whatsoever to remove the box when pulling an engine.AS long as the front crossmember is lowered the engine comes out fine.

what worries me more is.... why were you searching for cack like that Jan ??

They are not much dearer and should never need changing again.Anthonyd on here works for sfs and offers hoses at great prices.

That passenger side tension rod lock nut wasnt done up ,noticed it when i was underneath.could spin it with my fingers.I do like your boot spoiler its grown on me.I might nick it Lol

After that gearbox shat itself under your car bud it wont be rusting under there for a while.

Airlocks blow hoses,the air gets heated to really high temps and expands then blows the hose.Your a patient bloke i gotta say Ian,that must be driving you bonkers.

Why do you think bleeding will fix a slipping clutch ?

bin the engine mate,headgasket replacement on a cooked 20 year old engine is a recipie for disaster.It prolly has done untold damage,dont forget when it overheats the oil thins which can result in piston,ring and crank bearing failure and possible turbo problems.Get a good known engine its the best way.

if you can get it an SAE 30 is best but failing that a mineral oil will suffice.

Tyler will be the equivalent of Darren or Mark in years to come,its one of those names that a lot of people are using at the moment because they think it sounds "trendy" but in real life it wont be.Chelsea seemed trendy once but now i cant help think of track suits and large gold ear rings when i here it.Ollie is a classic name and timeless imho.Id go with that.

tt block,crank and rods are identical to an n/a,oil pumps were changed for tt models.Other components are different also like the piston jets.hth.

Block is identical,its what bolts to it and inside thats not.

agreed.Mytyres are cheap as.