QLDZDR

I am looking for the answer to this. I was hoping to use the windscreen scuttle drain exit hose location under the car (or wherever it is) and push a flexible wire up from below and see it come up through the windscreen scuttle. I believe mine is blocked and this has caused flooding in the passenger foot carpet area and damp behind the ECU

Might be an idea to hook up a battery charger to these cars while working on them with accessories switched on?

Can they weld something equivalent to a spacer on the front wheels and rebore and balance them so you don't need longer studs?

I'm in Australia

Waterpump bearing, there is a weep hole that leaks a little bit when it is time to replace the water pump. I recently found out my 37,000 km water pump has failed.

order up some non-bolt-on hub-centric spacers. I'll call the wheel supplier though, they may be kind enough to help out:wink: Cheers folks:clover: Why not order some bolt-on HUB centric spacers. Much safer. I had 25mm bolton hub centric spacers for my stock 16"Zed wheels. No problems and the stock wheels looked flush. Just go with the thinnest bolt on hub centric, probably 10mm.

I had that symptom on another car about 15 years ago. I decided to get a replacement engine thst had already been refreshed. While the mechanic was sourcing an engine he suggested putting a chemical in the coolant and another in the oil. It worked. I did eventually get the engine swapped out, but the old engine eas running really well with that chemical in ot. I later found out that some performance car manufacturers put that stuff in their cars forcthe running in period when new. If you can find something like that and you are putting a different engine in anyway then why not give it a go.

Too bad the diagnostic isn't running for you. You can get a couple of dressmaker pins and push them into the back of the TPS plug, follow the wire, you want to make contact with the internal crimp or back of the contacts Then use a multimeter/volts and adjust the TPS voltage while the engine is in PARK / idle. I have found that lower value allows changes a bit easier.

Yes 2018 hasn't been great for my Zed. She has been in the driveway since May. But if any of you watched the televised Sydney New Year's Eve fireworks, then you'll know that they announced it was Happy New Year 2018 (again)

Did you say the guy abandoned the test and didn't charge you? So fingers crossed that the rest of the car passes (after the nedd/no need cats issue is sorted). I have been told that the Aussie spec Z32 is like the UK spec. Seems there is a difference because we have always had cats as a standard feature.

Back when I was a member on the Aussie forum there eas one guy in Western Australia who suggested using a clock internal found on ebay, which he provided a 3D prjnted insert to adapt the PCB to the internal of the original Nissan clo v k shell.

If my Zed was driveable and reliable I might get an Android based car stereo with a double height screen, I could bluetooth connect my trackelectronics BTconsult and switch between NDS1 gauges, DVR and GPS..... and music . If you can, do it. These things usually have an option to mirror your apple iPhone screen

Get the NDS1 software for Android. Not expensive. Nissan Data Scan http://www.nissandatascan.com The Nissan DataScan I is intended for Nissan cars build between years 1989 and 2000.

This works. Then use diagnostic app via your android tablet (or android based media stereo ) http://www.trackelectronics.com.au/diagnostics

I was hoping for a 'longest distance member' award :clap:

I can read it OK, downunder :angel:

I have used a sponge with cleaner and did what everyone does to clean any dust, but no dirt on the sponge so it was already clean.

I thought the genuine Nissans was known to be a problem. Also expensive. But OK,;I'll look into that

So what does everyone do about the stock oil pressure sensor failing.

In Australia I was unlucky enough to be fined for HID, ouch that hurt the wallet. Put the halogens back in and could not bear it. Bought some Jap halogens (a bit better) but then put LED in and I think brighter and reasonable. The led being on the top and bottom of the PCB does mean tjere is a line of NO-light which is unfortunate. I modified the little bites in the base so I could rotate the bulb slightly in the socket and this angles both of the "NO-light" areas to overlap between right and left head lights. The result has been afjusted to put more light toward the centre and passenger side of the road. After I was doing this I read about these oldish BMW LED. Looks like they would shoot all the light forward,if modded into the main beam no 300zx reflector would be used, but that would not fit in the bulb socket on low beam. LED light apprars to be more directional so we should find one that shoots light forward and through the low beam lens, not reflect sideways via the old dull reflectors.

I purchased a Tridon oil pressure sensor (Australia) the seller on ebay gave a 100% fitment guarantee. I bought the part and it didn't fit. It didn't even look like it would fit. There was only one electrical contact (should be two) I contacted them immediately because I had just booked a mechanic for a list of jobs on my Zed. After several days they are suggesting this https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/fuelmiser-oil-pressure-switch-cps141

It did end up being longer than the average read. I could summarize and say, In seven years I have learnt not to touch anything on the Zed if I don't have the correct tools and parts and also have the ability to fix what I might break. Have a spare vehicle to use during long periods of parking the Zed while I wait for the right mechanic.

Hi there, So my thinking is that the Australian delivered Nissan 300ZX ( NoTurbo) is not that different from the UK version. We both sit in the original Jap side of the car... ☺ I have owned my Zed for several years but it has long periods of time being parked due to unforseen issues that make her unpleasant to drive. She felt great when drove her out of the used car lot and after joining a forum and being advised to check and replace the parts on the 200,000 km list, I bought a kit and went to a local mechanic who told me "we have worked on a few of these before" so I gave them the kit and the upgraded Gates blue racing belt. Got the car back and she runs like a dog. Went back to the same workshop and find out that the guy with the experience isn't there and a different mechanic finished off the work on my car. I tried to get it checked again but just paid money for nothing. There was a smell like burning plastic and after noticing the fuel consumption had become really bad, I investigated to find a fuel hose clamp had been moved and tightened in a way that split the hose. I could not find anything else using my nose, so I went back to the same workshop. They told me the accessory belts need replacing, so I guessed that the smell was slipping, I tightened everthing up beyond what I believed was necessary and hoped for the best. One day a forum member noticed on a diagnostic screen shot that my TPS was set too low. Adjusting that improved the driveability to something better and I was able to drive her daily, but still knew something was worse than before she had the 200,000 km kit. Checking the kit parts I found out they didn't send the hydraulic tensioner. I have only added about 40,000 kms (not even that) and forgot about the tensioner because I don't drive her much. The annoying vibration and auto gear change and sloppy front end puts me off. So I bought a new (in box) TPS, but the seller switched it out for a 20 year old one. I bought a front suspension strut brace for the engine bay, but it didn't fit. I wasted a bit of money on things that didn't make a difference. Also some of them cost me a fine, like HID headlights and LED blinkers. The rear main transmission to engine seal started leaking oil and some worked its way to the hot exhaust, so smoke everywhere. A mechanic replaced that and fitted a lower suspension brace (from an Aussie manufacturer) but when I picked up the car, he said it has to come off again because the tension radius arm bush is split and leaking. Well that sounded serious. She spent months off the road because I couldn't remove one tension arm bolt. It was seized up in that lower brace and the loose tension arm bush made her horrible to drive. Brace had to be removed and bolt was damaged, so I got a new bolt and new brace fitted. Back on the road at last. It was just dumb luck that the bolt seized up in that brace, the mechanic is too strong and didn't notice it was too tight or the bolt had an aluminum shaving or burr on the thread. Now I seem to notice the vibration at revs even more. I got in there with endoscope cameras and found a chunk was broken on the harmonic balancer. I have recently found out that can happen when removing it using the wrong tools. The only time that came off was when the timing belt and waterpump kit went on. Went to a different mechanic who owns a Zed. He had a new in box harmonic balancer. All set to put it on, but it was incorrectly labeled and turns out it is for the Turbo model. He gets me a good second hand part. While he is there he asks if I want to put the 200,000 km kit on. I replied that it was only 40K old so no. After he puts it all back together he tells me that the previous mechanic put a spacer on the wrong side of something and that caused the timing belt to rub on something when it was new. The hydraulic tensioner wasn't replaced and an installation screw was still in there but should have beed removed. He sorted that out. He told me to change my radiator fan because the plastic is split. I now realise that I can only take this car to a mechanic who knows his Zeds. I can't risk letting someone guess on my car. I felt that the vibrations are a bit different on the drive home. I did change the plastic fan and then noticed a big amount of play and now that I disturbed some grit around that bearing surface in the water pump I have a leak and a wobble from the radiator fan. It took a chunk out of my fan cowling. I organised some time in our garage to work on replacing the water pump myself, but I hit a snag. The hex bolt in the thermostat is too tight. The hex key slipped and I suspect the inner surface is damaged. I drove to a different mechanic and he had a wuick look had a quick feel and said he would have to use an easy-out and I should get a replacement hex bolt before anything is started. Ciuld be a big job. He sounds scared and also told me ge didn't want to work on it, he has other easier jobs waiting. I have found this is a common attitude of mechanics when they see a Zed drive in. So I will wait for a mechanic and get the hydraulic tensioner put in this time. So far the car has been waiting since May 2018.