ChrisC

NEARLY to most people would mean less than double (460) so how do you get 500? LOL The mods for a N/A cost just as much as a TT and you get far less power for your money. How much do Stillen headers cost? Not cheap I would think and I doubt they give much power increase. You could probably get a TT chipped and a boost controller for the same money. If you are going to say a stock TT doesn't actually have 280 - 300bhp (import?) then you can also say a stock N/A probably doesn't have 230bhp either! The difference is still the same. A TT has everything the N/A has but with more power, better brakes, HICAS etc so it can only be an upgrade in every way. Shame to change though if you have a clean car that is running well.

LOL You should get an auto ;) Until next years engine mods then I will need a manual...

No I get it free for having a pimp mobeeeeeeeeeeel. LOL :D

LMFAO nutter! :D

LOL it was a fanny magnet then so just wait for the birds to fall in through my windows at traffic lights now it's kitted :D :D :D

Errr no! N/A's are ABOUT 230bhp are they not, so NEARLY double ie ABOUT 400bhp not 500 as you just made up! And did I say that the performance figures would be halved? No. Why would anyone think they would be? Tit! Believe me the difference between a stock TT and one that's running a bar of boost is MASSIVE so a N/A would stand no chance up against one and it's pretty easy to find a TT with zorst and intake already sorted. Doesn't cost mega bucks to do the rest either.

LOL that didn't last long. Nice to meet you again, I'll give you a call about that flamer kit ;) Chris.

It didn't finish early, Dark Warrior was saying the other meet he went to finished early I think. I had a top day with the usual nutters. Nice to meet Ajay and Emero but I hear they had a nasty time on the way home. Good luck with the repairs :( There were some nice cars there and quite a few Z's. Look forward to seeing lots of pics. My Z made it to it's first meet in about 18 months LOL

If you want more power then think of the comparison between a N/A and a modded TT. There's not really much you can do to your N/A to get a lot more power. A TT with chip, boost upgrade, decat exhaust and intake will have nearly double the power of your N/A Now THAT is a big difference in performance!

You can get the hub kit from http://www.takakaira.com in Japan I think it works out at about £80 It is a special one for the HICAS so don't try to use a standard one from most shops. You can then mount a Momo or the other common makes onto this. If you want to keep the cruise buttons you can extend the wires from the steering column and mount the button panel from the old wheel onto the dash or centre console somewhere.

Peter at PPS knows a few people and there are going to be some guys at the GPS open day taking a few pics. Word has got about but I've not approached anybody myself.

If you remove them they don't need pre-heating or after heating. What is the MASS of the cats? :D

My 8.5 x 18 fronts have 235/35/18's and the rear 10 x 18's have 285/30/18's. The spacers are not cheap at about £260 but the quality is superb. Macca organised mine and they are a lot cheaper than other places are doing them. They bolt onto the hub and have another set of bolts pressed through them from the other side so it is like extending the hub out. If you used normal style spacers you would need huge long bolts and they would snap off. I know a few people here have paid over £500 for their spacers! You need to get the biggest offset wheel you can get to keep the size of the spacer to a minimum then mount the wheel on the car with the wide arches fitted. Measure from the wheel to the edge of the arch to find the spacer width to have made. I was lucky that I ordered the same wheels as Iain so just had the spacers made the same as his but it depends on what offset is available in your style of wheel.

Convert the clock?!? What about the gearbox? It only works on autos doesn't it?... or am I missing something?

I got a message from Timmy saying he won't be able to go :(

LMAO I'll have to learn not to go out all dressed up in future ;)

I would guess you would be after 245/30/19's at the front and something like 325/30/19's at the rear although the rears should be a 25 profile to maintain the correct size I think. Find out the price you will pay for those rears - probably about £300 each for budget jobbies or something silly! The wheel offset needs to be as big as you can get to keep the spacer as small as possible. My 285/18's have a spacer about an inch and a half thick so the extra half inch of wheel each side won't be a problem. Give Johnny a call at GPS. He has 19's on his wide arch Z.

I went for a drive in it before it went down for it's MOT and I have never seen so many people stand and stare as I drove past. It's loud and mean as *uck looking and even in the dark I was getting kids jumping out into the road and shouting WOWWWWW as I went by LOL It always turned heads before but it's something else now. Can't wait to park it next to the big Ferrari that's going to GPS and see which gets the most looks LMAO! :D I have had a permanent grin on my face for the last 2 days :D It's just a shame I now have to pay for it right before Christmas. Oh well, the Mrs will just have to go without! ;) LOL There's a few magazines interested in doing a feature on it too so can't be bad.

Yeah I'll have my OWN Z to drive at last. I've been without my Z so long and it looks so different that it feels like i'm buying a new car from PPS! LOL

As a few of you will know my Z has just been kitted and was due to leave PPS until we found it wouldn't start! All had been OK until last week when all the interior and gadgets had been wired in and then it wouldn't fire. It had run fine on many occasions over the last few months it's been in. The engine was turning over but not firing. Tried another PTU but still the same. Checked for a spark at the plugs and was OK. We could hear the fuel pump working and pressure was OK. What could it be if there was fuel and a spark?!?! Thought it must be something to do with the turbo timer or Blitz power meter that had just been fitted so removed those. Still no luck. By this time we were getting desperate and I was thinking I might have to call out an auto electrician to trace for a break in a wire or my alarm/immobiliser. As a last resort I decided to disconnect my Traction Control unit. It worked! The traction control is fitted between the ECU and the injectors and after further investigation found the earth lead had come loose so it was effectively dissabled but somehow the light on the control switch was on!? TC not working so stopped the injectors firing! Doh! Anyway what a relief! I'll make it to the Grasshopper meet on sunday now :D Chris.

I see why there's no pay rise ;)

or £130 EACH for new bars with the bushes from Nissan :eek:

LMFAO I've uploaded a few pics of your Z to the same site as mine Vijay. It's had a bit of a rubdown and is looking a bit worse than it did when it went in :'( I'm sure it will be looking great again once the pearl goes on :D

If that's what Roy thinks then she's gotta go! I've packed her bags and have put on some heavy boots for when she gets home tonight :D LOL

You can tell which is which by the location of the filler flap. On 2+2's it's behind the rear wheel, on 2+0's it's in front of the wheel under the window. The one in the pic you posted is a 2+2