General Discussions - 300ZX Related

Does carmad still make bomex skirts for swb thanks taff

hi, my car is in the body shop having bodkit etc fitted and full respray - just got the new clear side light/indicators for the scarab, but now they show up the fogs - i was going to put the ducts in but would prefer the spot lights - is ther an upgrade/aftermarket set of fogs that fit that dont have the ribbing to match the new lights where could i get the small bulb holder for the lights to add the side lights to the unit regards dave

Just ripped the rear standard spoiler off my slicktop and have welded up holes 6 round ones on tailgate. 1 once the perpex panel is fitted can it be removed without damage 2how much have peolpe payed to prep and paint there tailgate mine is eh7 pearl yellow so going to be expensive 3 im i right in thinking the perpex panel fits into the 3 sqaure holes in the recess looks like there should be 4 holes 4 the panel with the brake light in is this led or can you change the bulbs as normal 5 do i need to buy any clips or are the part of the panel thanks TAFF

http://jsworks.org/2012/10/08/escalation-of-commitment/

Hi Thinking of replacing my 1992 UK 300ZX twin turbo's spark plugs; firstly, what sized spark plug wrench do I need - 14mm? Think I only have a 10mm one at the moment... Secondly, which plugs should I use? Looking around it seems NGK PFR6B-11 are recommended for a standard TT but NGK PFR6B-11B are better for a 'modified' TT. Mine has the 70+bhp EPROM upgrade and Apexi air filter, no other engine mods... so am I better off with the B? I see they're different lengths though... Cheers Ross

Hi all I have some hesitation/stumble issues with my TT and have been going through the checklist of known causes. I've just done the coolant temp sensor test at: http://www.300zx.net.nz/articles/MainLib/HowTos/heasitation/whencold.htm Supposedly the voltage of the temp sensor is supposed to start at 5V and gradually go down to 0V as it gets warmer. Here's my results: Cold start: 3.9V 4 mins later: 2.3V 6 mins: 1.9V 10 mins: 1.25V 16 mins: 1.24V 20 mins: 1.2V Note that the temperature outside today (East Midlands, UK) is about 8-10C. Now to me, that starts off a little low and doesn't come down enough - could this be the cause of my…

Hi, took the zed out for a run tonight and decided i would pull over on a quiet stretch of road and launch it from standstill ( haven't done it and got a 1/4 mile challange coming up against a mate ). Now apart from smoking my clutch, when i changed from 1st to 2nd it was popping and banging ( something it hasn't done before except on overrun ). Another thing i noticed when putting it back in the garage was the n/s exhaust didnt seem to have the same kinda constant pressure as the o/s ( if you know what i mean? ) it was kinda stuttering. Apart from that it seems to be fine, possibly just worrying about nothing but thought id check.

Sold it a few months back and wondered if the guy who bought her had joined yet????

so peeps.. what should the next stage be? apexi intake... check japspeed exhaust system.. check japspeed decats.. check 2x Bailey DV26 BOVs.. check HKS EVC 3.. check ECU chipped and mapped to 1 bar.. check nasty annoying rusty lumps removed and welded and sorted at the bodyshop... check fuel pump a good next step? so far i've managed to bring all that together including the purchase of the car for £2.1k and am on a budget. suggestions?

OK my Zed is now off the road and I intend on doing a lot of work on it over the winter months, plus fitting body kit then respraying First problem I have is with the sills returns which are both rotted through. One of the sills (off side) has also gone a little bit where it joins the sill return. Bizarrely the neaside sill is much more solid though it does ot seem to have been previously worked on and is just as old as the offside. The floor pan and 'inner sills' are pretty sound (there is a small-ish hole in the floor pan under the drivers seat but it has lots of solid metal around it so should patch up OK) Other than that the car seems pretty solid under…

As the title, been toying with the idea of changing my smashed up Gracer front end with a 99 spec. instead of repairing it yet again. I'm not a massive fan of the 99 spec front, but i've seen it look very nice with a lip on it here and there. So get some pics up and give me some inspiration....pretty please. :biggrin:

Managed to get a picture this time. I was on a course at neta training centre, noticed it when I drove past.

I haven't even managed to clock up 5 miles this year! :(

Hi guys just though I'd share this with the forum. A few months ago I had a slight vibration on my car when doing speeds below 50mph, I did get loads of advice and most guys said it might have been the prop. Changed it and I still had the same problem and trust me when i say i wasn't a happy man. Parked it up for a whole month because of this, it was doing my head in. Then last saturday took it to my local tyre shop to put some new tyres on and as soon as he took the first wheel off boom i spotted it. All my wheels were missing this plastic ring spacer thats sits between the rim and the hub. so bought four put them on and I was spot on, no more vibration she drives like …

My car has stock auto turbos, injectors and internals with 60,000 miles on it. A couple of months ago zedworld gave it a good looking over and got it running sweet also fitting an eprom and setting it to 13.5psi. The car does not have an EBC so I assume Jeff used boost jets??? After this I had the knock sensor fail and bypassed it, it only gets v power or equivalent. But! I just fitted a drift iridium boost gauge because the stock one was off the scale and in mm of mercury. It shows 17/18 psi. I fitted a Selin dual MAF and Hardpipes but it shouldn't be that high. How can I turn it down is it possible without buying a boost controller? (I will get one at some point) also…

Last weekend I went from standard wheels to a set of 18. As soon as i put them on it sounds like I have a washer machine in the boot. Am I right in saying its the wheel bearings?

As per title, does anyone know the thickness of the shim needed to allow the starter gear to properly mesh with the flywheel ring gear? Research suggests there is a shim plate available but does anyone know where from? Alternatively, I have seen it suggested to use some washers as spacers - but how many / how thick? Thanks!

Hey Guys, Been having this issue intermittently ever since i got the car. Its very strange as the missfire is always on the last right cylinder next to the firewall. Its completely random, most days its fine but every other week it comes back and then i get rough idle and popping sound from the exhaust. I am really stumped as to what this might be. Just had a service done so new spark plugs and oil change etc. I changed the coil packs over and its still the same so not that either. I hardly know much but from all the reading and advice from people, its coming back as either the fuel injectors or the PTU? Any help would be great as I am a complete newbie.

Tomorrow will see me starting on the tranformation of Bob's slicktop from a fast road car to a much more extreme track car. As with the original project to create the car i'm delighted to be involved in this next round of modifications. Bob brought the car(as a rolling shell) to me on Saturday and we spent some time discussing the work to be done. I also took the opportunity of making a start on seat mounts/position while i had Bob to trial fit.:smartass: Being securely located in your preferred driving position is an essential part of quick lap times. The brief for the revised car is to create a competent track/strip/sprint/hillclimb 300ZX. Many of the events …

I have just noticed some play on the left rear wheel, as I go over potholes and small bumps at speed.. and was wondering what that could be due to? it seems to be so minor from the outside. yet while driving I feel like it is going away to the left, and then comes back on direction as usual. anyone had similar issue? it is not a loose wheel. checked nuts etc. jacked the car up, and it seems to have some minor play. not sure of it's origins though. any ideas?

How usefull do you think these could be,seem a good idea on our cars http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TURBO-INTERCOOLER-AIR-INTAKE-TEMPERATURE-GAUGE-i-Drive-Turbo-Meter-/120992948313?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3A300+ZX&hash=item1c2bbde059

for popping around this afternoon and giving some advice while we were fitting my HKS EVC 3 :) you'll be pleased to here she is boosting happily at 14.5psi, ecu is mapped for the job, and it loves to break traction all the time now :taz:

Here goes: I have flushed the radiator, cheked the thermostat. I used grey silicone gasket when putting back the thermostat housing but still managed to get a small leak. So the quiestion : - Is there a gasket that is supposed to be used?