Alic

In my time on this forum I want to see this tested though :D Using calculations you get around 187mph, some have claimed they've done 190 but that's most likely pub talk.

I didn't find it lol! Theoretically all manual TT zeds should do over 180mph with a delimiter, calculated by gearing, rev limit and tyre size. I don't know if I would have the balls to do it though. With an na rear end you lose around 15mph off that. You can use a top speed calculator to work it out exactly.

180mph? No problem

Just the dusting over here

Very debatable lol. Useable for storage but not really for adults lol. Also worth noting that lots of the variants Tom lists are rare. Slicktops and swb cars are few and far between, and usually command higher prices. Manuals are also higher priced than their auto counterparts

Hi Daz. Yes there is a TT model characterised by the extra intercooler pipes in the engine bay, a different front bumper with airflow for intercoolers and a few other small things such as a boost gauge on 89-94 cars (and 99), 4 wheel steering, boosted clutch pedal etc. As a consequence the TTs are harder to work on and have now things to go wrong. There are some options, but on the whole the biggest difference is between the 'series' of car. Ranging from the trim of interior, to electric 4 wheel steering and some other things. See here: http://www.300zx.org.uk/model_variations.htm

Err well it was including labour as a mixture of doing it myself, and perhaps having a friend to help, but with the ATF sure it will be 5-8 times? Money is not the reason you would go for a recon-ed box, its reliability and piece of mind to ensure you can leave it in there and forget about it knowing it will probably work forever. Electric cars don't need gearboxes, so not an auto. F1 cars have purpose built race gearboxes which are inherently different from the workings of this one. Automatic gearbox technology from 30 years ago is so undeveloped compared to those of today. The auto gearboxes are often referred to as slushboxes, in that the torque converter steals engine speed so you don't get all of the engine output out (until higher rpms). The same technology of gearbox used in Toyota corollas was used in a $40000 sports car, it wasn't a special gearbox designed for a performance car. Also they are statistically less reliable than manuals with more complex parts. A lot of the argument for manual is a mixture of things, driving pleasure is only one of them. Correct me someone if I got anything wrong.

I couldn't say because I didn't really want an auto box. Cost effective? Probably not as I would have to go through 8-10 to match the price of a recon. But that's not the point, you don't want to keep breaking down, you want it to work and to know it will work and not leave you stranded and if it did you would have a new reconditioned box free. Overall for the standard person I would say don't buy any old auto box and expect it to work forever, buy a looked after low mileage one, that has proof of running perfectly, and hasn't been sitting around in a barn for 5 years, you are taking a gamble. I cant believe I just said that, I just offered an autobox to someone in another thread

Yeah I've been through 3 well within 24 months

You are right the NA has a different pivot due to having no booster so has more leverage.

I want to say brake pedal due to the placement of the sensor(s) and the curvature of the arm.

Generally I say don't attempt it unless you have a donor car by your side. You need to take some loom that is coupled with the body harness so can get messy if you don't have a reference. You will need to add the loom in the engine bay also which connects to the cruise computer.

In terms of colour, I got confused. The toyota colour which is matched to the original shade is 1G3. I always prefer cars with the tash.

You might be able to take out the selector and replace it with your one? Ive never tried.

Just take it out. The bearings always wear out and make a noise. Its one of the temperature sensors, there is another one so your ambient temp will still work. The front plate mount is a metal bracket, which usually go rusty. Mine is just held in by screws at the moment. If you take the bumper off, you can take the grill off and mask everything up properly and give it to a paint shop. The *1G3 is not the original colour, it was never metallic, but colour matched wise it's supposed to be the closest.

1. Yes, and not very. 2. From the downpipes yea 3. No idea

Happy birthday Gary

I generally prefer 18s, it gives a nice ratio of tyre to wheel and the tyre doesn't look too skinny. But some wheels do suit 19.

If it were me I would get 18s (or 19s), but it's your car :) Here's the album I did for Gary https://imgur.com/a/yllBi

I meant file name for the picture.

Says in the picture description brake loom connector

Maybe... I'll have a look next month. In the meantime, ask Baz he has lots of connectors.

JoelyP, AndrewG or FunkySi should be able to help

Not too big, you can go bigger than that. I am running this: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Varta-E38-Silver-Heavy-Duty-096-100-Car-Battery-12Volt-74AH-5-Year-Warranty-/252570661543 74Ah 750CCA

Bit of a drive from the south coast Jeff... I won't be around for any meets until after Christmas