Joely P

Yes I think you're right. Up until early 2007; the latest pics I have in my collection is from February 2007 at a Hatchgate meet. Karl300zx was his username I think, a very lively and funny chap! Seen in the first pic (Eileen in the background!): Here's another pic from early '06 showing the interior and different wheels: I seem to recall the car was "vandalised and burnt out" in a layby after waiting 2 weeks for Paul@SWZ to recover it and redo the engine build for the umteenth time after several failed attempts of a "big power build". I guess he should've went to ztech!

If they're a trustworthy reputable company, then stick with them if they're local.

I'm not a welder but I am in and around quality welding on a daily basis and have a real appreciation for the art. I have had a go at various forms of it but they always looked rather 'abstract'! I saw these sexy welding pics on Facebook and thought I'd share:

Are we sure it's the same car? The ad states 2 owners with the last being a lady owner of 18 years? I forget the details of the KGF one, I guess it could have just been passed around various different traders.

If I were you Joel (oh, I am Joel!).. I would take a day or 2 off, set off nice and early for a road trip down to Noel (Noz) to setup this engine properly, or at least to advise you with some guidance of what steps need to be taken in order to prevent imminent multiple 4 figure sums being chewed up by your new acquisition!

Hello and welcome, there are some handy buying guides on here but don't be afraid to ask questions as there are lots of friendly people ready to help :)

Mind you, once you've got 4 or maybe even 6 of those and added the cost of welding the flanges on, it'll be a relatively expensive upgrade for a "nice to have" type mod!

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=151160465922

In fact, it probably makes more sense to do the boost leak check first!

It could be a number of possible issues. As you've only just purchased the car, I would start with a good service, plug it in and make sure there are no current faults and that the idle setup is correct. Then carry out a boost leak test to ensure the labyrinth of 25 year of vacuum/boost pipework are nicely air tight.

It's a worthwhile tool to invest in. Easy to use for simple fault finding like this and you can get them for less than £3 on eBay etc. It's also handy to have a test lamp to accompany a multimeter in some cases. In this case, is it really quite critical start to your troubleshooting by isolating whether you have a power supply to the connector or not.

Those V bands [emoji7] I'm surprised more exhaust systems don't use them.

So what you're saying is, even if we have a small one, we can still make a big impression?

Have you checked for 12v at the connector to the cluster?

Why do you make your turn signals yellow and not orange?

Have you got the front wheels to match the rear? Looks like you have a set of R33 GTR Skyline Brembos fitted too.

I always find a good test of the clutch is to accelerate from 20mph in 5th gear, if the rpm goes up faster than the mph then your clutch is slipping.

[smartassmode] I guess you're referring to the Rolls Royce Spey engine fitted to the BAC 1-11? What an amazing sound! Unless you mean a Rolls Royce RB211 high bypass engine which aren't quite so dramatic and horrifically noisy! [/smartassmode]

Oh boy, how your mind works!!

Pics ffs?

You have time; knock a hole in the front of the house and park it in the lounge. That way you can split your time between the Z and forza without losing time when switching between the two.