General Discussions - 300ZX Related

Hi need some help in clacton Essex. When I drive my 91TT turbo In a straight line the rear snakes left or right when going over bumps or change of road surface, but is fine when cornering. Is it the hicas joints,fluid or pump. Would I be better with eliminating bar? Thanks bjorn

im a big fan of the safety aspect of run flats but not a fan of the teeth rattling ride they give . is anybody running these on their zed . my concern is when you take the suspension give away from the tyres is it likely to ware other components in the cars suspension . has anybody had any issues with this . cheers andy

Had the window down today and as i was braking i heard what sounded like the pads and shims moving as i braked? it stops fine and theirs plenty of meat on the pads,do they suffer with the pads slopping about in the cailper as i know some cars do? I plan to take the wheels off the weekend and pull them apart for my own peace of mind. any thoughts?

Hi guys, sorry to post such a closely related question to my weekend query. Both I and my mechanic friend assumed swapping the actuators would be any easy enough job. So it was, for the passenger side, but the driver's side appears to be impossible without removing the turbo/pulling the engine. Can anyone advise the 'easiest' (ha!) way to do this, preferably avoiding an engine pull? Dropping the cross member and raising the chassis perhaps?? I guess an engine pull wouldn't be the end of the world, I've deleted pretty much everything that isn't needed in the engine bay including aircon, standard solenoids, plenum water hoses, EGR, AIVs, PRVR, det sensor etc …

I don't have a change to check under the car now as I'm offshore. I'm thinking about replacing the Z1 DP and TP because of a lot of rasp and buying Alloy Toyz from CZP and was wondering if there would be easier to replace the DP with the gearbox on or off?

Any one got any links to alloy rads for z32 can dta still get these thanks,:cool3:

I was told that my car was tunned by abbey motor sport in surry a couple of years ago. so i gave them a ring and they were able to tell me that in 2004, they fitted a Greddy BSpec 2 boost controller (which is still there now) and that was all. they said that it was runnin 260BHP at the rear hubs. this sounds a little low to me. is the standard 276bhp at the fly or at the hubs?

guys, any ideas whats causing this, the car has stood for a year ive had missfire prbs all resolved now its firing on all 6, at start up a very loud clicking noise its constant after that also its now starting to backfire , it bangs then theres a sort of air sound do you think its reated or do i have 2 problems any help much appreciated ps many thanks to geordie liam for the the cable tie solution it worked a treat on the coilpacks

Any recommendations? One that knows their way round the Zed's fiddly trim bits, preferably. Ta.

Just looking at getting the most from what I've got at the mo.. I'm currently running Blitz induction, An upgraded ECU and Japspeed cat back system. I'm not sure if the boost has been tweaked as i don't have a boost gauge. With this in mind what's the optimum octane to run on? I always use 97 ron minimum and occaisionally 99 when its convenient. I can't really tell any difference between them. Certainly nothing like the difference in performance compared to running the Zed on a cool night, rather than a hot day.. Obviously there are plenty of ways to boost octane levels further with fuel additives, but I wondered if it would be worthwhile? If my car has bee…

Got my mint uk spec clocks today a must mod for any jap motor. Very pleased and also pleased with the advice given to me on servicing my brakes and the free bleeding pipe supplied to. Also seen Richards car looking nice and a very nice white zed with cystal rear lights which looked very good. For the price there a great update on the standard zed lights IMO Damo j:thumbup1:

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This is something different but well worth reading. It was written by our learned friend in Stoke and we think is of interest to any car or bike owner. Well…………! In The Beginning there was Carbon and Hydrogen. These got together in accordance with rules forged in the Big Bang (yes, really!) to make methane, one carbon atom with 4 hydrogens stuck on. A bit later, (only 4000 million years) other atoms started getting together and finally came up with Life, a self-reproducing chemical mix. The reproducing bit was quite fun, but after 600 million years even that gets boring. So, a more or less intelligent life-form invented The Car and the Motorcycle, th…

hi all . the zed has started idleing a little erratically . it seems to be hunting a little and after a while she cuts out . starts again straight away but if left idleing will cut out again . on the to do list are ; change fuel filter pcv valves . poss fuel damper ptu for a series 2 when i can get the sub harness is it possible that 1 or more of these could help with the problem . another problem that she has is hessitation on initial pull away but none whilst driving . any advice or pointers will be gladly recieved . cheers andy

hi there ,whats best intake air temperature (after intercoolers ) .?

Does anyone know of an easy way to bypass whatever stops the key from coming out unless box is in park. Sometimes mine does not release and can take me ages to get it to. Great idea when its working. F*****g frustrating when its not working. Always does it when I'm in a hurry to get out. Thanks guys. :thumbup1:

Hey all, just wondering possible causes for an irregular idle could be..? Most of the time it idles fine, but sometimes its at around 2k.. this isnt just when its cold either, I was in traffic, at some points the idle is 2k 2 minutes later its normal..? Is this anything due to the fact it has a viscus fan and the engine was hot? (never had a viscus before) I did have some issues a few days ago regarding some bucking and juddering when driving normally, but these stopped during the same journey, I have since cleaned the airfilter too, but in an attempt to take it off sheared one of the 4 bolts (the fixings are all horribly rusty in there), so its possible its recievi…

just noticed that others cannot post in my journal and that i cant post in some other peoples, is there a setting that i need to change or is that just the way it is?

In Battersea area 2 nights ago red zed swb Mid level spoiler L reg very nice JJ:tank:

Anyone remember seeign these? Its a short piece of loom that goes between the ECU plug and the ECU so if you are hacking the loom then you can hack into this. Trying to get hold of them as an alternative, neater method of wiring for the Emerald conversion. On Pete's I gutted a stock ECU and used that but would rather use the extension if possible.

Virtual pint to whoever can see what's wrong here:

Just a quickie, to say thanks to Jeff, Jamie and the boys at zedworld, for getting my pride and joy back to me, all running great, and lookin good...:gunsmilie: She's driving great, pulling well, boosting as per normal, but every now and then, at a standstill there's a few puffs of smoke from the back... I realise that this is more than likely just oil burning opff, or whatever, but I just thought I'd mention it... :sleeping: Other than that, I'm a very happy chappie, thanks again lads, and I'll see you for the service in a few weeks... :cool2:

can anyone tell me why a uk spec reads from -14 to +14 and a jap spec reads from -7 to +7 are there any differences with the standard boost . cheers guys andy

hi all the zed developed a strange misfire today dont think i missed it when i bought the car but anyway rear cylinder passenger side bank was missing i swapped coil packs with a working cylinder and misfire was still present i then removed the plug it felt tight in places when loosening it but looked ok nice grey tip etc i then swapped it with the plug from number 2 cylinder (so rear cylinder now has coil pack and plug from number 2) and it's now ok any thoughts what it could be? originally when i found the fault removing the connector from the rear cylinder coil pack made no difference to the engine running (i 'e missfire showing up)

:confused1:i had a weird idle which upon investigation reveled i had a misfire on the drivers side front clynder. ive cleaned the injectior connection, done the screwdriver test, and it was clicking, ohmed the injector which came back with 12.9 i believe this is acceptable? ive also checked that i have a spark swapping the coil packs made no differnce and i pulled the plug and grounded it to the plenum and i got a nice fat spark. the plug itself looked normal no blackness or chunks missing etc. ive cleaned the ptu connections. all im thinking now is taht it could be the injector connector is so badly corroded its past salvage? any advice greatly recived my mot is due this…