Alic

Noisy lifters is a common problem. Sometimes an oil additive helps. Does it sound like this? [video=youtube_share;AtKlM_Jkf9E]

iirc 1992 and 1995 which is series 2 and series 4

This is my ride height. To be honest with you, it scrapes never but it bottoms out on 100% of speed bumps, so if my commute had speed bumps it would kill me to hear it scraping every day. On 265/35/18 (rear) btw

Anyone got any series 2 climate pod and ECU I can buy? While I got the dash out its much easier to put the climate ECU in. Thanks, Ali

I run 265 rears lowered no problem with the arches, it depends on your wheels offset.

Not recommended to daily but here we go. I have the brembo pads, and don't be tainted by the name, they are not track pads or anything special. Their description says 'OEM quality or better' which is exactly what they are, OEM pads nothing special and dont grab like a track pad would. Maybe good for daily driving though as a track pad might wear out faster? I don't know what to recommend rotor wise as I just have the brembo ones (once again just OEM) but I think AndrewG or Slick Pete can add some input as they have experience with brakes. With 18s, I would advise 35 profile tyres and if you can get as much width as you can on the rims. I use pirelli P-zeros but tyre technology has come along since they came out and they are better alternatives nowadays. For the cambelt, take it to Jimmer@PowerZed in Bristol. For Tuning take it to Greg@ProTuner in Coventry. Hope that helps. Other people can give you more specific recommendations for brakes and tyres.

Happy birthday mate.

Really good read that, also the engineering around the aerodynamics. It was effectively a forged engine from the factory. Quick search rb26 with gearbox is 330ish kg. VG with gearbox is 350. So yes although they are both iron blocks, the vg weights 40-50kg more, while only saving roughly 30kg with the gearbox.

Fair enough. The VG does sound good and has a good amount of torque for good power 'under the curve' instead of all up top. The weight is probably countered by the RB with all its 4 wheel drive system? That trans is chunky, though it will provide more grip.

Guys lets be honest here. None of you have done comprehensive comparisons of vg vs rbs, or single vs twin turbo set ups, so honestly its completely reasonable to search on the internet for information. It is well tested that a single is more efficient than a twin, for example see garrett's own website: https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/differences_between_turbos I'm not at all saying that we should all be converting our Zs to singles, the packaging just doesn't work compared to just slapping it on an exhaust manifold of an inline car. The point of my thread was the title. Whenever people talk about engine swapping a 90s JDM car, they always look to the rb26 and the 2jz as the top dogs, the thread was to point out that the VG may be on the same level to both if it didn't have the workability downsides.

To be fair, single turbos are more efficient than twins. The new technology can nearly eliminate lag with the split pulse exhaust housings.

That's what the link refers to. Pentroof, like for like but instead in the 750whp range (http://www.ooparts-international.co.jp/index/car/listbybrand/pentroof/record/).

Short answer, it doesnt matter which clutch pedal. The slave is the same for the turbo and non turbos, just make sure you get a master that matches. The shim is around 5mm Any reason you are using a turbo clutch and flywheel on an NA car?

Sparked from Tom's thread, I've realised a lot of people (i think) don't think of these engines as holding a lot of power. Of course someone can correct me on anything. I always think of these engines as vastly underrated. They can hold 550bhp stock bottom end 'reliably' (rb26 and 2jz realms) and sometimes stories of 900hp cars on stock bottom ends (which wouldnt last long), it has loads more torque than an rb to the same spec has (see: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/28207-vg30dett-vs-rb26dett/). VGs have cast iron blocks, which although heavy are incredibly strong and are nearly never the first things to break. In our world you can buy a TT engine for around £600. You're looking at £2000+ for an rb26/2jz? The only thing I can see is that these engines are a bitch to work on, engine pull to swap out turbos, being a V you need two turbos, two exhaust manifolds etc. The 2jz in pure stock form can of course handle more power because it has 440cc injectors, but the strength cannot be a million miles ahead of the VG30. I think the rb26 and the VG30 are very similarly well matched if not the VG is better as it has a higher displacement for more torque. Any thoughts guys? This is half a how strong the VG30 is stock, and half balls to the wall discussion. Remember the drag race record for a nissan car is held by the VG30.

Don't underestimate these engines

Excuse me mister. Put me on temporary mod to keep the peace

He doesn't want to drive it stock for 50000 miles. Next to no one would crack open a perfectly healthy engine just to rebuild it to stock, to forge it and prep for engine upgrades on the other hand is another thing altogether. Smoking engines after rebuild is just a bad rebuild. Think about it, an engine has to built at the start of its life and it will never smoke, a good engine builder will do an equal or better job to that. How long will a forged engine last? As long as a oem engine will, but forged engines are to be thrown boost and abuse at so it won't last as long in theory. That's my two cents anyway. Don't stroke the RB25 though, its a waste of money, get a superior engine.

You want PFR6B-11c

Has anyone got any front brake hardware including: 2x caliper pins 1xpin clip 1x spring retainer See pictures for what i need

I'm doing a parts run next week, can people let me know what parts they need and ill pick them up. Also for anyone else already asked for parts, best to remind me in case ive forgotton. I guess this is also a 'breaking' thread (the silver na lwb at the back is being broken) A load of boxes and stuff out of view.

Yeah, I read somewhere about it, compressed air in the intake is complicated due to metering air, and it can backpressure some intake air, so it's more efficient to shove it through the exhaust turbine and let the turbo do it's thing. Here: "Because it requires less air volume to spin a turbine wheel faster while exhaust volume builds than to shove air into the intake stream... Also that air would need to be metered... which adds more complexity."

Not sure why this is big news again, they announced it years ago. https://www.google.co.uk/amp/www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars/car-technology/news/amp27515/volvos-diesel-turbo-lag-solution-is-compressed-air/ Be interesting to see how it can affect performance cars rather than diesel trucks. I've found this done DIY and looks like it really could possibly be effective if you want to plumb it in.

Maybe this will help https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?183453-Upload-images-for-Non-Subscribed-members

Hi Jack, if you get a list in the next couple of days I can see what I can sort for you.

Very true, and with these cars approaching 30 years old its almost dangerous to attempt it with possible worn out bushings etc. Would be interesting to see what one would do though.