Alic

Depends. If you are buy a universal one you will need an adapter that bolts onto the maf. That's why people buy the apexi as it bolts on.

As Si said crank it for a few seconds to reduce pressure and have a rag over it when you pull it off, you don't want fuel in your eyes trust me.

He replaced the OEM ones with adjustable cam gears which i would assume do not have vvt solenoid on them.

They did the 36 second run a week after the Chiron's on ww2 concrete which was bad, so they came back and beat it on smooth tarmac. They've been around though. I remember the ccx being unruley when it came out.

It's not 4 seconds faster than the chrion, it's about 9 seconds. 33vs42 seconds. The Chiron is simply too heavy to compete.

Can I be one of those please :pinch:

Haha yes please!

Yes it is an interference engine. I.e. if it breaks your engine is kaput (valves and pistons will destroy each other). I wouldn't feel confident asking him to do my cambelt to be honest!

Surprised you haven't mentioned the rear lights... It should have been sold at £9.8k, I think that's a very generous price. It's not an outstanding oem example, and the modifications don't add very much.

I've seen Sy around on Facebook quite a bit, indeed he put it up for sale there today, but I'm not sure of his forum name.

https://www.gumtree.com/p/nissan/300zx-non-turbo-auto-78thousand-miles-2-2/1272950688 It is a club car, can't put my finger on who owns it but looks in good nick.

And the spacer plate (TT fly in na box). I used 3mm ally, what thickness to space out did you usually use with a TT fly in na box? And sorry slightly off topic

So I found out. Should I use a helicoil, or oversize the bolt. What would you suggest?

If you put a pop filter on, keep the splash guard to stop water getting in it. Personally I couldn't go airbox myself as they are very restrictive, and I like chucking away lengths of unnecessary plastic pipe

Noted. The step to injectors will be in a while however. I have enough on my plate at the moment, first priority is fixing and cleaning up the car, making it run perfectly/reliably and much easier to work on than it was stock.

Agreed as you also said in the other thread. Mine is already done so I forgot to put that in my list.

Following from your previous thread (https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?187923-Wanting-to-hit-400-450bhp), For my route this is what i'm doing: Intake Exhaust Boost controller 555cc+ injectors Massive smic's ECU selin dual intake You do not really need turbos or fuelpump (it's capable of a lot more than 450hp).

After unplugging he sensor, I would also unplug the battery for a few hours to reset the ECU.

Disconnected it runs directly from the fuel map without 'correcting'. Many people unplug them you should be fine.

Sounds like you'll need something like this :biggrin: Its great to have a big workshop :)

Even if it did work, it's not fixing the problem that the car is running incredibly rich.

I used the Halfords metallic grey (vht) as I had it lying around, just with a clear coat on top. its fairly easy to paint with.

I did the same with my fan. My engine bay colours need redoing though.

What do you need help with mate?

Sounds good, maybe we'll catch up sometime next year.