General Discussions - 300ZX Related

Right, I need advice here please! I currently have a 1991 LWB import, twin turbo, converted to manual. I'm estimating the work I want doing to it is going to be around £2.5k - £3k. Aside from a power steering leak at the back end once, she's never let me down. Tomfromthenorth's been in it and we both agree the engine's been tinkered with a little bit as she has a nice healthy pull on her. I always fancied the SWB before I bought my current Zed. So my quandary is this: should I plough some money into my 2+2 or invest in a shortie...? I honestly can't decide!!! :cursing:

Hi all just wondering if anyone knows where I can get lower strut braces front and rear and if anyone has any on there z if they noticed any improvement did they help torque steer ect ? And any difficulty fitting have a n/a rear end so the braces would have to fit that cheers

here is a vid as some of you know the car has been of the road for 8 months with the battery disconnected in that time the engine had not been run what so ever I just finished a auto to manual swap started the car for the first time and is smoking I don't know if it need a good run now or something has gone wrong while its been no running the car didn't smoke atall before any ideas whats going one thanks just click on the pic and the vid will play

As anyone got the link to speedo fix as i cant find it.and as you can see from the pics i was under the inpression that there was a wire on the circit board that need to be sratched away before fitting these convertors.heres what going on.

now im planning on doing some work on my z over the winter, im going to be rebuilding the heads with new seals etc and was wondering on valve seat work? if the valves are all ok can i get the valve seats recut (3 angle jobbie?) and use the original valves? will they lap into the newly cut valve seats ok? also while im at it i am ordering some weisco piston rings for my 87.5 mm wisco pistons. what is the easiest DIY way of gapping them so i get the faces really square without spending out on a special grinder which i would only use on one engine build? main bearings and rod bearings. would acl race series standard (depending on condition of crank …

I'd just like to say that changing the front rack bushes is a really pain in the arse!:mad: It took just a couple of hours to replace the front & rear drop links & also the front ARB bushes. It took a whole lot longer to replace the rack bushes, or should I say the rack bush. The passenger side takes 15minutes to replace, the drivers side is the problem. Very awkward, getting the old bush out was a PITA, fitting the new one was a PITA, getting the bracket back on was a PITA!:cursing: The only tip I have is to leave the passenger side unbolted as it allows the rack a small amount of movement which helps only a little. Ah well, another couple of jobs …

I posted a while ago about a swb manual TT a while ago in my town which has been off the road for a few years..... UK spec in yellow was wondering if anyone knew what sort of price it would be worth? From my understanding it has an engine issue which I don't know what that is but was thinking for parts really.

Hi all, For those I know and others that have followed my original build of Ted for 7years will know that after the full restoration all the blood, sweat, money and tears going in to the car failed at the last stages when I went to get the car mapped for the first time. I made the hard decision to not carry on, it wasnt an easy decision to make but my responsibilities have changed over the year's with a little one running around and a wedding on its way. The disappointment of picking the car up mainly in boxes was to much so i just left most of all the parts in boxes in my garage and shed until today where i thought it's time to move on and decide what to kee…

firstly i have 17 inch wheels on car and at the moment have 235 45 17 on front and have 255 40 17 on the rear, thou to me it dont look right i was thinking of 235 40 17 on the front but say 265 or 275 35 17 on the rear. wheels are 9.5 j on the front and 20j on the rear. the other issue i have well in the boot was a tiny thin spare wheel , well if i have a punture its not going to be any use to me is it, so im going to need a five spoke cheap 17inch wheel to fit in there, any ideas. any other car makes that i can use as a spare. oh and any good web sites or recomendations i use to use oponoe but not much cop for the 17 inch wheels , cheers

Hi can anyone tell me if this is meant to be connected to something? Looked around but can't find where it goes drivers side next to brake fluid pot

I need a center cap for one of my wheels, but there's no brand name on the inside, theres markings on the rear of each spoke, the offset and width marking i understand, but here's the others... They are made in japan a35s ej via 690 kg There is another 4 letter word which doesn't make any sense, it must be japanese letters. Sorry this is a photo i have in my pc, i haven't got a close up of the wheel. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

hi all after searching around for some 550cc injectors i came across these on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A46-00-6X-YELLOW-INJECTOR-INJECTORS-JECS-OEM-555cc-NISMO-SUBARU-NISSAN-SR20DET-/151417371814?ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123 after talking to the seller he confirmed these would not fit my car but however he could offer me ones that would fit my car remanufactured in japan again and jecs injectors and advised me they would only be around 530cc as they would be refurbs the cost 160 delivered or 190 delivered with flow chart obviously that seems quite cheap so just wanting peoples opinions on this thanks in advance

Hi not sure if any one can help but having a bit of an issue with my 1990 NA automatic. Whilst in drive and either moving in very slow traffic or when slowing down to stop at a red light for example the engine begins to start hunting between around 700 and a 1000rpm. Once at standstill the idle is fine. Have changed all vacuum pipes and cleaned idle control valve. Any ideas to try would be very appreciated.

Hi all, Put car through MOT today and ony failed on rear fogs not working , and hand brake efficiency. I haven't looked yet but is there a fuse for rear fogs? the front work, so was wondering if its a separate fuse? also I noticed that with the main lights off, if I press the fog button the front light up and so do the back???? so with the lights on and I turn the fogs on the rear doesn't make any change as in brighter they just look like normal back lights. ............... any ideas? # Thanks in advance

Following a thread that been going on regarding engine sensors and stuff I decided to check mine. I normally use datascan but also have conzult (free one), ECU Talk etc. anyway I was messing with the AAC trying to get it to 15 but struggling a little. For some reason I decided to have a look at in using the other software and I'm getting different reading in datascan to conzult. Anyone got any ideas why and more importantly which is right? Datascan showed 13 then 14 when I went back to it and the others showed 17. The idle is around 800 to 850 so I'm guessing the 17 reading is probably accurate as bringing it Down to 15 would probably bring the idle down…

Recently the little yellow plastic component inside the door lock broke so I bought a metal replacement and changed it. Unfortunately for me, while I changed it something else broke! It's the rod that connects to the part I just replaced but something at the other end has broken. I'm not entirely sure what's broke or what I need to replace so see the image below and any advice would be massively appreciated! Thanks, Daniel.

Could I have sone technical input on removing the tender springs and what spring rate to run. The tender spring at the rear takes up about 25-30mm, so at max drop the car is just kissing the arch visually, I would like to be lower but the tender is holding that back. The spring rates are from a skyline and I couldn't guess what they are, also the front springs need replacement to be compatible, so it makes sense to replace all four, so what would be a good suggested spring rate and front rear ratio for a car which is predominantly a road car but will see light track use? I already have stillen ARBs and have tyre sizes of 225/40/r18 and 265/35/r18 at the rear, I'm not look…

Saw this on the US site, thought some of you guys would appreciate it, 284hp out of a vg30de.

How much for professional polish for Z ? Thanks

Hi, can anyone help to try and diagnose this noise. I appreciate there will be some guessing, but maybe someone has had this and can say with more confidence? This rattle only occurs at around 1200RPM, by 1500RPM its gone. It only happens under load in any gear, for example turning on to a side street leaving the car in 3rd and then applying some gas. As it passes thru this rev range it rattles like this. The video shows car on stands in 4th gear using handbrake to labour engine at 1200rpm I suspect propshaft (one piece item) or a gearbox issue? It is not heat shields or cats. It doesn't make the noise during over run, in neutral or any other scenario. Any o…

how much for one of these and are they hard to fit. cheers

As title. Have small bit of rust coming out from unde the trim, so just want to remove the trim to get it repaired. Seems to be joined to the rest of the window trim though. Is it possible to remove without taking off the whole lot?

Linky! Is it just me, or is this a seriously beautiful looking example...?! :drool::ohmy:

Couple of months ago my brake lights stayed on! The problem was the green brake pedal stopper had disintegrated so not pressing on switch. This was fixed, I ordered one from America $3.2! Shipping was $42.00! Now I need one for my cruise control because this has disintegrated too! Anyone found a cheaper alternative? What can be the best? I don't want to wear out the plastic switch.

Right both my zed's have them, admittedly they are different brands but I'm slightly confused... Looking into why the swb take a few turns to start, and noticed that with the ignition on there is no reading on the afpr gauge? But on the na there is, and it take a fair few minutes to set back to 0 after the ignition goes off... On trying to start the swb there was a reading after I got it started, but it went very quickly after I set it off. Which is normal? As I'm thinking the swb may have a leak somewhere although can't see or hear anything obvious...