Retro620ti

if you are getting code 34 then that is all the conzult or datascan will tell you, what you are really trying to find out is wether you are getting dett or not and that is a lot harder to diagnose, what most people do is fit a resistor in the wiring loom to the dett sensor to fool the ecu into thinking there isnt a problem, only drawback to this is if it was dett causing the issue then you just removed the cars way of protecting the engine, do a search on detonation and theres loads of info, the trim under the windows wont look good painted and youre best off getting either new trim or second hand good condition stuff from SWZ , i have sprayed the front window side trim satin black and it looks ok and im also going to do the targa top trims like this, as for 18's on a stock set , cant help ya there as mine is lowered and uprated

get the audi, te way weather is going here in the uk 4wd is gonna be a must soon

thats gonna sting

i took mine apart, it can be done , there is a car roll over safety feature built in which is a ball bearing sat in a cup , if the ball bearing moves even slightly out of this cup the seat belt behaves as you have described, i took the ball bearing out of mine and its fine, still locks and still retracts

blank it off if yours is a auto, probably someone fitted a manual balance bar and didnt have a clue what to do with the pipe

feel for you fella, hoping for only good news in this post in the future, take care and we are here to unload on so whenever you need to just do it

read this fully, it explains an awfull lot http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=100140&highlight=engine+rebuild

you have about twenty minutes of running in to get it right, there was a old thread here that explained it , but load it quickly to enable the rings to seal properly otherwise the rings will not seal properly

there are some absolute undiscovered gems in cornwall, and im not gonna tell ya about em simply because i want em to stay good

its shite this year, if the weather dont pic up this seasons fecked

its fine to put filters on the front pipes with or without the pump if you want to reduce crank gasses travelling in your intake when you are running on boost,when the pcv valves are open and the plenum is being used to crate vacuum in the crankcase the front pipes purpose is to allow a clean air flush as air from the intake is sucked down these just dont fit a catch can to the rear pipes as the vacuum created when the valves are open is needed to clear the crank through, if you do fit just a catch can the rocker covers end up getting a lot more of the crank gasses as i found out. heres the page from the manual which started on my experiments

I have been investigating a new crankcase breathing set up that removes the PCV valves and creates vacuum in the crankcase for better performance, this is what I have found out through experimentation and investigation. The Z has a fresh air purge for the crankcase via the front breather pipes, this will only happen when the PCV valves are open and creating enough vacuum in the crankcase to clear it through, when there isnt vacuum and the PCV valves are closed these front pipes re-route a small amount of blowby into the intake as the crankcase pressure has nowhere else to go.The front breather pipes can safely be connected to a breather filter and the connections on the intake closed off even on a standard system with no degradation of the breather system, the reason they are on the intake in the first place is for environmental reasons as its naughty to vent crank gasses to atmosphere. The vacuum created by the PCV valves is necessary so you cant just put a catch can on the feeds and close off the PCV valves and leave it at that, the vacuum is necessary because without it the rocker area of the cylinder heads becomes the only place for the crankcase pressure to go( not good) My solution to this is quite simple, I am fitting a electric vacuum pump on the crankcase PCV feeds ( from a ford cobra) which will run permanently to ensure a permanent vacuum ( only a small vacuum , not like the race vacuum pumps) , this pump will run via a catch can and will enable removal of the PCV valves. Hope this saves anyone else looking at this some investigation and even some experimentation.

there are a few cars running turbos at the rear of the exhaust systems now instead of in the engine bays, turned out the lag wasnt as bad as they thought it would be

just a thought but any chance of your egr valve being buggared , think you can unplug it to find out

not sure on that one fella, just run the gearbox diag , its easy

just fault codes, doesnt carry out gearbox diags though, just do the gearbox check if its a auto

sodomy again but on another note be carefull fella, I was having some aggro a while back in my old place , rather than open myself to aggro i got a few marine mates to sort it out for me rather than have my car turn into a target for them

its simple really and i often wonder why people are willing to believe in the mystical and not the mental capabilities, these people who believe they are mystic are in fact I believe are mind readers to a degree, they pick up what you know and return it to you, i dont even think they realise what they are doing and class it as mysticism....just my opinion

carry out a ecu diagnostic on it do a autobox diagnostic carry out a boost leak test change the lights over to hid if you plan on night driving do a 60k service fit a accurate boost and oil pressure gauge

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34524&d=1181659320

if the neutral switch isn't connected it will idle at 25 degrees timing rather than 15 degrees causing high idle, you can just earth pin 44 at the ecu if you want but connecting the neutral switch is the proper way to do it

lucky it wasnt rhd you mean