Joely P

Nice work, looking good. You can’t go wrong with the Eagle F1s great tyres.

Welcome to the club dude. Sounds like a decent purchase, look forward to seeing it.

Richard, I am getting tired of the constant reminder of the rules...

I do like these kind of jobs, very rewarding and if your insulation was not up to scratch, you’ll have a noticeable reduction in road noise coming from the back with that insulation! I had a real focus on driving down the road noise from the back, what you’re doing is one of the most effective noise isolators in the back end, but you’ll also benefit from an extra layer of this on the inside of the plastic trim pieces around the boot and wheel arch’s (beef up the OE insulation with the vinyl backing) to further hammer down that frequency. Combine it with some strategically placed damping mat around the boot area and you get a nice refined “silence”; in relative Z terms!

This is what the Z’s nose looked like after learning that a different red one had been featured...

What if they were Russell Hobbs toasters, they’re pretty decent?

Welcome to the club Rob, look forward to seeing the pics [emoji41]

Looks like a nice bit of kit that, nice choice Ian. [emoji106]

I assume you still have the OE air box fitted Mike? This guide I just found for the panel filters seems to just about cover it. You would just need to remove the 4 bolts that hold the MAF onto the box lid once removed to replace it.

And calls himself a bandit! [emoji38]

Sorely missed, RIP Mandy.

That is a shame. I will admit, for me the idea of the parade lap was the primary USP for this event.

If you do replace it and you want to sell your old one, let me know as I might be interested [emoji106]

Thanks all [emoji41]

[emoji1787]

Why not polish up your Mongoose system Richard?

Microfibre pads used on a Dual Action polisher (as apposed to the usual foam construction). Which has also just brought to my attention that the machine Richard is looking at is not a dual action polisher, but a rotary polisher, doh!

I’ve not tried any cordless polishers but I can see the appeal. If it’s anything like my Dyson V8 cordless vacuum though, they will be an expensive disappointment! The batteries simply don’t last long enough when new, and the life cycle just gets shorter and shorter with use. No doubt they would be heavy to work with and so would be generally harder work (detailing can be very laborious anyway)! Depending on what state your paint is at, polishing can take several hours, even with just a quick wisp over, the last thing you want is to be out of batteries and have to retire early for the day. You then have to wash your pad(s) which might not then be dry and ready for later or the next day when recharged, meaning you’d probably have to stock more pads. I think they have their place, for a quick touch up of a specific area, but I can’t see that they’re yet suitable for a full polishing session! Happy to be proved wrong as I’ve never tried one, if power to your garage is a problem then it may well be a perfectly acceptable solution, I would just say have several batteries in your collection and a production line of chargers!

I would recommend the DAS-6 PRO from CYC using the discount code “DAS6GROUPBUY” making it £99.95 delivered. https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/das-6-pro-dual-action-polisher The kit comes with a 5” and a 6” backing plate, most of my pads are for the 5” plate as I’ve found they’re the best all rounder without having to keep switching. You will need a 3” or 3.5” backing plate to go with the kit as there are some areas that are just not suitable for a big pad. I switch between a 5” and a 3.5”. Polish and pads are quite subjective, they’re all going to achieve pretty much the same result and depending on your technique, will have different levels of effort and time to get to the result. I’ve found that the Scholl concepts or Menerna polishes are far superior to work with over the Meguiars pro range. Each brand has its own variety of different cut levels and combos, how you pair these up will depend on the type of paint you have (aftermarket paint jobs are notoriously soft in comparison to a hard OEM finish), and also your technique. In my experience, I’ve found the Scholl S20+ Black to be an absolutely awesome all rounder as you can use it to cut out defects and polish to a decent finish in one stage as it breaks down to a finer cut as it flashes. It also works harder than the like of Megs 105/205 and is far easier to buff off; economy of effort! For finer finishing, if required, the Scholl S40 is very good, as is the Menzerna 3800. These will generally need experimentation as to the finish you get with the pad you use and your technique. Cheap polishing pads are a false economy, they break down early and disintegrate when worked hard so avoid all of your unbranded generic pads. I’ve had success with the Lake Country CCS range and the Scholl Spider pads. I had issues with early Chemical Guys Hexlogic but the newer Quantum range seem to have fixed those issues. You should do fine with any of the decent brands though, technique is going to play the biggest part in the results. Nick Johnson has been praising the microfibre pads for the DA lately so they may be worth a try, it’s not something I’ve dabbled with yet as I already have far too many! Make sure you buy some decent buffing towels and separate any cloths that are now paint safe, or not! When washing your towels, don’t wash your super plush buffers with your wash mitts and dirty items as you’ll just induce problems! I can highly recommend the Eagle Edgeless towels from the rag company as they’re simply the best on the market! https://www.ragmasteruk.co.uk/16-x-16-eagle-edgeless-500-microfiber-towel/ The 500 is your best bet to cover all bases and make sure you get the 16x16 size towels as the 16x24 or any rectangular size towel are a pain to work with! Always fold your towels in half and in half again giving you 8 sides to work with. Before you start polishing, you must fully decontaminate the paint otherwise you can just pick up tar or fallout spots and drag them around with the polisher! You can use these fallout remover sprays like IronX and Autosmart Tardis (best products on the market for those jobs) but you will also need to clay the paint before you start. I use the blue 3M low tack masking tape from CYC to mask rubber trims as you can easily damage those (it can be time consuming but makes the actual polish stage so much quicker and easier without distraction!). Once you’ve finished polishing, give the car a good wipe down, I tend to use an Eagle 350 and Gyeon Q2 Prep as my favoured products and then you’re ready to apply whatever LSP(s) to protect all of your hard work.

Joel (CM77)

Apologies, I didn’t read back the rest of the thread, I thought it was a new thread for some reason!

Is the salvage retention just stating that they offer it, or is it a zero cost salvage retention? I think most companies offer salvage retention these days on a policy like this but not many are zero cost.

Don’t bother with them cheap sensors Mike, get some decent Bosch ones. The OEM sensors were made by Bosch and although its not an identical part, the 13091 is an equivalent spec without the high price and is the alternative sold by the major vendors in the US. You can get them from CZP, Z1 or eBay etc but it’s likely the eBay sellers are also US based anyway. If you have a word with Jimmer, he may be able to sort you out too. https://conceptzperformance.com/bosch-13091-oxygen-o2-sensor-nissan-300zx-90-96-z32_p_4241.php Edit: they’re also plug and play so they use the correct plug, with the correct length of wire and the little harness clip to secure them! [emoji41]

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